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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 19, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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I thouroughly understand peoples dislike of what happened on the GSR and in a few other situations involving the aformentioned person. I do not understand the malice and vehemence with which many people discuss the person (as opposed to the actions). It doesn't seem like Sloan needs to 'bring a route down to his level' as his level is far above most here, he is a strong and competent wall climber, with a resume to prove it. There must have been some reason for the actions taken, possibly bad reasons, but reasons none the less.
It almost seems like people are dealing with the stages of mourning and the only way to express feelings is with anger... (this isn't the LEB thread, lets all take our anger there instead!)
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 19, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
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I've personally spoken with Erik about the route. I didn't really give a sh#t about the matter enough to press for details. My interest in doing "research" on what a bunch of morons and outsiders have to say is zero.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 19, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Keep speaking from a position of ignorance. Feel free to post your photos of this atrocity, bud.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 19, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
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My understanding is he encountered a bunch of dirty, friable crap rock.
Again, feel free to post your photos.
FYI, for some perspective, Kor's active career lasted about 10 yrs. Erik has been living in the Valley for nearly 20 yrs.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 19, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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with no valid explanation to this day
That pretty much nails it. Do what you think is right, but if you can't/won't defend it be prepared for people to discuss it without knowing your side of the story.
I think we all "own" the rock and I am put off by Nanook's refusal to discuss specific instances of retrobolting, and his post here that basically said you have to replace X numbers of bolts per year to have any say in the matter. I applaud him for living in the valley and climbing a lot of walls, but that doesn't give him any more ownership of the rock than anyone else.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 19, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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What it really comes down to is content. One can pretty much come up with a conclusion as to what the basic format of the 3rd Edition of The Supertopo Big Wall Book which hopefully will have some more routes and info than the last. Eriks goal of creating a more comprehensive Big Wall book truly is a large effort and it may come down to splitting it up into 2 volumes over a period of time.
CMac will get his book published no matter what it has in it old, new etc. and with the distribution that he has will more than likely sell quite a few books. Hopefully Erik can get his published as well and be able to get some decent distribution as well but honestly dont think he is going to get overly rich off it. Fact is there is room for both. Heck if silver does a book he might surpass both books sales :)
When this whole GSR thing came out lots of jabber about boycotting Erik even someone saying they were going to run him out of the valley with his tail between his legs. Well Erik is still in the valley and people still talk to him at the bridge including your truly. Like Gene I know him and I see Gene there to. some of you our paths may have crossed but maybe dont know you on sight. I am in the valley almost every spring and Fall.
Some people will not buy Cmacs book for whatever reason and others will do the same with Eriks but my guess both books will sell despite what some peoples opinions are here. The debate and bitching will continue while others are climbing.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 19, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Yeah, (to Slakkey). Im going climbing, there is nice weather and walls to be had!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jan 20, 2011 - 02:58am PT
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he encountered a bunch of dirty, friable crap rock.
I don't see any sign of "crap rock" in the photos Gene posted.
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Blakeb
Gym climber
Southern Oregon, behind her
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Jan 20, 2011 - 07:33am PT
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JLP, you are really dumb!
Cheers, blake
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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I don't see any sign of "crap rock" in the photos Gene posted. I don't see any of the rock that got skipped. Feel free to post photos from your ascent.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 20, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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Couple of quick points. In the first picture I posted from Erik's TR, you can see a very short stretch of the original line that was skipped. You can see pin scars along the horizontal crack. It was bypassed with two bolts leading up to a third bolt at the pendulum point.
My understanding is he encountered a bunch of dirty, friable crap rock.
So what? Sounds like many lines on the right side of EC.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Scarred rock comes only from traffic or sh#t rock.
Look - I don't have an opinion on the matter and I'm not going to form one from a few low rez photos pointing in the wrong direction. I am simply parroting what I heard from Erik. My point here is that unless you've gotten off your butt to go up there, your opinion is pretty worthless, so maybe consider keeping it to yourself.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 20, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
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Balls MaGee
climber
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Jan 20, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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^ word! these guys are Freak'n LOSERS. i can't beleive how played out this is. i said it once, and i'll say it again....get a job pleeeease
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 20, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
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My point here is that unless you've gotten off your butt to go up there, your opinion is pretty worthless, so maybe consider keeping it to yourself
Does the same knott apply to you?
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Blakeb
Gym climber
Southern Oregon, behind her
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Jan 20, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
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Yo JLP, so first you spew some BS free climbing junk then you say you dont care about the topic and basically just opened your mouth for no reason. If you dont care, why open your mouth? Yet you continue to open your mouth and call who outsiders?
Then you throw out this wack comparison of kor and nanook. Hmm, first ascents all over the place during a period with lots of unknowns and primitive gear compared to repeating tons of already existing routes with modern gear. Both amazing guys, but super wack comparison! Yeah, this comparison totally gives him the right to drill a bolt ladder, haha.
Then you say you are just parroting from eriks mouth. You should let him speak for himself. Then, since you dont want to have an opinion, you tell others to go up there and check it out for themselves. Honestly you should think more and type less. You sound like you have a peanut between your ears!
I consider erik a friend, but for the most part i agree with mike. Bolting on someone elses FA around sections you are not in the mood to climb, without consulting the first ascentionist or with consent of the climbing community is total absolute BS.
When i was a child i learned that if you do something in a public setting, for example yosemite's cliffs are fairly public, and then after you have done whatever it may be, you then shy away and talk circles but never answer directly the questions layed in front of you about your actions then you most likely have done something that you yourself know is immoral and wrong.
Again, i consider erik a friend, but he has dodged alot of questions about the GSR and other lead bolting projects of his. His answers are wishy washy and often his answers are just more questions, never real answers.
If his acts were good for the community and so "righteous" then he would have no problem discussing these openly and standing behind his actions proudly. He isnt though, which makes me strongly believe that he is conciously aware that what he is doing is total bull sh#t.
Having said that, i appreciate alot of the work erik has done for our community as well. Just a line must be drawn somewhere. Big walls are not supposed to be picnics or overly safe. The inherrent risk is a part of the game and it keeps those that are not ready on the ground or heading back to the ground with their heads tucked between their knees. Let those that are scared of what looms overhead stick with sport climbing or just easier big wall routes.
So yeah, not so sure i could buy the nanook book and further support some of his bad decisions with our community's resources.
one of the worst climbers, but best bailers,
blail
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Jan 20, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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Because then it'd just be another sport route.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 20, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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or via ferratas
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 20, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Remember when all of us as#@&%es were endlessly reaming Ammon for placing a single piton on a speed ascent. Yeah, it happened. Much like a pack of male dawgs after a bitch in heat I was in there too. Where's Ammon now? Gone. Stop chasing off all the good climbers. Christ, go attack LEB again, go pleasure yourselves, Simpson reruns...something. .....nobody's perfect, so he f*#ked your mother in the ass and she enjoyed it...what about it? So what.
as#@&%es
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