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Ferretlegger
Trad climber
san Jose, CA
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Thanks, Pete!! Well done.
Michael
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from an ice pic and missing my mama.
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Lots of water,
a good partner,
an extra rope
tons of patience and...
Beer!
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Bargainhunter
climber
Central California
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1 babywipe per day is a nice treat for a big wall shower.
Apply to face, hands, crotch, feet (in that order).
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nature
climber
Hampi Karnataka India
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dam you Cpt0bvi0u5! you beat me too it!
edit: did anyone bother to read the entirety of PTPP's spray?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Maybe the thread should have been labeled "Big wall niceties".
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cans of fruit
wag bags over ziplok bags so I don't have to enjoy the view
extra handi-wipes [lots]
a special opaque nalgene canister full of two fingers w/ a few fresh limes and a small bag of salt and a real shot glass
hard candies
fresh fruit & veggies, aside from the limes
cans of espresso [with breakfast]
reversable stuff sack with a fleecy lining to make a nice pillow
a good book [I wonder how a Kindle is going to hold up?]
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PTPP said... Try to colour code EVERYTHING! I use Blue FISH bags for Breakfast stuff - get it? I use Red slings on stuff that goes on my Right side. Red is almost always Right. Red haul line, red adjustable daisy, etc.
Makes perfect sense. But in kitesurfing, red in on the left[!!??]. Go figure.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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PTPP-
That's a GREAT review of big wall climbing. You've spent enough time on the big stone that people should pay attention to what you say. Having climbed my first Yos big walls 40 plus years ago and recently having a personal big-wall resurgence (stupid, I know) your advice is well taken.
Things are very different then they were 40 years ago. Hybrid cams turn A3 into A1, adjustable daisys-well, how did we survive without them, funkness devices-why didn't we think about that oh so long ago, suspended aiders-don't leave home without them, pig swivels-what a concept, pigs made out of no-rip-eum..quite a change from old army duffel bags, beaks-nothing further needs to be said about these little beauties, the list goes on and on-I know I'm forgetting other little toys that have totally changed wall climbing for the masses.
The days of going up on a big wall with a rack of iron, biners, slings, and hero loops using 1 or 2" webbing for a swami with no leg loops or maybe a 1" wrap for a leg loops and knotted aiders is over.
As PTPP says, take enough to be comfortable...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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A pillow and fresh socks for the hike down.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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sick screed pete.
agree with wayno
edit: about heart, not laxatives
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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"Maybe the thread should have been labeled 'Big wall niceties'?"
One man's nicety is another man's necessity.
Soren is obviously more on the ball than me. How on earth could I have forgotten Eva the inflatable sheep?
Note - I added a few extra thoughts to my notes on the previous page, so you may wish to re-read. Gads, Cragman and Gunkie - how could I have forgotten baby wipes. I added them to my list, thanks for the reminder, eh?
Mastadon - my current count is 442 nights on the side of El Cap, not counting base and summit bivis. Trying for 500 by the end of the year!
Glad you guys find it useful! Pretty quick and easy to write, really. There are enough Dr. Piton Big Wall Tips of the Day in the previous post to save you hours if not days of labour, heartache and most importantly discomfort!
Wade: for someone who has written as many epistles, tomes, diatribes, harangues and rants as me, it is amazing that I had to look up the meaning of the word "screed". Thank you for my Word of the Day. Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!
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aaronjones
Social climber
ditch
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f*#k you talk a lot...
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Pass the PP
Boy, that's quite a summary. I'll have to write this thread down. My son may want to do another wall someday, and your suggestions will come in useful.
What a difference 40 years make. You ought to see my army duffel bag, I hauled crap in back then. I still have it. I had the late Bev Johnson reinforced it with nylon webbing.
Baby wipes, among other things, weren't around back then--or were they?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jet boil and a pillow.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Thanks Pete - I really appreciate you sharing your thoughts. Helps gumbies like myself have a fighting chance of getting up something.
Maybe we will see you this spring.
Wally
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Thanks for your positive input, guys! Glad you find it useful. Yes, Wally - I arrive Tuesday May 24 and will be around until just after the 4th of July, so see yous on the bridge for beers, eh?
Yes, things have come a long long way in the last forty years. Us young pups sure have it easy, eh?
I don't know when baby wipes first came out, but I'll always remember how I was introduced to them. Jon Fox and I had just topped out on Pacific Ocean Wall, once the hardest big wall in the world and a Bridwell classic. It was the hardest wall I had yet done.
Imagine our surprise and delight to meet none other than the Bird himself on the summit! We descended the East Ledges together, and shared a drink in the picnic area at the bottom. I had brought on the wall a few of those individually packaged Handi-Wipes, and had carefully saved a couple til we got all the way down.
"Here you go, Jim, have a Handi-Wipe." [I felt so proud!]
The Bird reaches into his pig, grabs a huge-ass package of baby wipes, and says, "Help yourself."
Damn.
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D.Eubanks
climber
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Jet boil, double ledge. It's nice not having to pass food, coffee and all the other wall necessities back and fourth from one single ledge to another.
I hate to sound like a downer, but I would rather have an extra gallon or two of water, than a six pack or two of beer. It's no fun to worry about running out of water on a big route.
I always sleep alot better, when I don't drink any alcohol the night before.
Whatever gets you up, that is what counts.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Ya know, nothing does it more for me than sitting on my ledge in the early morning, when most people are still asleep, drinking a cup of coffee.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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"I hate to sound like a downer, but I would rather have an extra gallon or two of water, than a six pack or two of beer. It's no fun to worry about running out of water on a big route."
You're talking like they're mutually exclusive!
"Ya know, nothing does it more for me than sitting on my ledge in the early morning, when most people are still asleep, drinking a cup of coffee."
I don't get it. Why would you get up so early?
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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A little angst never hurt. Oh, wait.
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