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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Nov 16, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
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Thanks Rolo Garibotti.
This has made the Alpinist page.
I am on the Boycott of Red Bull and Lama.
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Nov 16, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
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Great job Rolo! I'll by you a cold fizzy drink when you get back to Boulder...and it sure as hell won't be Red Bull.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 16, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
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Let's hope Lama is denied a Canadian visa should he ever apply for one.
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Gene
Social climber
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Nov 16, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
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With a team named Lama & Putz, we MUST HAVE a Tami cartoon ASAP.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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No worries about drinking Red Bull- the stuff sucks. Can the Park Superintendent intervene with the next attempt? After all, they left tons of gear behind the first time contrary to their agreement.
I have opened a number of routes in the area and have placed a TOTAL of 4 or 5 hand drilled bolts- all on Torre Egger in 1976. I have not even taken bolts with me since Torre Egger, the rock in the area lends itself to non invasive protection.
Thanks Rolo for your report and your efforts in cleaning up the debacle!!!
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
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donini-
have not even taken bolts with me since Torre Egger, the rock in the area lends itself to non evasive protection.
I can't help myself, sorry. I'm guessing routes with evasive protection are pretty challenging. I hate it when I size 'er up and reach for the #3, only to find that the crack has foreseen my move and quickly grown to #4.
Dickhead poking at donini for grammar aside, hats off to rolo and let's hope the powers that be at Redbull take note of the response on this page and do the right thing. No new trip for retrobolting route trashers.
-Bob
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
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Ooops....wanted to say invasive, going back to edit the sentence. Editing ST posts could prove to be a tough job.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale UT
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
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This may be a dumb question but why did he bring guides with him? If he is a professional, shouldnt he just have a partner or something and learn his own way around the park--or do most sponsored climbers take guides with them?
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Cor
climber
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Nov 16, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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of course a sport climber needs a guide in a trad area...
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 16, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
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where can i find fresh chopage?
no recycle, just for kicks,
i think ted and hanoi jane are the choppers,
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RobA
Trad climber
NJ-Summer LCC Winter
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Nov 16, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
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left an entire highway of bolts and pitons in the mountain’s south-east face, which has nothing to do with today’s climbing ethics
from his red bull blog...
i hope they dump his ass
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maxdacat
Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
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Nov 16, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Good effort to do this but why no photos? Esp. in this age of cheap digital cameras.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 16, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
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Just another "Thank You" to Rolo - way to get after the Red Bullsh1t.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Rolo,
Good work on the cleanup and expose'.
Lama and Putz sound way too much like "Maestri II"!
 Misinformation and trigger happy with the bolt gun.
Ban power drills in the park.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 17, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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and the cell phones and computers, but not the digital cameras.
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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of course a sport climber needs a guide in a trad area... haha that legitimately made me laugh
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jonny red
Trad climber
golden b.c.
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Nov 17, 2010 - 01:21am PT
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Nice work Rolo. I wish I was there to help...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:39am PT
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Why is Cerro Torre so special? Commercial pressures and climbing have caused similar environmental impacts, both real and symbolic, to many other mountains and cliffs. Many, around the world. Less commonly in remote areas, but it happens in wildernesses too. And getting to and from wilderness peaks often has higher impacts, however well-behaved one is on the spot.
Certainly Cerro Torre has great symbolic value. But what about our cumulative impacts everywhere else? Is any of us innocent?
It's great fun to mock Lama, Doofus, Rad Bull et al for what they did. IMHO it was boneheaded, although economics always tend to be paramount for commercial climbers. But does this really help advance the purpose of having all climbers reduce or eliminate their impacts on the environment, both at home and in the mountains?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 06:16am PT
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Cerro Torre is a "sore spot" because of Maestri's bolt ladder, the abandoned compressor, and his prior/continuing lies about having completed the FA with Toni Egger (debunked by Rolo in the AAJ).
The bolt ladder does provide a way to descend from the top, but the concept of motorized bolting up a blank wall on a big alpine peak is disturbing to many. It is one of those "fence" issues like the rap bolting of Growing Up, which can be justified, but many are uncomfortable with it.
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