Joe Puryear killed in Tibet

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Barbarian

Trad climber

The great white north, eh?

Oct 27, 2010 - 02:52pm PT

This is a huge loss for our community, but an even greater loss for those closest to him. Condolences to his family and friends. My thoughts and prayers are with you in this difficult time.

Scott

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:01pm PT

I am so sorry to hear this;....Joe's post on the SW desert on supertopo is the best post I have ever seen on supertopo....and his motivation and talent have inspired me to no end. I am so sorry to hear this....rest in peace, Joe.

dirt claud

Sport climber

san diego,ca

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:10pm PT

Sorry to hear about this, condolences to family and friends.

Prezwoodz

climber

Anchorage

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:11pm PT

No freakin way is all I can think of...

Sometimes I feel as though we are soldiers doing battle against an imaginary being and its picking us off one by one...

Gene

Social climber

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:13pm PT

Best wishes to Joe's friends, family and partners. So sad.

g

John Moosie

climber

Beautiful California

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:16pm PT

Thats rough. Seemed like a great guy. I loved his desert trip report. My condolences to friends and family.

mooser

Trad climber

seattle

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:26pm PT

This is very sad news, indeed. My condolences to Joe's family and friends.

Seamstress

Trad climber

Yacolt, WA

Oct 27, 2010 - 03:36pm PT

A wonderful man to bridge the world of govt. employees and climbers.

Crodog

Social climber

Oct 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT

FULL CLIMBING RESUME

North America:

Alaska Range:
Mt. Barrill (7,650 ft.),
Cobra Pillar (6/2004), VI 5.11a A2, 27 pitches; speed ascent: 15h 10m
Japanese Couloir (4/2004), III 50o, 900 m
Mt. Brooks (11,940 ft.), North Ridge (7/2008), III 50o 2000m
Mt. Crosson (12,800 ft.), Southeast Ridge (6/2000), III 50o, 1800 m
Mt. Dan Beard (10,260 ft.), Southwest Route (4/2004), V 5.5 60o, 1200 m
Denali (20,320 ft.),
Cassin Ridge (6/2000), Alaska Grade 5 5.8 65o, 50 pitches, 2700 m
South Buttress – West Buttress Traverse (4/1996), Alaska Grade 3 55o, 4400 m
Mt. Dickey (9,545 ft.), Southwest Ridge (4/2000), III 45o, 1500 m
Eye Tooth (9,000 ft.), West Pillar (6/2004), V 5.10c, 27 pitches
Pt. Farine (9,300 ft.), East Ridge, solo (6/2001), II 45o, 500 m
Mt. Frances (10,450 ft.),
East Ridge (5/2001), III 45o, 900m; 2 ascents
Southwest Ridge (5/2004), IV 5.8 50o, 1100m
Mt. Foraker (17,400 ft.),
Infinite Spur (6/2001), Alaska Grade 6 5.9 M5, 65 pitches, 2700 m
Sultana Ridge (6/2000), Alaska Grade 3 45o, 3100 m
Mt. Hunter (14,570 ft.), West Ridge (4/1999), Alaska Grade 4 5.7 55o, 2400 m
Mt. Huntington (12,240 ft.), Harvard Route w/ first ascent variation (5/2000), VI 5.9 A2 80o, 1200m
Hut Tower (6000 ft.), Southwest Face (6/2002), IV 5.10c, 10 pitches; 2 ascents
Kahiltna Dome (12,525 ft.), Northeast Ridge (6/2001), II 40o, 600 m
Kahiltna Queen (12,380 ft.), West Face (5/2000), IV 65o, 18 pitches, 900 m; 2 ascents
Kichatna Spire (9,985 ft.), The Black Crystal Arête, first ascent (7/2005), VI 5.10 A2, 900 m
Middle Troll (6,900 ft.), West Face (7/2004), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Mini-Moonflower (10,600 ft.), North Couloir (5/2004), IV 85o, 14 pitches
Mooses Tooth (10,300 ft.),
Ham and Eggs (4/2003), V 5.9 AI4, 20 pitches
Shaken Not Stirred (5/2003), V AI5, 18 pitches
The Radio Control Tower (8,670ft.), South Face (5/2001), II, 5.0 55o, 300 m
Mt. Silverthrone (13,220 ft.), West Face, first ascent (4/1997), III 65o, 1700 m
South Troll (6,900 ft.), South Ridge (7/2004), III 5.8, 8 pitches
The Stump (6,600 ft.), South Face, Goldfinger, first ascent (6/2004), IV 5.11a, 12 pitches
The Throne (7,390 ft.), South Face (7/2004), III 5.8, 10 pitches
Pt. 8,240 ft., East Ridge, solo (6/2001), II 45o, 600 m
Peak 11,300 ft., Southwest Ridge (4/2004), V 5.8 60o, 1200 m
Peak 12,200 ft.,
East Ridge – Southwest Face traverse (4/1995), IV 50o, 1500 m
South Face (5/2004), III 5.5 50o, 1200 m

