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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 21, 2006 - 02:02pm PT
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Werner, I have either “people” or the “national inquirer” signed up for you.
Tuesday next week, don’t hide from it. they’re talking about a cover piece too
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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National Enquirer be the one ........
Local alien reveals all ........
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Feb 21, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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Tarbuster, ain't got a clue who you might be, met a few folks through the Vato, give me a clue or make it e.z. and tell me who's ya!
Peace
say hi to Mikey if you still see him
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 21, 2006 - 03:26pm PT
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Ron,
Roy McClenahan here-
check your email
cheers
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 03:56pm PT
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Here's just about the only Charles Cole photo I have from Them Days:
Taken from Mountain 65, Jan/Feb 1979, it also included the following writeup:
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At Suicide Rock some older ascents as yet unreported include the 5.11 Direct Finish to Season's End by Erick Erickson and Fred Zeal; it involves face climbing on some very small edges. Erickson has also established some free climbs on the South Face, for years the unclimbed challenge; no details are immediately available.
At Tahquitz, Jim Wilson and Pete Wilkinie climbed Ziggy Stardust (5.10c), a fistjamming traverse which takes some good crack climbing in the Royal's Arch/Bat Crack area. Mike Waugh, who made the free ascent of Magical Mystery Tour reprinted in Mountain 64, led what was possibly the 5th ascent of The Edge, infamous for its long runouts.
More recent developments atSuicide include Caliente (5.11) by John Bachar and Rick Accomazzo. This long standing face-climbing problem ranks as one of the most difficult of its kind in the area.
Small Affairis a previously unreported 5.9on the south side of Eagle Pinnacle, climbed by Mike Graham and Bill Antel; now Small Affair Direct has been added by John Long and Accomazzo. The Direct is rated 5.8, and both routes are said to be very enjoyable. Erickson and Accomazzo have freed The Reach (5.11), a steep Tahquitz classic.
John Long, Rob Muir and Mike Macklinski (sic) made the first free ascent of The Hangover (5.12); the difficulty is compared to that of a Colorado B1 standard. Long also freed Frightful Fright (5.11), doing some hard thin crack-climbing to bypass the old aid section.
Flying Circus (5.11, A4), by Rob Muir and Accomazzo (AND Charles Cole), lies on the overhanging blank bulge right of the Green Arch. The first pitch involves both 5.11 free climbing and very difficult aid climbing. The aid goes from bolts to a RURP, now fixed, to several consecutive hook moves; it is said that only hooks will be needed to repeat this section. After the aid, more 5.11 climbing leads to the belay. The second pitch has been dubbed the "Muir Trail". It involves some very sustained, very run-out free climbing directly off the belay. The first ascent required many long falls. Unrepeated, the climb is among the most formidable on Tahquitz. (See photos.)
Correspondents: Hawkins, Hildenbrand, Leavitt, Lewis, van Bruggen, Williams
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A few other names there... Why haven't we heard from Waugh, yet? Gibo? And where's Wild Jim?
And we'd still like to find the a##holes who chopped our fixed line that we left hanging from the first belay on Flying Circus, while it was still a project! ...came back the next weekend to find that the 9 mil was chopped about six feet from the ground, and the wind had blown it up onto a flake WAY HIGH up. Took us a LONG time to hook and free that jumar line... Bastards! ;o)
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
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Shouldn't be too hard to guess this action figure:
Photo by: Robs John Muir ©1978. (All rights reserved, Largo!)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 04:55pm PT
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cool pants...
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
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Hey Robs, hows come Accomazzo looks to have three arms in
the pic ? WHF ? I never noticed before.
Oh, and thanks for the time that I bivied in the yard of
your cabin with Mr. Chicken & family.
Don't ask, don't tell.
-Bart
RE: Autopilot. We always figured it was named that cause you
would be unable to avoid a nose dive onto the road if you popped.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 05:07pm PT
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Hey, Bart. Are you seeing our old orange and blue boltkit bag (on a sling), maybe? If not, I can recommend a good optometrist... ;-p (Or a better class of drugs.)
Really. He doesn't have three arms. We have witnesses.
