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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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Oh man drilling on lead with a power drill. That sounds awesome but something I can only imagine. Sometimes I wish you could still do that here in the valley with a special permit. Its pretty hard to hand drill anything harder than 5.11 while still climbing totally free.
I checked out Burden of Dreams awhile back. I think I also fell off the end of the hard pitch.
Bob I'm working on another route that is going to be right up your alley...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Here is a view of the general area of Slab Happy, showing all the other lines as well. On the left is the East Buttress of El Cap and some of the SE face. Note that on the extreme right is the East Ledges descent route.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nice photo Peter!
Golden Years starts in the washed out part of the photo in the lower right and heads up
into that alcove type thing where the black water streak comes down. The Black Pitch
climbs out of the alcove up the water streak.
Gotta get up on Slab Happy!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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God, Kelly. That Black Pitch must be just incredible.
Sorry the photo isn't any better. Next opportunity, I'll get a proper shot and post it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here are a couple from xRez:
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Here is an even closer shot from xrez that Clint shows:
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html
My screenshot from there is:
It gives you an awesome view of the Golden Years (Kelly, Tom, et al route) and those other possibilities too.
Some people have trouble with this xrez site. Get there and keep zooming in and right away little rectangular images appear next to the camera scope locations indicated on the topo map. Drag the screen image around with your cursor to centralize the desired image and keep zooming. It will fill you screen, but keep zooming as the resolution is just ridiculous. You sometimes can even see bolts, holds etc. not to mention actual climbers.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I don't have a guide book with me. What goes up the awesome looking orange rock right of Slab Happy? Really some of the trippiest rock in the Valley. I see a butterfly and ... .
I'm talking about the right side of my cut an paste of Peter's last photo.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The Big Juan and Golden Years climb the face right of Slab Happy.
Never Say Dog starts on The Dihardral and climbs the face above it.
Slab Happy
1103. The Silent Freeway 5.10c *
1104. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Left 5.11a *, 4p, M
1105. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Free var. 5.10b *, 3p, M, L at 2nd bolt
1106. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Original 5.9 A4, 3p, Ro, M, R at 2nd bolt
1107. The Happy Ending 5.11a *, 2p
1108. The Dihardral 5.10c *, 4p
1109. Never Say Dog 5.11b **, 6p
1110. The Big Juan 5.12b **, 5p
1111. Golden Years 5.12a A0? **, 8p, hold broke and is no longer free (but see this thread - freed at V8/9 on the old left bolts)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here's an attempt at a photo overlay, using Peter's screenshot from xRez.
Maybe Kelly can correct this?
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 17, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
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I've done the Big Juan ....
Killer route.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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Just wanted to bump this thread. Posts like this are the best part of Supertopo. I would have never known to go check out this route otherwise.
I spent this past weekend working on the route. The rock is incredible and I am amazed that the First Ascentionists found a weakness up such a huge wall. Most of the climbing is pretty reasonable except for about 10-15 feet of hard climbing on each of the first five pitches. I'm still blown away that Mikey and Kate managed to magic their way across the starting traverse of pitch three. It is BLANK!! If you monkey across the first three bolts the rest of the pitch climbs at 12a or so.
Also for reference you can top out the route and descend the east ledges if you want. The final pitch is not shown in the Reid guide. You will need to build a gear belay after the 9th pitch.
All other anchors are equipped with solid hardware setup for rappeling. I've never seen such large smash-links before. Thanks!
I also re-marked the final belays in this photo. Clints photo above nails the first five pitches, but the next few are a little lower than in reality.
I also added beta on MountainProject if anyone is interested.
Enjoy!
 Luke
PS If i didn't get it across this is an unbelievably good route. The only thing that rivals it's quality is the difficult. It is NAILS hard!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
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Thanks for the story and updated overlay and topo, Luke!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 18, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Very cool thread, pics & stories.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Photos Bump!
Looking up at the Crux pitch
Rad knobs on Pitch six
Luke
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 11, 2015 - 10:02pm PT
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bump for a new route on my list, a new reason to keep working on getting stronger. Look sssssick!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 11, 2015 - 11:40pm PT
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big Juan looks good indeed
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 12, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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Wow Luke, Great photo. Thanks for that, sure brings back some memories.
I also added some FA notes to the Mountain Project page. Originally, we named each pitch when we sent the topo in for inclusion in the guide, but that sheet promptly got lost. We remembered a couple of pitch names, my favorite being The Black Pitch.
Too fun...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Bump for knobs and rugosities of all types.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nice! Thanks for the bump. My nads are not big enough.
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