Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
|
The last time I climbed at the Grotto, the three of us were following
another group on the approach.
We heard the most locally-experienced of the group enthusing about being
able to put up some ropes and let everybody enjoy them. what a great
atmosphere the place had...
somehow they thought it only natural that none of my party would benefit
from any of that, that we could neither pull their ropes or use them,
that we never could get on the two or three climbs that we most wanted to
climb.
Our main consolation was that the very well-behaved dog (Thimble) with us
took long thorough excursions into the local Poison Oak and was also very
enthusiastically and affectionately petted by the climb hoggers.
Sorry (for you) this is the only example I can recall right now.
|
|
Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
|
...fart when seconding a chimney pitch.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
|
try to pick up a hot female climber while she is belaying her boyfriend
Sorry T-Trad, I think that would be funny as hell. Ala Caylor of the 80's and early 90's.
I puked in an offwidth/ squeeze chimney once.
Prod.
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
|
jamatt -- someone has to make sure you folks bear proof your food. & my dogs work extra hard at it. It's for your our good.
|
|
utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
|
Knee scums have been some of my best moments in the game!
yes... scumming with one or both knees while going hands free is a true act of faith and devotion
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
|
...jizz in a finger crack
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
|
I had this happen at Indian Creek on a popular crack climb. As we were only there a week and experiencing bad weather, we only had a few days of climbing (after a LONG drive on the “Loneliest Highway in America” hwy. 50 across Nevada).
The frustrating part was not so much them tying up a popular climb for an entire day; a group of eight I believe. What was frustrating was that only the person who set up the top rope understood how to crack climb. Everyone else were noobs. Why they were “learning/flaying” on a .10b crack for an entire day; THAT was very frustrating.
|
|
Pcutler
climber
Iowa
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
|
I once saw a guy belaying his 8 year old son on toprope. the kid was crying because he was afraid of heights. The dad kept telling the kid to "suck it up" and "quit being a baby" and wouldn't let him down till he completed the climb.
I was leading a climb right next to them, the guy pointed at me and asked his kid "See, he's leading and not even whining. Why cant you be more like that?"
what a great way to instill a love for climbing in your son - such an as#@&%e
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
"See, he's leading and not even whining. Why cant you be more like that?"
OMG hahahahahhahaa that is hilarious in a twisted way
|
|
froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
|
I once saw a guy belaying his 8 year old son on toprope. the kid was crying because he was afraid of heights. The dad kept telling the kid to "suck it up" and "quit being a baby" and wouldn't let him down till he completed the climb.
Similar story, local Portland crag. Kid was maybe 7, wasn't even in a proper harness, but some manky full body thing the dad had rigged up with an "anchor" point behind the kid's head. When there was tension on it, it pressed on the back of the kid's helmet so he couldn't even look up. "Get up there boy" was repeated numerous times. Unsatisfied with humiliating his kid, the guy proceeded to force his wife to climb. She clearly didn't want to, was scared (weeping silently) and embarased to be forced into doing something she was afraid of. Throughout all of it, he stayed macho and disrespectful to them. Probably the most horrible display of behavior I've ever seen at a crag.
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
|
It is bad form to:
Chip, chisel or otherwise alter the rock to make it climbable. I have had discussions with some prominent route developers who say using a screwdriver to scrape on the rock, is not the same as chiseling. If you alter the rock from it's natural state, it's hacked. Get it?
Hog routes all day long without offering the opportunity to others to share the climb.
Toprope off shuts or fixed anchors without using your own quickdraws to run the rope thru. I have seen shuts & 'biners so worn through that they become dangerous to use. I see this at Malibu Creek often.
Urinate or deficate at or near the base of climbs, go off in the bushes you pigs!
Drop ropes on others or pull your rappel rope without making sure it won't hit someone.
Claim you did a route when you hung all over it. You may have gotten up the route but you didn't climb it. Be honest with yourself & others!
Leave trash, tape, cig butts, etc.
Add bolts to routes to make them "safer" for others. Nobody is putting a gun to your head to make you climb. If you can't lead it, then toprope it. If you can't toprope it, just leave it be.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
|
As for the OP's question: yes!
Witness that same bad form at most roadside crags at Josh on any given weekend. I once spent the better part of a nice spring day there looking for a crag in the Hemingway/Lost Horse area that was not monopolized by TRs and had to go elsewhere in frustration. Several of the lines were tied up by one dude with two or three girls who climbed many grades below the TR'ed route and usually only got about five feet off the ground. Nice.
Also annoying, that dude at the base of White Lightening/Poodles who kept repeating every thirty seconds: "Keep on rockin' in the free world!" No whistling. No humming. No other lyrics, just every thirty seconds: "Keep on rockin' in the free world!" Five years later I'm still totally annoyed.
BTW, the dude had walked up the backside to throw a TR on Poodles (.10b) because he got absolutely nowhere trying to lead White Lightening (5.7).
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
|
Levy - well put!
Thank you.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
|
"Keep on rockin' in the free world!" Five years later I'm still totally annoyed."
This is funny. I have the same little problem. At one of the places I climbed about 5 month ago there was a guy belaying someone. Every minute he would repeat "That's the ticket!" to his partner who was climbing. I heard that phrase all day. I do not think I will EVER forget it.
"BTW, the dude had walked up the backside to throw a TR on Poodles (.10b) because he got absolutely nowhere trying to lead White Lightening (5.7)."
some good logic
|
|
BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
|
Seneca Rocks WV has climbs that end at common two bolt anchors, especially on easier climbs. I was asked by a person not to clip the anchor, because she was just learning to lead and wanted the anchor to herself. Of course I was just learning to lead myself, so I clipped the anchor anyway.
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
|
It's bad form to be stemmed out at a hanging belay with your butt 5 inches above another party's face, and then cut loose with earth-melting rotten @ss stench. Saying "sorry" just isn't good enough, and you can't run away.
This could have been avoided by not eating pork the night before when "intestinal issues" were to be expected.
I'm saying all this hypothetically of course.
|
|
High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
|
Good stuff, here. With help from the thread, it is clear the OP could've been interpretted in at least two different ways. Originally the only way I had in mind was Levy's, for instance, or Port's, but it was interesting to read about the "bad form" of leaving topropes to hang at the various locales.
.....
re: bad form
I'd also add talking loudly on a cell phone (seemingly oblivious to voice volume) at a belay station you're sharing with another party. Happened at Bushy Ledge once in a morning, no wind, so her 5-min conversation glossed the entire East Wall. Bad form.
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
|
use a cell phone on any climb for any reason other than emergency or "important" business.
Sayz the Grinch
take your partner's gear home in your pack 'cause you're too lazy or hurried to sort the tangle at the car.
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
|
asking other climbers for your gear back that your partner couldn't get out...
part of the game
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!