Bugaboos:
Bugaboo Spire (10,250 ft.), Northeast Ridge (8/2003), IV 5.7, 10 pitches
Pigeon Spire (10,215 ft.),
East Face (8/2003), V 5.10, 18 pitches
West Ridge, solo (8/2003), II 5.4
Snowpatch Spire (10,050 ft.),
Furry Pink (8/2003), IV 5.10c, 8 pitches
Krause-McCarthy (8/2003), IV 5.8, 6 pitches
Southeast Ridge (8/2003), IV 5.6, 16 pitches
Southwest Corner Direct (8/2003), III 5.10a, 7 pitches
Wildflowers (8/2003), IV 5.9, 9 pitches
South Howser Spire (10,850 ft.), Becky-Chouinard (8/2003), V 5.9, 18 pitches

Cascade Mountains:
Mt. Adams (12,276 ft.), South Route (8/1998), 5 ascents
Argonaut Peak (8,453 ft.),
Northeast Buttress (6/1998), II 5.8, 8 pitches
West Ridge, solo (9/2002), II 5.5, 5 pitches
Mt. Baker (10,788 ft.), North Ridge (7/1994), III+ 70o, 1000 m
Mt. Baring (6,125 ft.), North Face (7/2007), V 5.10c, 20 pitches
Bear Mountain (7,942 ft.), Direct North Buttress (8/1999), V 5.10c, 25 pitches
Burgundy Spire (8,400 ft.), North Face (6/1996), III 5.8, 6 pitches
Chair Peak (6,238 ft.),
East Face (5/1994), III 5.6, 6 pitches
North Face (2/1994), III 65o, 4 pitches
Northeast Buttress (3/1994), III 65o, 5 pitches
West Face (1/1995), III 60o, 6 pitches
Mt. Challenger (8,236 ft.), Challenger Glacier (8/2005), II 5.7
Chianti Spire (8,400 ft.), East Face (7/1996), III 5.10, 7 pitches
Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200 ft.), West Face (8/1997), IV 5.11 C1, 12 pitches
Colchuck Peak (8,705 ft.),
Colchuck Glacier (7/1997), II class 3 40o
Northeast Buttress (7/1997), IV 5.8, 20 pitches
North Buttress Couloir, solo (4/1994), III 65o, 10 pitches, 2 ascents
Copper Mountain (6,280 ft.), East Face Couloir (2/1994), II 60o, 4 pitches
Crystal Lake Tower (7,800 ft.), Southwest Arête (7/1999), III 5.8, 15 pitches
Cutthroat Peak (8,050 ft.), South Buttress (8/1998), III 5.8, 10 pitches
Double Peak (6,199 ft.), East Face, first ascent (6/1997), III 5.10b, 6 pitches
Dragontail Peak (8,840 ft.),
Backbone Ridge (9/1995), IV 5.9, 18 pitches (2 ascents)
Boving Route (8/1998), IV 5.10c, 14 pitches
Dragonfly (8/2006), IV 5.11, 12 pitches
North Face (7/1999), IV 5.8, 28 pitches
Northeast Arête (6/1998), III 5.8, 10 pitches
Northeast Buttress (6/1998), IV 5.8, 20 pitches
North-northeast Arête (7/1998) III 5.8, 8 pitches
Serpentine Arête (7/1994), IV 5.8, 16 pitches; 3 ascents
Triple Couloir (3/1995), IV 5.8 70o, 20+ pitches
Eagle Peak (5,958 ft.), East Slabs, first ascent (8/2003), III 5.7, 8 pitches
Early Morning Spire (8,200 ft.), Thin Black Line (7/1996), III+ 5.9, 13 pitches
Eldorado Peak (8,868 ft.),
East Ridge (7/2007)
West Arête (7/2009), IV 5.8, 2,800 ft.
Enchantment Peak, Acid Baby (7/2010), III 5.10+, 8 pitches
Mt. Fernow (9.249 ft.), South Route (7/2007)
Forbidden Peak (8,815 ft.),
East Ridge Direct (7/1996), III 5.8, 10 pitches
West Ridge (5/1994), III 5.6, 10 pitches
Mt. Garfield (5,119 ft.), Infinite Bliss (8/2006), IV 5.10c, 23 pitches, 2 ascents
Mt. Goode (9,200 ft.),
Northwest Buttress (5/1995), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Northeast Buttress (7/2009), III 5.5, 2,800 ft.
Goat Wall,
Sisyphus (6/2006), III 5.11a, 10 pitches
Prime Rib (6/2007), III 5.9, 11 pitches
Restless Natives (6/2006), III 5.11b, 11 pitches
Goose Egg Mountain (4,566 ft.),
Bowl Packer, first ascent (11/2002), III 5.11c, 5 pitches
The Commandho Pillar, first ascent (3/2002), III 5.11b, 7 pitches; 3 ascents
Dirty Sanchez, first ascent (3/2002), III 5.9, 8 pitches; 4 ascents
Ignorant Bliss, first ascent (11/2002), III 5.10c, 6 pitches
Ride the Lightning, first ascent (10/2001), first winter ascent (2/2002), III 5.9, 7 pitches; 6 ascents
Shock and Awe, first ascent (4/2003), III 5.10c, 7 pitches
Southeast Arête, first winter ascent (2/2002), III 5.10d, 7 pitches
Spoil Ill, first ascent (7/2010), III 5,10c, 6 pitches
Notable speed ascents: Ride the Lightning in 56 minutes; 1:33 round trip.
Dirty Sanchez in 16 minutes; 31 minutes round trip.
Green Giant Buttress (3,084 ft.),
Dreamer (7/1996), IV 5.9, 10 pitches
Safe Sex (8/2009), IV 5.9, 9 pitches
Mt. Hood (11,235 ft.), South Route (6/1993), II 40o
Mt. Index (5,967 ft.), North Peak to Main Peak Traverse (7/2003), V 5.7, c. 35 pitches
Index Upper Town Wall (2,400 ft.),
Davis–Holland Route (6/1995), III 5.10c, 6 pitches
The Green Dragon, solo (6/1997), IV C2+, 5 pitches; 2 ascents
Town Crier, solo (6/1997), IV 5.8 C2, 7 pitches
Ingalls Peak, North Peak (7,662 ft.), South Face (7/2007), II 5.6, 4 pitches
Inspiration Peak (7,880 ft.), East Ridge (8/2010), IV 5.9, 10 pitches
Johannesburg Mountain (8,200 ft.), North Rib (8/2007), IV 5.6 45o, 4,000 feet
