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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Mussyhooks last a lot longer and allow the anchor point to remain intact. I asked Tony Puppo about it a while back and the conventional shuts on popular routes were getting abraded into unreliable nothingness.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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For high-grit places like the Owens River Gorge, somebody needs to introduce a replaceable brass pulley bushing into the coldshut setup to cut down the direct friction from the rope.
Here's an interesting anchor solution at Moore's Wall in North Carolina:
As I recall, the pull was pretty smooth...
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SeanH
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I don't get why you'd ever ever TR through fixed hardware. Setting up a tr using your own gear when there's good hardware is about as easy as it gets.
I know climbing's supposed to be every-man for themselves, figure it out, etc. But honestly, between stuff like TRing on fixed gear, all the rappelling accidents that are happening, probably other similar easy to correct behavior, I almost feel like there really should be some sort of "basics of actually climbing outside" certification similar to AMGA for guiding.
And no, it wouldn't be about requiring people to have the certification to do the activity, but for instance, most people I know that backcountry ski make sure to get AIARE level 1 and I think prefer to do the activity with other people that have it (so they have some bit of confidence the person they're with isn't a liability/can dig them out). My thinking is, if the "standard" accepted class/certification existed, at least there'd be some percentage of people that feel inclined to get it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, Brian - those anchors from North Carolina are interesting. The two bolts in each seem overly close together,given that the UIAA/CE recommendation is to space belay anchors 20 cm apart, in good rock.
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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we bent a fixe super shut once while f*#king around in my old gym. it was after hours and the staff was getting a little session in on the lead wall. someone took a swinging fall while toproping off of the shuts. obviously they're meant for lowering not toproping, but CE or not, they were pretty easy to bend.
p.s. it was a pretty big swing. ok maybe more of a rope jump.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 08:45am PT
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The application of hard surfacing rod is a solution/fix to much of the wear problems seen that results from abrasive material sanding the metal. Hard surfacing metal is also touted as being highly corrosive resistant. I have applied Alcam 95 to these shuts--hardness is RC 62 or 329,000psi.
http://www.alcaminc.com/hard-surfacing.html
For Rockwell table see:http://www.woodcousa.com/conv_chart.htm
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 09:40am PT
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Mighty Hiker,
given that the UIAA/CE recommendation is to space belay anchors 20 cm apart, in good rock.
It seems you rule followers preach often but know very little about what is adequate spacing in good rock.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I don't get why you'd ever ever TR through fixed hardware. Setting up a tr using your own gear when there's good hardware is about as easy as it gets.
I've repeatedly seen people at sport crags actually get pissed off when they were told that TRing on the anchor was bad form. They don't give a crap that it costs someone effort and time and money, they just want the convenience like in the gym.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 10:30am PT
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Gear? Vee dunt use no stin'ken geer.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Too bad they didn't use a SS Quick Link to compliment the rest of the SS set-up.
My bet is that non-stainless rapide was added as an after thought by someone who didn't want to trust just the pulley spindle.
It's spacing is a bit of a concern (cone of weakness with bolt length). Beautiful anchor, though. Full stainless (not counting that rapide) and well done (excepting the bolt spacing concern). Pretty full rope length rappel and the pull was buttery smooth.
I've always wondered if a little roller sleeve on a Fixe hook or clip and lower type anchor would work.
Kind of why I like the vertically arranged chain anchors that end in a single ring, though. You don't see folks wantin' to TR off them much.
And, yeah, Greg, folks TR off fixed gear all the time. I do too. When I'm out with my new climbing folks, I'll admit I hate to get that extra lap to clean the gear and I don't want to trust that they'll re-rig a tie in through the anchor. Easier to just lower them directly through, pull the rope, go to the next gig. Its just a given.
Given the easy option, most folks will clip and go...
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