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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Maybe Hennek can give us the real story behind that cover photo of Tompkins?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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That shot is iconic...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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As is this one from Climbing #2 July 1970.
Frost photo.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 23, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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There's one thing about ice climbing.
It's cold.
It never goes away. Feet, fingers, and toes freeze.
Why are we so stupid and love to suffer like this?
It must be a fools paradise .......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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There are many which is why the universe is top heavy>>>>~
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Dec 23, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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There's one thing about ice climbing.
It's cold.
It never goes away. Feet, fingers, and toes freeze.
Why are we so stupid and love to suffer like this?
It must be a fools paradise .......
Stupid Werner. :)
Excellent thread Steve. I remember being stoked by these articles.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 23, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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now we're getting somewhere
with global warming, ice climbing is becoming the most-valued climbing experience one can have, in my opinion. I don't know that there's going to be "ice climbing" in 20 years, much less 50.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 23, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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Hennek-possible you could enlighten us as to the "real" story behind the Tompkins photo? You were there, we have been told.
Not sure if your name is spelled with a c or not? Is it Henneck?
Or, is it another scenario like when I used to spell Amborn with an e ,ie, Amborne and one day, he told me in a friendly, mates kind-of-way, It's Amborn, without an e, as#@&%e. Just askin.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 23, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Doug Robinson got short shrift over Chounard's "Climbing Ice" book. He wrote a lot of it and is only mentioned in the thank you's.
90% of that stuff was crap in that book. Get off yer ass, kick in your front points, and don't waste time learning a lot of ways to climb 50 degree ice.
edit: Werner is right. Ice climbing in New Hampshire was one of the most miserable experiences of my life.
Soloing around June Lake was a lot of fun, though. I did the Lachenal Direct route on the Triolet in the Argentiere Glacier. 30 pitches of it will wear your ass out.
I have a bunch of newly found old pictures from some of those routes. They are all 50mb scans. Does anyone know of a good freebe photo editor on CNET?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 23, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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I disagree with the 90% comment above, even though that poster ranks consistently among the very best here.
the real genius of the book is that if taken to heart, one can move quickly up all kinds of alpine terrain -- i.e. can move fast in Big Hills -- without burning out calves with gratuitous front-pointing or piolet traction.
a single ax and flexible ankles go a long way toward hiking the big routes
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 23, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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Yeah, maybe 90% was too much.
I still say that if it is ICE, get on your frontpoints and run. Today's gear is just very good. Snow is different. You need to learn how to do snow so that you are in a good position to self arrest. Allan Bard and DR taught me that.
edit: I just looked at an old pic of a very long ice route on the argentiere basin. It was pretty steep and I am resting with right foot in on front points and left foot sideways on a knob.
Just use common sense. It ain't brain surgery.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Dec 23, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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And the friction coefficient of wool on ice.
Not so slippery when you wear wool.
Got my first ice at Lincoln Falls Colorado.
All I can do is dream of ice climbing. When The Columbia River Gorge comes in we climb around the clock as it is out, as soon as it comes in. Got to get it fast.
Been working hard for my Montana trip this year. No ice in The Gorge. Got to travel. Well worth it.
Thanks for keeping the stoke alive Steve!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
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Spend your last Jackson on a pair of Dachstein Mitts and step on out!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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just came back from an afternoon session of ice bouldering on the local drips. I had forgotten how absorbing it is to break things down and focus on the various tasks that, taken all together, constitute ice climbing.
For instance, I spent at least an hour focusing on getting the best feet I could possibly get. Sound boring? Hardly. The time flew by. And after an hour I felt that I had a pretty good handle on recognizing bad feet from marginal feet to good feet.
In the past I chicken-scratched up ice climbs, even "hard" climbs without much thought to feet or to anything else really. That changed today, and I'm really excited for the season to begin in earnest
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turd
climber
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Dachstein Mitts
Oh, wow. You just brought back some memories there.
That boiled wool was unbelievable. And they'd stick to the ice if you broke a tool!
You nailed it when you said those pictures are iconic. Now I'm going to have to dig out my copy of Climbing Ice and my Albi Sole guidebook. :)
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 22, 2013 - 09:52am PT
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bump
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Aug 10, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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It snowed last night :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Freezin' real good around here this morning. I have been restoring an old Stubai Aschenbrenner axe for Mike Sherrick so I got the Tool Jones going early. Tough to get that last bit of tarnish to leave.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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Nice find, Ed.
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