Juno Tower (7,920 ft.), Clean Break (7/1998), IV 5.10b, 10 pitches
Kloochman Rock (4,532 ft.),
North Summit Tower, North Face, first ascent (4/2001), III 5.7, 8 pitches
South Ridge, first ascent (4/2001), II 5.6R, 4 pitches
Tower One, Northeast Arête, first ascent (9/2002), III 5.11a, 6 pitches
Tower One, Northeast Ramps, first ascent (4/2001), II 5.7R, 5 pitches
Tower Two, South Face (10/2000), II 5.6, 3 pitches
Tower Three, North Face, first ascent (4/2001), II 5.9R, 5 pitches
T.A.C., first ascent (4/2001), IV 5.8R, 18 pitches
West Face, first ascent (4/2000), II 5.6R, 4 pitches
West Ramps, solo (10/2001), II 5.5, 4 pitches
Xirtamartlu, first ascent (4/2001), IV 5.9R/X, 26 pitches
Lexington Tower (7,560 ft.), East Face (6/1996), III+ 5.9, 9 pitches
Liberty Bell (7,720 ft.),
Barber Pole Route (6/2007), III 5.8, 9 pitches
Becky Route (6/1994), II 5.6, 4 pitches
Liberty Crack (6/1997), V 5.10 A2, 12 pitches; 2 ascents
Overexposure (6/1994), II 5.8, 4 pitches
Thin Red Line (8/1998), V 5.9 A3, 12 pitches
Little Annapurna (8,440 ft.), South Face (6/1998), II 5.8, 6 pitches
Little Tahoma (11,138 ft.), East Route, solo (6/1997), II 45o
McClellan Peak (8,364 ft.), West Ridge including four of the Chessmen (7/1998), II 5.7, 4 pitches
Minuteman Tower (7,000 ft.) ,East Face (8/1998), III 5.10a, 5 pitches
North Early Winter Spire (7,760 ft.),
Northwest Corner (7/1996), III 5.9, 6 pitches, 2 ascents
West Face (8/1996), III 5.11a, 6 pitches, 2 ascents
Pennant Peak and the Flagpole (8,080 ft.), East Face (7/1999), III 5.6 C2, 5 pitches, 400m
Prusik Peak (8,000 ft.),
South Face (Bergner-Stanley) (1996), III 5.9+, 5 pitches; 2 ascents
South Face (Beckey-Davis) (8/2009), III 5.10a, 5 pitches
West Ridge (1998), II 5.7, 5 pitches
Mt. Rainier (14,411 ft.); 81 ascents,
Disappointment Cleaver (6/1992), II 40o
Emmons Glacier, solo (6/1994), II 35o
Gibraltar Ledges (4/1994), II 40o
Ingraham Direct, winter ascent (2/1994), II 45o
Liberty Ridge (5/1994), IV 50o
Mowich Face, solo (10/1998), III 50o
Nisqually Ice Cliff (4/1995), III 50o
Russell Cliffs Var. 1 (6/1998), III 50o
Russell Cliffs Var. 2 (6/1996), III 5.0 50o
Russell Cliffs Var. 3 (6/1997), III 60o
South Tahoma Headwall (7/1997), IV 55o
Success Cleaver (6/1997), III 45o
Winthrop Glacier (6/1995), II 40o
Notable speed ascent (6/1997): Emmons Glacier - Camp Schurman to summit: 1h, 56min.; 3h, 5min. r.t.
Sahale Peak (8,680 ft.), Quien Sabe Glacier (7/1996)
Seven Fingered Jack (9,077 ft.), West Route (7/2007)
Sharkfin Tower (8,120 ft.), Southeast Ridge (7/1996), II 5.0, 3 pitches
Sherpa Peak (8,605 ft.),
North Ridge (7/1998), IV 5.9, 12 pitches
West Ridge, solo (9/2002), II 5.6, 4 pitches
Mt. Shuksan (9,127 ft.), North Face and East Ridge Direct (6/1994), IV 5.5 50o
Silver Star Mountain (8,876 ft.), Silver Star Glacier (5/1994), II class 3 30o
Mt. Slesse (7,800 ft.), Northeast Buttress (8/1995), V 5.10, 26 pitches
Snow Creek Wall (3,900 ft.),
Hyperspace (6/2010), III 5.11a, 8 pitches
Iconoclast (6/2005), III 5.10c, 7 pitches
Mary Jane Dihedral (6/2006), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Orbit (7/1996), III 5.9, 6 pitches; 6 ascents
Outer Space (5/1994), III 5.9, 6 pitches; 8 ascents, 1 winter
White Slabs (6/1998), II 5.7, 6 pitches
South Early Winter Spire (7,807 ft.),
East Buttress Direct (6/1995), III+ 5.11a, 8 pitches
The Hitchhiker (7/2010), IV 5.11b, 9 pitches
Northwest Face (7/2006), III 5.11a, 8 pitches
The Passenger (7/2010), IV 5.11c, 7 pitches
South Buttress (6/2005), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Mt. Spickard (8,879 ft.), East Ridge (7/1999), II 5.0 50o, 500m
Mt. Stuart (9,415 ft.),
Complete North Ridge (6/1995), V 5.9, 31 pitches, 2 ascents
Girth Pillar (6/1998), V 5.10a A1, 20 pitches
Razorback Ridge (8/1999), IV 5.9, 18 pitches
West Ridge, solo (9/2002), III 5.6, 12 pitches
Stuart Range Traverse: 17 miles and eight peaks from Mt. Stuart to McClellan Peak (9/2002), 36 hours
The Talon (4,000 ft.),
North Face, first ascent (10/2001), I 5.9, 2 pitches
Southeast Face (4/2000), I 5.7, 3 pitches
South Face Direct, first ascent (4/2001), I 5.10c, 25 m
Tatoosh Range Traverse, North Ridge of Pinnacle, Castle, Unicorn, and Stevens peaks (6/2003), 5.6, 8 hours
The Tooth (5,604 ft.), South Face (5/1993), II 5.4, 4 pitches, 4 ascents
Mt. Triumph (7,270 ft.), Northeast Rige (7/2010), III 5.6
Vesper Peak (6,214 ft.), North Face (8/2009), II+ Class 5
West McMillan Spire (8,000 ft.), West Ridge (8/2010)
Whatcom Peak (7,574 ft.), South Route (8/2005), II Class 4
Witches Tower (8,520 ft.), West Ridge (6/1998), I 5.7, 2 pitches

