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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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"French Freeing" is cute and sexy.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
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Use it. I think it's an accepted term but if you're really worried I'd also look into usage of the following as well:
American death triangle (offends americans? Hmmm...not)
jugging (sexual innuendo?)
deadman anchor (OBviously insensitive)
Short roping (perhaps use "length challenged")
Aiders (the medical community will take exception)
and of course the Singapore Sling...uh, is that a climbing term?
I'm SURE there's more.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
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Beaking on a Deadhead? Ow!
Use it. Everyone knows what it means.
Knowing the origins of this term might make you feel better- maybe you should swap some of those guidebooks for an OED and figure out when the first (printed)usage was. I bet there's a reason it's not called 'Zulu free'-- seems like the French came late to the free-climbing party. Obviously, they've more than made up for this by now.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:31pm PT
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Chris,
Go spend three weeks in Paris.
After that you will know what to do.
Juanito
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:36pm PT
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Everyone knows what "french free" means, but if you don't want to piss someone off or pretend that it was not used for the last 30 +/- years, then "yard on some gear" gets the same point across.
N'est pas?
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
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The type of climbing you're trying to label is key to how you climb fast. In fact, I'd go so far as to say it pretty much defines your style of climbing. You pull on gear when you have to if it means you'll go faster. You use your hand and feet on natural features when it offers faster progress. It seems simple enough and it may not be revolutionary but a lot of people(myself included) tend to get bogged down in an extremely methodical approach to aid climbing where in the process of moving from step to step, piece to piece you forget to look around and take advantage of what the route offers. Your style of aid climbing relies on a much more fluid and dynamic style of movement. When you're pulling on gear or moving from one aider step to another your body is moving like a free climber would move. Rather than try and sum it up with a single word like "french free" I would carve out space in the script for a more lengthy explanation what you're talking about. Give video examples. Perhaps call it "dynamic aid climbing".
Take it for what its worth. That’s what I’ve learned from climbing with you.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Feb 10, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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I hooked the "DEADHEAD" and Stuck my "PECKER" in.
David. French Freeing and A0 is when you are pulling on gear with no aiders to get to a higher better hold or a higher better placement to do it again. You would do this for two reasons. One reason to go faster. Second Reason, You are up high on a Free route and cant free the section so you pull through it. 3rd reason, You are just plain lazy and have no ethics what so ever.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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Tomtom is right. A0, it's that simple.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:04pm PT
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I don't remember saying that I don't know what "french fee" means. My point was that instead of focusing on the term "french free" as most know it that it might be helpful for him to speak to his general style of climbing and avoid the term all together. I think that what he is talking about goes a bit beyond the typical accepted definition of "french fee". Just one guys opinion and I suppose not really what he was asking for in the first place so my bad.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:08pm PT
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I disagree with the "A0" characterization. While functionally equivalent from a "weighting a piece" perspective, the means and reason for doing so are different to the point where "A0" (with aiders) and French freeing are radically different tactics and a distinction should be made between them.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
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Damn internet...It's so easy to miscommunicate on here. I need to start cuting and pasting.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:15pm PT
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"I disagree with the "A0" characterization. While functionally equivalent from a "weighting a piece" perspective, the means and reason for doing so are different to the point where "A0" (with aiders) and French freeing are radically different tactics and a distinction should be made between them"
When u use aiders on "A0" then it's "A1". I always thought A0 was pulling on pro and using your feet to gain progress. AS the same as French freeing. When you repeatedly pull on gear over and over again, that would be Crack Jugging with pro. What's worth.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
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"Yarding" on gear
"grab and go"
AO (commonly understood, i think?)
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tofu turkey
Social climber
Rancho Relaxo
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:33pm PT
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French Free Climbing is no more offensive than, say, dating teenage girls when your pushing 30. Go for it!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:49pm PT
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^^i love it when people push the personal crusades down everyone's throats. must make them feel better
back to the topic at hand, i think "pulling on gear" or A0 are good choices.
if we keep associateing nationalities with styles, nailing could soon become "'Merican aid: beat the sh1t out of everything within reach, as long as it makes you feel safer"
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Feb 10, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
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If your guides are going to get translated, make sure yarding on gear does not become metering on gear.
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Chris W
Social climber
Eldo
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Feb 10, 2006 - 04:06pm PT
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Tofu, My Girlfriend is 25 leave me alone. Besides, I am a late bloomer.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Feb 10, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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It is climbing, have fun with it! A term like that being offensive, am I even living in the same world as you are??? Obviously I'm not...
French Fries = Freedom Fries, holy hell what are you talking about?!?! I've never heard that before! I don't even get it but must be on the news or something.
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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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Feb 10, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
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I think "french free" is an archaic term that should be replaced by something more descriptive, especially in print.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Feb 10, 2006 - 05:41pm PT
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IMHO, "French Free" is no more offensive then "American Death Triangle."
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