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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2011 - 02:21am PT
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Thank you, John. You were one of the great ones.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2011 - 02:23am PT
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Thanks indeed. It is now on the top of my "get" list.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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by all indicatios, I could sell out on this first
run, so better order quick...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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I forgot to mention the first hundred will be
autographed. (minor detail, but that will make the
film worth its weight in diamond, haha)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Come one come all, get your The Disciples of Gill
while they last... goin goin goin fast...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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orders going out in boxfulls today...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Is it wrong to bump your own thread? Just want to
make sure people know about the arrival of the DVD...
Pat
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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No, it's knott wrong Pat!!!
BUMP!
I already ordered, so shud the rest of you slackers!!!!!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Thanks, friend/s.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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I came home tonight after a loonng day at the office to....... a package from Pat Ament! :)
Pat please tell me you wrote the envelope yourself so that I have an autographed envelope that will be worth its weight in diamond too LOL
I am so looking forward to watching and listening this weekend :)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Me too! Opened the mailbox thinking, nah not yet, too soon. But there it was. Will report back later...
Signatures look the same to me.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2011 - 02:31am PT
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Well, I have to admit... I forged my own signature.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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LOL Pat. Shhh, don't tell.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2011 - 12:45am PT
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I've been getting some feedback. A fellow in California
phoned me to say he absolutely loved the film. That made
me feel good. He said he was very impressed with the quality
as well.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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I will bump this one or two more times, just to keep it
out there for a time that the dvd of
the Disciples of Gill
is here, and I mail it
the day you order. Go to the website, patament.org, for info...
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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Got my copy in the mail a couple days ago. Could not sleep Thursday night (happens too often lately) so I watched the DVD at 3:30 am. It was very good and I totally enjoyed it. The quality is outstanding and it is a truly unique piece of work in this day and age of over rated hero shots and boring rap music. Definitely a must have and would have been a great purchase at twice the price.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Thank you, Pat.
Thanks for making such a beautiful film that not only documents but pays will deserved tribute to John Gill and other pioneers of American Bouldering.
Allow me to thank-you with 1000 words:
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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My observation is the videos, far more so than stills ever could, show a remarkable evolution of footwork from Gill to Holloway to the present.
You may not be far off the mark here, DMT, but for a different reason. I was fascinated with upper body strength for many years and cultivated a very gymnastic style that I considered - this may get me into trouble! - masculine. The competitive rope climb was mostly upper body with the legs "striding", and the still and flying rings were virtually all upper body. Actually, I was OK with my feet as a climber. Bob Kamps and I and others became proficient at no-hands routes, but for more general bouldering I consciously avoided heel hooks for many years because I thought this made the performance of climbing a little like what we gymnasts called "jungle gymnastics." To me the gymnastic style was more important than simply getting up something with every ounce of desparation or contorting myself into what I considered awkward bodily configurations.
So, the evolution of footwork you speak of was more a product of climbers focusing on pure difficulty rather than performance style. And, yes, as you might suspect, back in the 50s and early 60s I was virtually alone - with a few notable exceptions like the splendid boulderers Rich Goldstone and Pat Ament - in my perception of the sport!
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426
climber
☬
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Really interesting post, John.
Speaking of disciples, I feel that often Sharma was somewhat criticized for "not using feet well" when he was younger. Actually, he was using his feet quite well, when you get into really steep terrain, sometimes one or no feet on is clearly the most efficient way of going about it--something I've been learning in the last decade...watching Sharma now, one can see the evolution of this movement, his whole body "kips" for lack of a better term...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I few further observations about footwork.
(1) You have to try the center no-hands route on Falling Ant Slab at Jenny Lake to see just how good Gill was at footwork. My now-distant memory is that thing was 5.10 with both hands, with a really high step onto a dime edge at the crux---I could never do it, nor did I ever see anyone else except for Gill ever do it (although I wouldn't be surprised to learn that Kamps had done it).
(2) Modern rubber has revolutionized foot technique by allowing climbers to pivot on a weighted foot. BITD, if you moved your foot at all, it would blow off a hold. Many of the sport-climbers standard tricks would have been way dicier in the pre-sticky rubber days.
(3) The combination of rubber and downturned toes has give climbers a much more viable option to pull with their feet in overhanging rock.
John is right about heel-hooks though; we thought of them as terrible style and poor technique. Then Henry Barber and Steve Wunsch started climbing things with heel hooks that we couldn't do. So then we figured maybe we should pay attention...
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