Chugach Mountains:
Bomber Glacier Traverse, 30 mile alpine and glacial traverse (7/2002)
Eklutna Glacier Traverse, 40 mile glacial traverse (7/2001)
Hut Peak, West Ridge (7/2001), II 55o, 400 m
O’Malley Peak to the Wedge ridge traverse, Includes 4 summits, solo (6/2002), class 4
Mt. Ovis, South Ridge, solo (7/2001), II class 4, 800m
South Suicide Peak, East Face, first ascent, (12/2005), IV 80o, 700m,
Ptarmigan Peak traverse, 7 summits from Flat-Top Mountain to Powerline Pass Peak, solo (6/2002), class 4

Mexico Volcanoes:
Iztaccihuatl (17,342 ft.), South Ridge (12/1998)
La Malinche (14,640 ft.), North Route (12/1998)
Pico De Orizaba (18,700 ft.), West Face (12/1998)

Sierra Nevada:
Cathedral Peak (10,911 ft.), Southeast Buttress (8/2010), III 5.6, 5 pitches
Eichorn Pinnacle (10,680 ft.), North Face (8/2010), 5.4, 1 pitch
Mt. Conness (12,649 ft.), West Ridge (8/2010), III 5.6, 12 pitches
Matthes Crest (10,918 ft.), Traverse from N to S (8/2010), III 5.7, 8 pitches
Mt. Russell (14,094 ft.), Fishhook Arête (8/2010), III 5.9, 8 pitches
Tenaya Peak (10,280 ft.), Northwest Buttress (8/2010), III 5.5, 14 pitches
Mt. Whitney (14,505 ft.),
East Buttress (8/2010), III 5.7, 11 pitches
East Face (8/2010), III 5.7, 13 pitches

