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Erik
Trad climber
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Feb 14, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
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Ice climbing scares the shyte out of me, and I don't do it anymore. Like the original poster, I thought it was "easy" and that there was nothing to it. So one day I took my straight shafted, classic-curved ice axes and old Black Ice crampons and led a grade 4 on my very first climb. It was the scariest day of my life, and even though I've since gone back many times (with better gear), I was never able to feel as comfortable on ice as on rock. Blasphemy for a Canadian, I know. IMO, ice climbing takes more balls.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 14, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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But what about lycra? There's no lycra!
Oh yes there is. Under every pair of dorky-looking outer pants hides the most amazing lycra. Just cuz you haven't been able to get an ice climber's pants off doesn't mean there's no lycra.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Feb 14, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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Yeah man, it's like easier than sport climbing.
Just go find a good, long, steep pillar that looks like a massive chandelier and lead it when it's good and cold (10f or less) and report back.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
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It's really really easy. & you never get cool or wet cause of all the pretty lycra under your pants.
Oh ya & your axe never bounces off hard ice, I've almost never broken a tip off of my crampons.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 14, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
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I've almost never been clobbered by a dinnerplate (ALWAYS wear a helmet and glasses/goggles)
almost never driven a pick through the ice and had the running water spurt out as from a faucet.
almost never had my crampons skate off a hold
almost never had a crampon come off mid-pitch.
almost never been smothered in a spindrift avalanche started by the leader
almost never had my fingers go numb.
Almost never had my glasses/goggles ice up
Almost never had my toes go numb.
Almost never bottomed a 6" ice screw after 2"
almost never had my picks or crampons skating on rock after kicking off a layer of thin ice
almost never stuffed my foot through the ice and filled my boot with running water (always wear gaiters)
almost never blown a foothold and been left dangling from my axes
almost never blown an axe placement and been left dangling from poor foot holds and one axe
almost never speared my calf with crampon tips
almost never screamed "what the F(*K am I doing here???"
have NEVER failed to have a good time ice climbing. (so far)
Go figure.
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kc
Trad climber
sj, ca
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Feb 14, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
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Glad I'm not the only one to have experienced the 'high points' of ice climbing, HighTraverse!
It's hard, it's painful, it's scary, and it's way too much fun to not do.
Going to Ouray again in 10 days! Yeeehaawwwwwwwwwwwwwww!!!
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Feb 14, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
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it's better than posting on Supertopo on the weekends...
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big ears
Trad climber
?
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Feb 14, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
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I am still a bumbling noob when it comes to ice, but from my experience its a bit like doing run out, sketchy trad leads. The comparison is that, while you are doing it, its not actually that fun. Its cold, wet, scarier, extremely physically demanding, and time consuming. Typically when you get to the end you are too cold to really enjoy the view, so take pictures.
On the hike back to the car/ camp all I can think is that I am never ice climbing again. But as soon as I dry off/ warm up I am planning another day.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 14, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Ice climbing can get you to places like this- enjoy!
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
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Traditional mixed is the best form of climbing - none of this bolted nonsense.
ice is cool but a rock section or two adds a lot to the day.
the gear is okay on ice and good (albeit spaced out) on mixed ground compared to moderate aid but the proximity to sharp attached things adds to the peril of falling off.
never leave the ground without a lid.
Ice is not "easy" but it is simple, mixed is technical and demanding.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
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Jim-that is an all time classic picture-is that you, you handsome devil?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
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Unfortunately it is, but Tami will have to tell me what HAWT is.
edit: That's Jello in the sleeping bag next to me, he wasn't feeling very well.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
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Is ice climbing as easy as looks?
Yes, but only on TR.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
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Only on TR
Most useful bit in this thread.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
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was wondering when donini was going to post that pic!
sorry to disagree but it's not as easy as it looks on TR
or else I still haven't figured it out. Which is entirely possible
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eurotrash
climber
Denmark
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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Sarah Funky Fresh
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
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I just watched two gripping shows about ice climbing. Not so much about the climbs themselves, but the dangers that go with it. I highly recommend Animal Planet's "I Shouldn't Be Alive" episodes "Killer Crevasse" and "Death Climb." Very inspiring stuff about the human will to survive.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Feb 14, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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Ice climbing is a wonderful way to suffer for your art.
It is not rock climbing.
It is not easier or harder than rock climbing.
It is ICE climbing and it is as easy or as hard as you make it.
Technique and knowledge of the medium are probably more critical elements in ice climbing and it should not be approached lightly.
I have been playing at it since Neoprene cramp straps were the new high tech equipment of the day.
The new gear seems like cheating to me but boy is it a vast improvement. The new user friendly gear and easily accessible ice parks like Ouray have opened the sport up to whole new populations of avid participants. Ever since adopting leash-less tools and mono-point crampons I have not experienced the joy of the screaming barfies. Nor the terror of a totally pumped top out.
Ice is an incredibly aesthetic medium to observe and ascend.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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Nothing worth doing is easy but it certainly can be fun.
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