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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Jul 10, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Bowman and the Emeralds were removed from the new North Tahoe / Reno / Carson City region guidebook because the book was already to large (1,300 routes)and I did not have time to finish that part, especially with all the new stuff going in there. Those areas are being included in the new guide to Northeastern California coming out next year. (see the camp4press.com website under the "upcoming projects" page for more info.) The Emeralds/Bowman is the last part of this guidebook that we will be working on. This book will be a completely comprehensive guidebook just like the new North Tahoe guidebook. I plan on being there most of this fall finishing it up. Any new route info can be sent to us from the camp4press website on the "feedback" page. Thanks.
John Jackson
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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Blue,
I forgot to mention the topper......deep water soloing!
UNHOLY!!!!!!11!!!!
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Jul 10, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
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Grew up in Nevada City, age 1-20,swimming in the clear waters of the Yuba River and jumping off the cliffs into the Emeralds are some of my best life memories. Spent hundreds of days having fun in the different forks of the Yuba River. Climb in the morning and evening, spend the hot part of the day jumping into the Emeralds, ahhhhh......blissful. Now I get to share this wonderful place with my kids, (who are 12 and 20)a cool place indeed!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 10, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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way cool, I love this area and all the more reason to visit again. Mike, I too still use your guide as THE guide to the area. I'll buy any and all updates produced though. I love the drooling late nights pouring over what to or what I did climb.
Marc
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
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bump
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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Mike and Josh,
We saw you guys out there today. Thanks for giving me the verbal tour of the area. Bowman Lake rocks!! I hope to check out the new moderates at the Emeralds soon. Got a couple sends in at Candyland, and the swimming was great!
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Wildmotor
climber
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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fyi Tahoe locals: the new North Lake guide (John Jackson's book) is available at Alpenglow in Tahoe City as of today.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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Steve,
Nice job on that overhanging bouldering wall/traverse. You guys really buffed out the base. Looks like you brought in a grader!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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Killer K - you bet. Also check out the Fun House wall which is just up from where you parked. Cheers, M
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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I/m still trying to rally somebody to drive up there with me this weekend. I like rolling with a co-pilot out of the bay on long drives (and back home when I'm exhausted).
Is the camping pretty easy to obtain? For Bowman. Are there car-camping spots around if the tent stuff is full? Is it BLM land? Can I target-shoot legally off the main trails (not important, just curious)? Anybody have topos? What is the best moderate crag, in the 5.6 to 5.10 range? How would I find it?
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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Take Hwy. 20 exit off I-80 and drive toward Nevada City several miles. Just before the bottom of the hill, turn right on Bowman Lake Rd (last 3 miles pavement ends - 2WD fine) about 12.5 miles to Bowman Valley.
Should be nice this weekend - cool. Best camping is in the valley along side the road instead of the lake. It is unregulated so you can car camp just about anywhere. Try the Candy Land/Cove area: park in the right side pullout at the "S" turn after the descent from Windy Point (about 12.5/13 miles down Bowman Rd off Hwy 20). Where the water flume exits the slabs there are a couple fun bolted routes both 5.8ish. The left route is long and you'll need a second rope to lower/rap off.
A couple hundred yards left of those routes is Candy Land. The 2 bolted routes on the big boulder are 5.10+ and the crack is 5.8. Just to the right of the big boulder is a black and white streaked wall = Candy Land ( 6 bolted routes/fun climbing): .5, .7, .8, .9, .10, .9. At mile 13.5 just before the bridge is the Larry Land pullout. A couple hundred feet up hill through the trees is the Fun House with 7 bolted routes (easy access to top via left side): .7-.10 (left to right). If you walk up the dry river bed from the bridge toward the dam (5 mins) you'll find Larry Land (good swimming up at the lake). Most of the routes start at 5.11 but are well bolted. The 3 routes on right side of wall are 5.10 but were wet last weekend. There's a bunch of stuff around the valley but those areas are the easiest to describe and should keep you busy for a couple days. We may be out there so give us a holler and we'll tour ya around. Cheers, M
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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Thanks for the beta, Carville!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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Hey Steve, I assume you you're probably out this weekend. I have intentions of getting up there Friday evening and climbing Saturday.
Congratulations on your kid! You will likely have you hands full, along with with your wife. I'll be back and we can climb again. Probably better to hang with her as the little ones tend to wake up every couple of hours for chow and you wife will need your assistance. I understand completely. Trust me.
But Seth may be in the area, so I may hook up with him. And Carville gave us good beta to get us started in the area. If any other locals wanna hang let me know.
This is all tentative pending a call from a buddy who wants to redo Fresno Dome.
Congratulations Steve! Boy or girl?
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Jul 12, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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Wish I could join you guys.....really. You are right that I'll have my hands full with the baby.
I expect a full trip report.
If you get up to the lake for a swim check out the cliff about 50 yards out. There are overhangs there over very deep water....up to ~30 feet tall. Further out about 200 yards to the island is a cliff band on the right side ~50 feet tall. We paddled out on inner tubes a handful of times last Summer....had a blast! Beware the water is cold....inspiration to make it to the top.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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Candy Land - Bowman Valley.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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Looks good, Mike. I have a meeting that I have to attend at work on Friday and may not make it. I was hoping to bail work early and come up Friday night, but it may not happen.
I do appreciate you beta though and will be up there this summer!
Seth is camped out at Indian Springs apparently. FWIW.
Thanks, Mike.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 01:54am PT
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You bet. Simeon on Predator .11d. The Cove, Bowman Valley.
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dourbalistar
Boulder climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 15, 2011 - 06:04am PT
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Hey Mike - Thanks for all the beta and photos. My wife and I plan to head up to the area this weekend and will probably check out some of the moderates at Candy Land and maybe Fun House. Besides the long 5.8 route you mentioned upthread, should a rack of a dozen or so draws and a 60m rope get you up and down most routes? Hope we can cross paths this weekend.
Cheers,
-ben.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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Hey Ben,
12 draws will be fine. The only route that is longer than a 1/2 a 60 meter rope is the left most route at the Cove which is a couple hundreds yards right of Candy Land. That route is the first one above where the water flume exists the slabs (left edge of Cove). Everything else is an easy off with a 60 meter rope. There are very few crack climbs out there so almost everything is bolted with chain anchors.
I should be out there Saturday - look for a tan GMC Yukon with a box on the roof.
Cheers, M
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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New Crag at the Emeralds. The Bear's Lair - short & steep. Cheers, M
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