Yosemite Valley:
El Capitan,
Mescalito (9/1999), VI 5.10 A2+, 25 pitches
Salathe (10/1999), VI 5.12 C2-, 34 pitches
Tangerine Trip (10/2000), VI 5.8 C2+, 18 pitches
Zodiac (10/1997), VI 5.10 C2+, 16 pitches
Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face (9/1998), VI 5.10 A2, 22 pitches
Higher Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress (9/2000), IV 5.9, 10 pitches
Higher Cathedral Spire, South Face (9/2000), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Leaning Tower, West Face (9/1997), V 5.8 C2-, 10 pitches
Lost Arrow Spire, Direct South Face (10/1997), VI 5.10 A3, 18 pitches
Lower Cathedral Spire, South Face (9/2000), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Middle Cathedral Rock,
Central Pillar (9/2000), II 5.9, 5 pitches
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress (9/1999), IV 5.10c, 10 pitches
Royal Arches, Regular Route (9/2000), III 5.7, 12 pitches
Washington Column, The Prow (9/1997), V 5.8 C2, 12 pitches

Southwest U.S.: Desert Towers, Bigwalls, and Routes:

Arches National Park:
Argon Tower, West Face (4/2008), II 5.11, 3 pitches
Dark Angel, West Face (10/2009), I 5.10+, 2 pitches
Off-Balanced Rock, North Chimney (3/2007), I 5.6, 2 pitches
Owl Rock, Olevsky Route (3/2007), I 5.9, 2 pitches
The Three Gossips, West Face (4/2008), III 5.11, 3 pitches
The Three Penguins, Right Chimney (10/2009), II 5.10c, 2 pitches
Tower of Babel, Zenyatta Entrada (10/2009), IV 5.8 C3, 6 pitches

Canyonlands National Park:
Blocktop, Original Route (4/2008), IV 5.10 C2, 5 pitches
Charlie Horse Needle, North Face (10/2009), III 5.11c, 3 pitches
Chip Tower, Stuffin’ Nuts (4/2008), III 5.8 C1, 4 pitches
Dale Tower, Boy’s Night Out (4/2008), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches
Enigmatic Syringe, Altered Sanity (4/2008), III C3, 2 pitches
Islet in the Sky, Original Route (10.2009), IV 5.10 C3, 6 pitches
Meemohive (4/2008), III 5.9 C2, 4 pitches
The Mock Turtle, Mud Wrestling (10/2009), IV 5.10+, 5 pitches
Monster Tower, Kor Route (4/2008), IV 5.10 C2, 7 pitches
Moses, Primrose Dihedrals (3/2007), IV 5.11d, 7 pitches
The Pixie Stick, West Face (10/2009), III C3, 2 pitches
Shark’s Fin, Fetish Arête (4/2008), III 5.10+ R, 5 pitches
Standing Rock, Kor Route (4/2008), III 5.11, 4 pitches
Tiki Tower, Brave Little Toaster (10/2009), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches
Washer Woman, In Search of Suds (4/2008), III 5.10+, 5 pitches

Castle Valley:
Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route (3/2007), III 5.9, 4 pitches
Castleton Tower, North Chimney (3/2007), III 5.9, 4 pitches
Crooked Arrow Spire,(10/2009), III 5.8 C1, 2 pitches
The Nuns, Bad Habit (4/2008), II 5.11c, 3 pitches
The Priest, Honeymoon Chimney (4/2008), III 5.11, 4 pitches
The Rectory, Fine Jade (3/2007), III 5.11a, 4 pitches
Sister Superior, Jah Man (3/2007), III 5.10c, 4 pitches

Colorado National Monument:
Independence Monument, Otto’s Route (3/2008), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Sentinel Spire, Fast Draw (10/2009), II 5.10, 3 pitches

Comb Ridge:
Prayer Stick, Magic Man (10/2009), III 5.10+, 4 pitches

Dragoon Mountains:
Cochise Dome, What’s My Line (1/2002), II 5.6, 3 pitches
The Wasteland Pinnacle, Wasteland (1/2002), II 5.8, 6 pitches
Whale Dome, Moby Dick (1/2002), III 5.8, 6 pitches

Fisher Towers:
Ancient Art, Corkscrew Route (3/2007), II 5.10d, 4 pitches
Boxtop, North Face (10/2009), I 5.10, 1 pitch
The Cobra (3/2007), 5.11 R, 1 pitch, 2 ascents
Echo Tower, Phantom Spirit (10/2009), IV 5.9 C2+, 6 pitches
Kingfisher, Colorado Northeast Buttress (3/2007), IV 5.8 C2, 5 pitches
Lizard Spire, Entrance Fee (3/2007), I 5.8, 1 pitch
River Tower, North Face (10/2009), III 5.8 C2, 3 pitches
The Titan, Finger of Fate, solo (4/2008), IV 5.9 C2, 10 pitches

Indian Creek:
Easter Island Tower (4/2008), II 5.10, 2 pitches
King of Pain, Vision Quest (4/2008), III 5.10+, 4 pitches
North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks (4/2008), III 5.11a, 2 pitches
South Six Shooter, South Face (3/2008), II 5.8, 3 pitches
Sparkling Touch Tower (4/2008), 5.11-, 2 pitches
Sunflower Tower, East Face (4/2008), III 5.10, 3 pitches
Thumbelina Tower, Learning to Crawl (4/2008), 5.11, 1 pitch

