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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:21am PT
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The spam route on the hog.
Good.
Dig it up.
What up Sal? Long time.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 03:14am PT
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The Peanut Gallery at Donner Summit has some great friction climbing as well...
Cheers, Brian
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 11, 2011 - 03:25am PT
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I heard that spam route on the Hogsback was a total chosspile put up by a couple of Bay Area gym climber N00bs!
What up Mucci? We should climb.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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Yeah, dancing feet is not going to make the list:)
8 slab is fine by me...I can lead that simply. spam was no trouble, and better with bacon is certainly worthwhile. It is only the last pitch that suffers from degrading rock , but not too bad and last pitch is a fun pitch, rock aside. I was expecting worse gear, but small stoppers and tcu's were the ticket.
Little nukey was no 5.8, I have a hard time believing it is a 9. But as someone else said, its all there...I didn't like the idea of bailing mid 3rd pitch with one rope.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 11, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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Just like to add that I love justin's oxymoron "overhanging slab" in describing Power.
I've heard Sharma once describe a slab section on one of his limestone routes in Spain. You can bet it was overhanging slab, as he only climbs beyond vertical terrain.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Rat Ramp on Black Wall has some fun slab climbing as well.
Cheers, Brian
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 22, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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Thanks for the beta Justin, went there this weekend. Keep at it and go to Tollhouse Rock or the Cookie Sheet (below Yosemite Valley) in the winter.
Mosquitoes were still out a little bit, mostly in the warm of the evenings.
Had a great time climbing A Little Nukey with karodrinker -
The tricam pockets were so cool !
I wonder how all those holes formed ..
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 02:02am PT
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If memory serves on this route, tri-cams were pretty much all you got for a good long stretch- Power Dome's the only area I can remember where they're almost mandatory for a rack (nothing else will do).
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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The best place I ever found to practice slab is near Tahoe but it's not in any guide books and its kind of a secret still. 4 pitches of 5.5 to 5.hard in a very remote location, pm me for details, someone on here recently spied it on google earth and busted it out I don't want to do any more harm but it is what you need...I am talking about 50 foot plus run outs on beautiful 5.7 slab and nothing else, pitch after pitch of it...
The hogs back is good for a few short sections of what I am talking about.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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It's been a long time since I've climbed in stiff shoes. But when I went to softer shoes, I thought it made slabs easier. For pure on edging, I prefer the ball/side of my foot and don't find that much difference. For smedging, yea, your toes take the strain (soft shoes require stronger foot muscles all around). But I like being able to curl my toes in order to "grip" the smedge. Can't do that with stiffies. Less feedback when you are going to butter off, but each to their own.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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Any thoughts on tricam sizes?
It looks like a 2.0 purple in the previous pic.
If I go and buy some, what sizes should I get?
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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I brought black, pink, red, brown and purple (0.25 - 2.0) on this route, and used most of them. Just bought the black one last week .. would have come in handy on Black Widow's second pitch up in Tuolumne a few weeks ago.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
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This weekend, I went back and climbed a little nukey (the impetus for this thread) a year later. Not really a big deal actually. It made me feel foolish for how psyched out I was last year. The hardest part was getting to the first or second bolt.
Great climb though. Certainly the best slab climb I have done. It is a new favorite for sure.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Pebble in the sky at Grouse Slabs.
Don't f*#k up the crux.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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A bolt was added with permission on pebble. I liked it without it but a friend got hurt. Danger gone now.....
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Well, that sucks.
That was a great move, a new bolt would just dumb it down.
I spent ten minutes climbing up to, and then back down from, that move.
Someone needs to chop that bolt. I would, but I'm in NH
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Congrats on Little Nukey! Gotta feel good to succeed after a long hiatus.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Hogsback. To the right of knapsack you can set a TR on the tree and climb the blank face. Try to make it as hard as you can. Maybe 5.9?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Sorry Brandon...But living in New Hamster probably a worse fate. Yay justin01. It gets easier doesn't it? But you must keep up the practice to stay good dialed in. The slab climbing at Rainbow (at big bend) is some of the best slab climbing anywhere. And you can stop and have a cup of great french onion soup and a beer at the lodge after you climb there. It stays warm there well into October and is a beautiful little spot. A couple of great 5.9's there.....
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