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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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I haven't had a chance to try them yet but I like the idea of the new five ten anasazi high top and plan to get a pair for trad and alpine. But, if they are anything like the low top anasazi, they will be about as far from the mythos as you can get (ie they might actually help you edge).
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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The new Boreal rubber is inferior. So those Ballet Golds need an immediate resole right out of the box. The old Boreal high tops rocked. Also the current Ballet Gold doesn't entirely cover the ankle bone (that's the part that bleeds). The TC pros seem to be a bit low cut on the ankle as well.
The JB's take some breaking in. The Acopa rubber crumbles along the edges strangely. These surprised me as being good for edging though.
The Grandstones do okay smearing into the edges of thinner cracks, surprisingly, but they aren't a pair of slippers, ya know.
Never had a pair of Kauks, the choice of the wide crew hard men. Too bad they are unavailable now except on Ebay.
Did have a pair of those purple Mariachers, though. Hmm... those 41's might fit...
That Anasazi high top looks interesting...a high top slipper? Has someone read my mind? But... those velcro straps might not take the abuse of a good wide thrashing. I'd rather see a sock-like high top (think surfer booty)...now we're talking!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Feb 25, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
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I have a pair of 1985 vintage Fire's I'll sell ya for $50. You'll need a resole and rerand. Though they were only used a few times, the rubber is dried out and crumbly. A resole with 5.10-C4 rubber is in order. Size 9
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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I am size 42.5-43 in climbing shoes...thank you all for advice..I might just go back and get some mythos again...or buy back ones I returned from used gear sale *evil smile* just kidding
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 26, 2011 - 01:57am PT
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Simple and elegant-- La Sportiva Enduro, THE intro to "trad" shoe...
http://tinyurl.com/6c64csw
The trick is in findin' 'em, I reckon
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Ryan said: "I haven't had a chance to try them yet but I like the idea of the new five ten anasazi high top and plan to get a pair for trad and alpine. But, if they are anything like the low top anasazi, they will be about as far from the mythos as you can get (ie they might actually help you edge)".
Curious if you (or anyone) has glomed onto a pair of these yet?
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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TC pro are great and worth the money.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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those high top anasazi's are really, really good. leather now, where i think the first pairs were manmade material. i just last week ordered another pair. i love them on all the wide stuff ive been doing at arch and cookie. makes new d a grade easier
fitting these boots to where a sock is worth considering, more protection and comfort for your foot and warmer for winter, and you can keep the shoe dryer by changing socks out while cragging
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Those Evolve shoes look pretty cool. I have some tan Kaukulators, white 5.10 Altias, re-issue (klunky) La Sportiva Megas, and 5.10 Cerro Torres (all with fresh rubber) and I'd have to say that the best trad crack shoe for me (including Wyde) is...
... the 5.10 Copperhead side lace slipper with mass rubber on the sides for da cracks :-) !!!!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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the 5.10 Copperhead side lace slipper with mass rubber on the sides for da cracks I bought a pair of those because I liked how the rubber extended on to the upper and the laces were protected. Looked like the designer actually thought about how you jam cracks. Maybe they just didn't fit my feet but they were crap. Toe is way too fat, won't fit into thin cracks.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Kaukulators.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Ill say it again....Get the moccasyms...best crack shoe ever.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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I scored a pair of the 5.10 Grandstones kind of on a lark for a reasonable price and absolutely love them. Probably not as good as TC pros but I didn't have that much $$ to spend on shoes. One of my partners picked some up too after I was talking about how much I liked mine and he's pretty stoked on them too. Only bad thing is they take awhile to lace/unlace so not the best shoe for cragging. Excellent for long trad though.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:22am PT
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Yeah, thin crack shoes tend to be of the "specialist" variety--pretty sure that I was talking about trad/cracks and wyde. If your thing is thin, find what works best for your togs...
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Raafie
Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Is there any difference between the blue and the brown Kaukulators other than just the color? (and maybe the years they were produced?)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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I just got a pair of the new evolv astromans last month. Really like them so far. Very comfortable, protect ankle but maintain flexibility and have a nice tongue design. The rubber is very good and holding up so far on different types of rock. On the down side they are not board lasted and I wish they were a tad stiffer, they seemed a lot like the TC pros and of a higher quality than other evolv shoes in general.
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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I really like my Grandstones. Very comfortable, climb slabs reasonably well for how stiff they are. The high top anasazis look nice too - might have to pick up a pair.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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ankle taping sucks- really hard to get it right and keep necessary mobility
get the tcs- not that much extra $- just gotta dirtbag it harder in other areas of your life for a few days :)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:45am PT
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Jaybro--your feet aren't that small, are they?
I wish mine were smaller, I'd buy those Acopas in a second!!!!
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