Mexican Hat:
Mexican Hat, Bandito Route (10/2009), I C1, 1 pitch

Mill and Tusher Canyons:
Echo Pinnacle, Window Route (4/2008), III 5.11a, 3 pitches
The House of Putterman, Walden’s Room (4/2008), II 5.10+, 4 pitches

Onion Creek:
The Hindu, Maverick (10/2009), III 5.8 C2, 4 pitches

Red Rocks:
Black Orpheus (3/2005), III 5.10a, 10 pitches
Cat in the Hat Buttress (3/2002), II 5.6, 6 pitches
Crimson Chrysalis (3/2003), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Eagle Dance (3/2008), IV 5.10c A0, 9 pitches
Epinephrine (3/2002), IV 5.9, 18 pitches
Frogland (3/2008), III 5.8, 7 pitches
Geronimo (3/2003), II 5.7, 6 pitches
Johnny Vegas (3/2005), II, 5.7, 4 pitches
Levitation 29 (4/2003), IV 5.11c, 7 pitches
Olive Oil (3/2005), II 5.7, 6 pitches
The Prince of Darkness (4/2003), III 5.10c, 6 pitches
Solar Slab (3/2005), III 5.7, 8 pitches
Sour Mash (3/2008), III 5.10a, 5 pitches
Yellow Brick Road (3/2008), III 5.10c, 6 pitches

River Road (Moab):
Dolomite Spire, Kor Route (10/2009), III 5.9 C2, 4 pitches
Lighthouse Tower, Lonely Vigil (10/2009), II 5.10- R, 4 pitches

Superstition Mountains:
Grandfather Hobgoblin, (3/2008), III 5.9, 4 pitches
The Hand, Razor’s Edge, (3/2008), II 5.6, 3 pitches
The North Buttress, Spider Walk (3/2008), III 5.6 R, 4 pitches
The Periscope, (3/2008) 5.4 R, 1 pitch
The Pickle, (3/2008) 5.4 R, 1 pitch
The Prong, (3/2008) 5.6, 2 pitches
The Tower, (3/2008), II 5.8 R, 2 pitches

Valley of the Gods:
Eagle Plume Tower, South Face (10/2009), III 5.10, 4 pitches
Petard Tower, Hurley-Rearick Route (10/2009), II 5.9 C1, 3 pitches
Putterman in a Bathtub, It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Putterman (10/2009), II 5.9 C1, 2 pitches
Putterman on the Throne, Supercalifragilisticexpialiputterman (10/2009), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches

Zion National Park:
Angels Landing,
Lowe Route (4/2002), V 5.10 C2+, 14 pitches
Prodigal Sun, solo (4/2003), IV 5.8 C1, 10 pitches; 3 ascents
Cerebus Gendarme, Touchstone (4/2002), IV 5.10 C1, 8 pitches, 2 ascents
Desert Shield Buttress, Desert Shield (4/2002), V 5.11a C3, 10 pitches
Fang Wall, Fang Spire (5/2002), IV 5.9 C3, 7 pitches
Leaning Wall, Space Shot (4/2002), IV 5.10 C1, 8 pitches; 2 ascents
The Minotaur, Megamahedral (5/2002), III 5.10+, 6 pitches
Moonlight Buttress area,
Lunar Ecstasy (4/2002), V 5.10 C2+, 11 pitches
Moonlight Buttress, solo (4/2003), V 5.10 C1, 11 pitches; 3 ascents
Sheer Lunacy (4/2002), V 5.10 C2, 9 pitches
Muralla del Sol, Beyond the Pale (4/2002), VI 5.11a C3, 12 pitches
The Organ,
Organasm (4/2002), III 5.8 C2, 4 pitches
The Organ, Organ Grinder (4/2002), II 5.9+, 2 pitches
The Pulpit, Normal Route (3/2008), I 5.9 A0, 2 pitches
Spearhead Mountain, Iron Messiah (3/2008), III 5.10c, 10 pitches
Swoop Gimp Wall, Swoop Gimp, (4/2002), IV 5.10 C2+, 10 pitches
Temple of Sinawava, Monkey Finger (4/2002), III 5.10 C1, 9 pitches

Notable speed ascents:
Space Shot, Moonlight Buttress, and Prodigal Sun: 15 hours, 28 minutes car to car (4/2002).
Prodigal Sun, solo ascent: 7 hours, 15 minutes (4/2003)
Moonlight Buttress, solo ascent: 6 hours, 32 minutes (4/2003)
The Titan, Finger of Fate, solo onsight ascent: 8 hours, 53 minutes (4/2008)

North American Ice Routes:

Alaska:
Eklutna,
Mad Dog (3/2002), II WI 4, 20m
Boonesfarm (3/1998), II WI 3, 60m, 2 ascents
Ripple (3/1998), II WI 3, 65m, 2 ascents
Valdez,
Bridalveil Falls (3/2006), V WI 5, 600'
Keystone Greensteps (3/2006), V WI 5, 650', 2 ascents

