some wall shots from back in the day, got any to share?

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mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 12:55am PT

mark i just had to tell you this story about walt shipley on the first solo ascent of the N.A.. i had just lead the big roof a couple weeks before walt went up there and he was on the next ascent. i had gone out almost to the lip and there was a medium sized loose flake in the middle of the sorta wide section that goes out the roof. unable to come up with any other solution i decided to put a 3" cam on either side of flake and squeeze it together to hold it briefly while i could move past, which was successful!
walt went up there on the next ascent and when he told me the story he said
"well dan was just up here so it cant be so bad" , and proceeded to take a 25 footer out of there and the flake flew to the base! and then he proceeded to finish a proud first solo of n.a.
(i sure miss that guy),
one hell of a model american
(Knot!)
btw i would think following that roof would even be more exciting!

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 01:06am PT

Fish_Products

Big Wall climber

FishProducts.com

Mar 18, 2011 - 01:09am PT

Erik Erikson on Native Son, 92?

Erik Erikson, Aquarian, 83?

Doug McDonald, Dihedral/Horse Chute, 85?

Russ Walling, Dihedral/Horse Chute, 85?

Russ Walling, Lurking Fear 82?

Russ Walling, Hockey Night in Canada, off route? 85?

Doug McDonald, Sickle Ledge, 86?

Ed Sampson and Doug McDonald, Bismark Ledge, Mescalito, 85?

Russ Walling and Mattias the German, Lurking Fear, 82?

Ed Sampson, Mescalito, 85?

John "Yabo" Yablonski, NA Wall, 84?

Russ Walling, Dawn Wall, 92?

Russ Walling, Dawn Wall, Wino Tower, 92

Erik Erikson, Native Son, 92

Dagwood Trumbo, Wino Tower, Dawn Wall, 92

Russ Walling, Mescalito, 85?

See us on the web at:
http://www.FishProducts.com
http://fishproductsblog.blogspot.com/

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 05:41pm PT

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Mar 18, 2011 - 11:19pm PT

Russ--was that a bottle of THUNDERBIRD?????????

EWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!

Thanks for the shots!!!!!

Ken

Trad climber

Arroyo Grande

Mar 19, 2011 - 01:10am PT

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2011 - 01:09pm PT

Russ Walling

Gym climber

Poofter's Froth, Wyoming

Mar 19, 2011 - 01:28pm PT

I turned on the lights so we can see your mugs....

Good stuff!

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2011 - 01:31pm PT

thanks russ! i dig that shot of you on the hook look'in all wide eyed

tonym

climber

Oklahoma

Mar 19, 2011 - 03:13pm PT

Not sure... but those wall shots of Sue on Direct HD taken in 92?
My partner and I were doing HD Reg. Route when we ran into you guys. You both were super psyched! I remember hearing you both yelling about 1/3 of the way up! Very cool! Nice pics too!

Cheers,

Tony Mayse

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Mar 19, 2011 - 03:19pm PT

thanks russ! i dig that shot of you on the hook look'in all wide eyed

Yeah, you look pretty 'focused' there in that one, Russ!

Woot!

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber

Crestline CA

Mar 19, 2011 - 04:06pm PT

Great stuff folks!! Thanks for the memories.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Mar 19, 2011 - 04:09pm PT

Russ, gives us some captions on your photos! Names, routes, dates.

Maysho

climber

Soda Springs, CA

Mar 19, 2011 - 05:24pm PT

Wow Dan, Cool photos!

Makala (sp?) looks great, so much bigger than when last I saw her, awesome that she is still climbing. It will be so cool to see you do some family ascents of El Cap!

I never saw those Silver Strand pics. Thanks for posting those. That has to be one of the scariest leads of my life (so far!) I thought soloing the rig was more relaxed, I thought I might rip, rip the soggy screw anchor and take you with me!

All the best to your family and the sweet ELP villagers,

Peter

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2011 - 11:59pm PT

peter
i remember that as if it was yesterday
you never seemed to gripped about anything, and even though the strand was a flow'in you just head out there into no mans land. i'm sitt'in on two 4" screws, and you tell me there's no good ice for a lead pro screw. next thing i know your up 40' and finally find some good ice but its too steep to throw in a screw. meanwhile i'm getting a bit puckered up at the belay watch'in this potential horror show play out! i see you going for a screw, thank goodness and as i'm finally starting to think its all going to be ok you pull up the rope but as your in the narleyist part of the pitch thats super steep the rope doesnt want to get clipped in very easily and takes a couple tries to commit to the biner (code red [almost]). way to always go for it peter!
thats the good stuff, we will never forget!!!

climber

Cardiff by the sea

Mar 20, 2011 - 01:12am PT

Cool stuff Dan I can contribute one

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Mar 20, 2011 - 01:20am PT

Thanks for sharing your pics, McTwisted. I've enjoyed your recent posts/reminiscences. They were very fun to look at while listening to the rain outside. Sue looks so strong in that pic on top of the HD Direct, and the chimney image made me think of Devil's Tower...something worth the schlep just to see on its own. So much vicarious fun.