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Murf
climber
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Feb 21, 2006 - 05:11pm PT
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RE: Molar 5.10.. I think the route refered to was the route on the left side of the corridor, where JB ends up on the jump. The name escapes me.
RE: the second can't say piccy. Cool shot of More Monkey! JB is facing the opposite the way I've seen most do it.
The stories are fantastic, keep 'em coming.
Murf
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 21, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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In the hope of stimulating your little gray cells and getting a few more stories, I will throw out a couple of route names with Stonemaster legends attached that loomed large for me back in the day. Void, at the Cookie (?) was supposed to have a baffling crux, but Mike and Tobin (?) solved it early on. Dynamo Hum, behind Camp 4. The Calf, on the Apron. And my favorite, Piece of Grass on Pywiack, a long pitch past only four bolts out of a hole with a tree that makes Golden Bars seem like a sport climb.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 21, 2006 - 06:43pm PT
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now we're back on track!
but before I get back in the wings:
Mr Waugh(The Gran Wazoo I think) last seen performing one arm mantles for the ladies at Stony Point.
Eric Erickson(E) is actually too busy climbing to post.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 21, 2006 - 06:48pm PT
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Yikes, Ricky! Nice air ball. I always knew that third arm gave you an edge for the face routes!
Boy John, you’re digging them up. I don’t remember Void being too baffling but Piece of grass is familiar think I might have had something to do with that one? my grey cells may be gone in that section I will defer that to others involved.
A great one on the cookie you missed was something I did with Largo. The original Valley boys had the Nabisco wall pretty sewn up with Henry Barber's help anyway. But JL had one last line eye balled a little variation off butter fingers. We called it “Lady Fingers” a tasty route!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2006 - 07:00pm PT
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ho man.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
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hoooo maaaan. (note the low-cut e.b's, an innovation 10 years ahead of their time). extra style points awarded for the camel dimp.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 07:29pm PT
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Name this ancient outdoor gym route...
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 21, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
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Up thread, Gramicci made some off-handed comment about "Rebolting"...
Man, I can barely remember that, Mike! Refresh my memory. I vaguely recall doing a very early ascent, fairly soon after Bender and company did it. Hard it was! And a really high step on the crux, right? Surprised to see that Vogel's got it rated 11b--thought it was 10+. And, now, I remember that WE did that. Like honeybees back returning to the hive, I now remember "dancing" those moves along with you, for the guys back at the 'Mart.
I think it was when we were doing "Rebolting Development", that my (then) girl friend's ex-boyfriend (from Huntington Beach) wandered below the base. You and I were up at the first belay, and this guy has the cheek to ask if we'd cast down a top-rope for him. Turns out he was blazing on acid, if I remember correctly... Did most of the moves, he did, but I don't think that he could crank to crux.
Whew.
Hey, anybody else remember the MASSIVE hacky-sack sessions in Humber? Fifteen-, twenty-strong! Group hacks. Impolite to serve to yourself! Counting the number of hacks before the bag hit the ground... The loneliness of the long-distance hack!
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 21, 2006 - 09:22pm PT
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Nice shot of JL on the Ripper
The off handed remark was referring to another hellaceous bender route. you took a wiper in the second pitch like Ricky’s above. I also remember your girl friend floating up the first pitch.
5.10+ used to encompass a broad range. Before Bridwells letter grade pretty much made it obsolete. Its interesting the way the grades expanded to fill the same space. IMO
I challenge that there are not many of these floating around. This is a wilts supplement with the forward dated 1965 it’s twelve pages note the 5.10+ routes listed. The aid is even graded like 6.7 for hard class 6 .
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2006 - 10:28pm PT
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i've got a 1962 issue of "summit" magazine with an article on recent developments on tahquitz, including pics of kamps on the f.a. of blankity blank. maybe i should scan 'em. i've also got the mountain magazine that reports caliente as a, uh, "5.11"...5.11??? mmmkay. yeah, sure, 5.11, yeah sure that's it!
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 21, 2006 - 10:33pm PT
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Damm, that has got to be a jewel! Kamps on blanketty blank
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