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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 16, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Nice!
Thanks Ed,
Z
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
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Cool report and very nice overlay, Ed.
The overlay suggests you went lower on p6 than we did on the mass ascent in 2008?
[Edit: the overlay shows the same way I went; I just had trouble looking for the dead tree on the overlay - thanks for explaining, Ed!]
We went up by the dead tree, which involved a hard/reachy move up some rock with black lichen - I was concerned that might be wet/undoable on Sunday.
Older thread with additional discussion and photos of the climb and nearby stuff:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/564266/Edge-Of-Absurdity-new-7-pitch-5-8-Above-The-Cookie
46 photos from the 4/2008 mass ascent:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/08426.htm
(looks like we got a lot more sunlight than you did in December; no surprise, I guess)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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Looks like a good climb for the 2011 FaceLift. Bound to be some junk somewhere around that tunnel that needs to be cleaned up.
Can I get in on that one? Please??
John
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
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Nice! Thanks for the tr-- looks like fun!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Dec 16, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
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Very nice TR, Ed!
This is what real threads should contain: climbing, rather than character assasinations. Again, good job.
Rodger
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Barbarian
Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
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Dec 16, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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Nice TR Ed!
Abel Gable sent me the topo a couple summers ago, and it looked like fun, so Jimmy Cooke and I decided to go for it. We did the approach as described, found the start, and roped up.
Pitch 1 was cake.
Pitch 2 was Jimmy's. He cruised it, and I thrashed my was up to the belay.
The mantles on pitch 3 reminded me that I live at a keyboard - my 50 year plus sendentary arms didn't have the juice, and I was the reason we could not finish. (Sorry Jimmy!)
I tucked my tail between my legs and suffered through the long slog back to the car.
Glad your results were different!
(BTW, I hope to return and regain my self-respect someday)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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we went high on Pitch 6, (the "6" on the overlay image above is right next to the tall dead pine tree, hard to see in that lighting) and the whole cliff there was wet, which is why there are so many vegetable friends hanging out there to watch the antics.
looking right, just off the Pitch 5 belay, was not encouraging as is seemed wetter and steeper than going up and right, which is what Linda did...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 17, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
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Thanks for explaining, Ed. I see now the line is the same.
I just got a little confused trying to find the dead tree on the overlay!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 18, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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Climbing Bump.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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although I thought the topo had a warning (it does not), there are Poison Oak bushes that dot the first pitch... I suspect that it is apparent when the bushes have leaves, but this time of year they don't so it is best to brush up on the "stick structure" of PO so that you don't brush up on the bush itself... as I did... not too bad, inside right forearm near the wrist, left arm, inside, near the elbow, between the ring finger and the pinkie of my right hand... I must have been fully in the bush to get those spots and I'm amazed I escaped with the little that I have...
these bushes are the Cerberean hounds that greet you on this particular passage...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
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That looks like a great climb and even greater adventure. We are all jealous up here in the frozen North!
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
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Poison oak is the Devil! It will touch you when you give in to temptation, and infect you with evil.
Be on the lookout at all times.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 18, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
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Apropos?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Dec 18, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
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Nice Job Ed thanks for sharing,
Looks full on for the grade!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Dec 18, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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Great winter Valley TR. Looks like you guys hit it between all these storms.
The PO on the first pitch is alive and waiting to give you the touch. I stared it down a few years back and chickened out because of it.
Facelift and tunnel: During the '05 or '06 facelift, jstan and I and some gal that worked for the gov't cleaned up the base area. We found those old chairs that got tossed out of the tunnel, numerous beer and pop cans, some steel pipes, copper wire and ceramic insulators, diamond plate, and other debris tossed out of the tunnel. It seems that most everything that gets tossed out ends up about 40' up and right of the the start of EOA and at the far left margin of the Cookie Sheet. We filled our haulbags with as much as we could carry and stumbled down to the road.
Friends and I have taken at least 100 lbs of garbage (mostly abandoned power line junk)every facelift since. There's still more to go. The lighter junk that is tossed out of the tunnel gets washed down a drainage that heads toward the Below the Sheet area. I have unearthed many old pull tab cans down there.
Fortunately I have not seen too much modern trash up there. Perhaps the tunnel opening is not the party spot that it used to be?
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Dec 18, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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Really great TR. Thanks for the pics and the awesome in-head narration.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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I really love the name. I gotta do this route.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Dec 19, 2010 - 02:01am PT
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WOW, Ed!
Great TR, great photos, great team. Kudos to you both!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 19, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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So, C + S, it sounds like there is still stuff at and around the tunnel egress, and more so at and near the base of the route, that could be cleaned up? Boy, that would be a score, picking up tourist and industrial garbage that's actually on a climb.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2014 - 11:45am PT
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the crux sequence is a bit tricky
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