Canadian Rockies:
Bison Falls (2/2003), III WI 3, 80 m
Carlsberg Column (2/2004), III WI 5, 90 m
Cascade (11/2003), III WI 3, 300 m
Cool Spring (2/2003), III WI 5+, 35 m
Curtain Call (2/2004), IV WI 6, 125 m
Gibraltar Wall (3/2003), II WI 4, 145 m
Hydrophobia (one day link-up with Sorcerer) (2/2004), IV WI 5+, 150 m
Ice Nine (2/2004), IV WI 6, 95 m
Lady Wilson's Cleavage, solo (11/2003), III WI 3, 300 m
Louise Falls (2/2003), II WI 4+, 110 m
Malignant Mushroom (2/2003), II WI 5, 55 m
Massey’s (2/2003), III, WI 4, 140 m
Merchison Falls (2/2003), III WI 4+, 180 m
N’ice Baby (2/2004), IV WI 5, 110 m
Oh Le Tabernac (2/2004), III WI 5+, 55 m
Polar Circus (2/2003), V WI 5, 700 m
Professor Falls (2/2003), III WI 4, 280 m
Red Man Soars (2/2007), IV WI 4 5.10
Snow Line (3/2003), III WI 4, 100 m
Sunshine Falls (2/2007), WI 3, 45m
The Sorcerer (2/2003), IV WI 5, 185 m, 2 ascents
This House of Sky, solo (11/2003), III WI 3, 500 m
Transparent Fool (2/2003), IV WI 5, 45 m
Weathering Heights (2/2003), III WI 4, 100 m
Weeping Wall (2/2003), II WI 4, 160 m
Whiteman Falls (2/2007), IV WI 6
Wicked Wanda (2/2003), II WI 4+, 80 m

Cody, Wyoming:
Mean Green with top WI6 variation (2/2008), IV WI6, 7 pitches
Broken Hearts, through 6th pitch (2/2008), IV WI 6, 6 pitches
High on Boulder and Pillar of Pain (2/2008), IV WI 5, 5 pitches
Moonrise (2/2008), III WI 5, 3 pitches
Dressed to Kill (2/2008), III WI 5, 1 pitch
Ovisight (2/2008), IV WI 6, 4 pitches
The Moratorium (2/2008), III WI 4, 2 pitches

Lillooet:
Icy BC (2/2000), II WI 5, 3 pitches
Night N’ Gale (2/2000), III WI 4, 5 pitches
Salmon Stakes (2/2000), III WI 3, 5 pitches

Washington State:
The Cable (2/2006), WI 6, 1 pitch
Champagne (2/2006), WI 5, 2 pitches
Children of the Sun (1/2005), WI 5, 1 pitch
Drury Falls (2/2006), IV WI5, 5 pitches
The Pencil (2/2006), WI 5, 3 pitches
Salt and Pepper (2/2006), 5.6, WI 5, 3 pitches
The Sundance Kid (1/2005), WI 5, 1 pitch
Tea in the Sahara (1/2007), WI 5, 2 pitches

Utah:
Stairway to Heaven (1/2008), WI5, 6 pitches

Africa:

Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,885 m), Machame Route (2/2009)

Asia:

China:
Camel Peak (5,484 m), South Glacier Route (10/2005)
Mt. Daogou (5,465 m), Salvage Op., first peak ascent (10/2005), V 5.10d
Lara Shan (5,700 m), American Standard, first peak ascent (4/2007), IV 70-degree ice
Peak 5,965 meters, Inglis-Puryear route, first peak ascent (10/2007), V 5.7 65-degree ice
The Angry Wife (5,020 m) ,Raindog Arête, first peak ascent (10/2005), IV 5.10c

Nepal:
Jobo Rinjang (6,778 m), South Face, first peak ascent (4/2009)
Kang Nachugo (6,735 m), South Face to West Ridge, first peak ascent (10/2008)
Kyajo Ri (6,168m), Southwest Ridge (4/2009)
Parchamo (6,273 m), North Ridge (10/2008)
Peak 5,766 meters, South Ridge (10/2008)
Peak 5,050 meters, West Face (10/2008)
Ramdung (5,925 m), Ramdung Glacier route (10/2008)
Takargo (6,771 m), East Face, first peak ascent, winter ascent (3/12/2010)
Yalong Ri (5,630 m), East Face (10/2008)

Nepal Ice Routes:
Beyul, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 700 meters
Broken Thumb, first ascent (2/2010), WI6, 2 pitches
Cousin-Brother Left, first ascent (2/2010), WI 4, 3 pitches
Cousin-Brother Middle, first ascent (2/2010), WI 5, 2 pitches
Cousin-Brother Right, first ascent (2/2010), WI3, 1 pitch
The Gateway, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 2 pitches
Nemari Left, first ascent (2/2010), WI5+, 4 pitches
Nemari Right, first ascent (2/2010), WI5, 5 pitches
NMIA Left (2/2010), WI4, 3 pitches
NMIA Right, first ascent (2/2010), WI5, 2pitches
Pagaga Falls, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 4 pitches
Sneaky Pinky, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 2 pitches
The Swath, first ascent (2/2010), WI3, 3 pitches

