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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Munge... While it is true that there are MANY fine slab routes out there I must pick up on something in the OP... Grack Marginal. I believe I have done that route 20+ times. I loved that route. It was my first (of not many) free-solos and it took on a whole new dimension when it was just me, some EBs and a bag of courage. A fine Walk in the Park
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harihari
Trad climber
Squampton
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in Squamish, two are mega-classics, both testaments to what happens when you drill on lead:
White Lightning (10c)...loads of folks try this and weep. Solid runouts, scary cruxes. But it's all there...if you are.
Dancing in the Light (11b). Bolts where you need them. Bring your head.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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O-man, is that on Big Rock Candy Mtn? Childhood's End or Field of Dreams would certainly be candidates.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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I hate to think of any route being the "ultimate". If there was one, why bother with others. I can think of many slabs that stand out in my memory, but here are two that I thought especially interesting.
There is a slab, maybe 30 degrees in steepness in the NF Kings canyon, next to a water slide. In order to repeat the water slide you have to walk up the slab out of a pool of water. Super delicate. Fun to struggle so much on such low angle, then feel your feet cut loose and go shooting back into the pool.
Nearby on Patterson Bluffs right there is a section near the top of the bluff with large (body sized) scallops. The scallops provide friction climbing on a pretty steep wall. I don't recall any edges, so we had to use pure friction to mantel from one divot to the other. Totally weird.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aren't there some good ones out east on some of those "ledges".
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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A few of my favorites, by area:
Yosemite, Crest Jewel
TM, Miss Adventure
Courtright, Esto Power
T&S, Magical Mystery Tour
Dome Rock, About Face
But I think the most memorable slab I've done is The Prow of The Cobra, Kings Canyon, Gorge of Despair. This route has it all. It's sufficiently long, achieves a real summit, is remote in a truly spectacular setting, and is at the moderate grade of 5.9 but it is continuous and sparsely protected being devoid of bolts (FA 1979 Gary Valle and Phil Warrender.)
This is the start:
Here's the slab and summit ridge, Blue Canyon behind:
The Descent, Tehipite Dome behind:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
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oh nice, some killer stoke going on this thread.
good stuff Simon.
Scott, yeah, wet slabs are a whole nutter animal.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Kris, can you do something about those red tights, please? Photoshop should help.
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Since the Grack was listed I'll put in for Cat Dancing on MCR.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Tightrope on GPA is a five star classic. Anyone else done it?
For a single pitch, I really liked "Daddy's Little Girl" on Stately Pleasure Dome.
Bruce
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Warbler, I can't remember from all the rebolting threads, can you also say "new fattie bolts" - check for Black Primo? (Can't pass up another opportunity to say THANKS to Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, and all the other many people who've worked to resurrect the huge list of all-time classic face routes on MCR and elsewhere.)
Also, while I'm partial to local areas, here's a tip of the hat to a superb one-pitch slab route at City of Rocks: Science Friction. Superb route, great pro, but alas, not done enough to scuff off all the patina of DG particles, which accumulate on your rope tarp like snow. Next time I'll bring a push broom and sweep each section from bolt to bolt before climbing it.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I seem to remember being quite pleased with Hoppy's Favorite on the Apron. 10C I believe.
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dan-man
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Solid Gold, Joshua Tree
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dan-man
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Its about 75 degrees, and youre mostly on your feet. It felt like a slab to me.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Isn't Solid Gold - the first pitch, anyway - almost all edging on sharp flakes, on a fairly steep wall? The second pitch is a flake crack, then a traverse crack that leads to the top.
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