Europe:

Alps:
Blumlisalphorn (3664 m), North Wall (8/2002), D 55o, 700 m
Buufal, Farfallina (8/2002), 6b, 7 pitches
Diemtigtal, Syndrom (9/2009), 6a+, 5 pitches
Eiger (3,970 m), Mittellegi Ridge (8/2002), D 5.6, 800 m
Engelhorner, Klein Simelistock, Gagelfanger (8/2002), 6b+, 15 pitches,
Graue Wand, Conquest (8/2002), VIII (5.11d), 8 pitches,
Hintesberg, Escalera (9/2009), 6a, 6 pitches
Klein Bielenhorn Sudwand,
Hagar der Schreckliche, 6c, 4 pitches,
Novembertroeumli, 6b+, 8 pitches,
Lobhörner, (2,566 m), Herbstzyt E-W (9/2009), 5c+, 7 pitches
Meniggrund Pfeiler, Thuner Weg (9/2009), 5c+, 8 pitches
Monch (4,107 m), Northwest Ridge, Nollen Route (8/2002), D 60o, 1800 m
Tscharrenfluh Einstieg, Trans Sibiria (8/2002), 6a+, 6 pitches
Wissenflue,
Crescendo (9/2009), 6b+, 3 pitches
Stark mit Quark (9/2009), 6a+, 3 pitches
Wendenstock, Aureus (8/2002), 6c R, 10 pitches

South America:

Andes:
Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), Normal Route (1/1997), PD, 2700 m
Alpamayo (19,511 ft.), Southwest Face (7/2003), AD+, 650 m
Artesonraju (19,767 ft.), Southeast Face (7/2003), D, 800 m
Huascaran (22,205 ft.), Garganta Route (7/2003), PD, 3500 m
Ishinca (18,143 ft.), Northeast Ridge (6/2003), F, 500 m
Tocllaraju (19,797 ft.), Northwest Ridge (6/2003), AD-, 700 m
Urus Este (17,782 ft.), Southeast Ridge (6/2003), PD-, 800 m

Patagonia:
Guillamet (8,460 ft.),
Amy Couloir (1/2001), IV 5.6 65o, 300 m
Northeast Buttress (2/2001), IV 5.10d, 300 m

Other areas climbed:

Seward Highway, Alaska
Cochise Stronghold, Arizona: cragging routes (plus see above)
Granite Dells, Arizona
Joshua Tree National Park, California: 100+ routes
Yosemite, California: 50+ cragging and multi pitch routes (plus see above)
City of Rocks, Idaho
Red Rocks, Nevada: 50+ cragging routes (plus see above)
Smith Rocks, Oregon: 50+ routes
Potash Road/Kane Creek, Moab, Utah
Zion National Park, Utah: cragging routes (plus see above)
Frenchman Coulee, Washington: 150+ routes
Leavenworth, Washington: 150+ cragging and multi pitch routes
Little Si, Washington
Index, Washington: 50+ cragging and multi pitch routes (plus see above)
Mazama, Washington
The Tieton, Washington: 100+ cragging routes (plus see above)
Bear Spirit Crag, British Columbia, Canada
Haffner Creek, British Columbia, Canada
Squamish, British Columbia, Canada
Biji, Switzerland
Lammi, Switzerland
Lehn, Switzerland
Harder, Switzerland
Schilingsflue, Switzerland
Stadenflue, Switzerland
Wilderswil, Switzerland
Railay Beach, Thailand

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Oct 27, 2010 - 04:18pm PT

So sory to hear this.

roadman

climber

Oct 27, 2010 - 04:19pm PT

I'm so sorry for Joe's family. Very sad.

Brian

climber

California

Oct 27, 2010 - 04:19pm PT

Terrible news.

requiescat in pace

Brian

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Oct 27, 2010 - 04:31pm PT

hey there say, AKTrad.... and to mt. rainier associates, and climbers, and all that knew him...

my condolences and prayers to the family and friends of joe...

sadly, i knew fully know who these folks are, and worse yet, i only learn of them when they die---but each one, in this family of the greatoutdoors has shared parts of themselves in ways that help others, in life, far beyond what the ever know...

god bless... and as for joe's life, and all the guidance given, to those that were in his midst, thanks for being "forerunners" to so many others that needed you...

ryanb

climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 27, 2010 - 04:31pm PT

I only met Joe once when he and Michelle let three of us crash on their floor in leavenworth on our way to go ice climbing in eastern washington. He had just banged a hole in his lower lip dry tooling and it hurt to laugh but he couldn't help himself and spent part of the evening holding his lower lip away from his teeth with both hands while laughing hysterically in between taking laps around the makeshift drytool cave in his basement... he was truly a warm friendly individual as well as an amazing climber.

wbw

climber

'cross the great divide

Oct 27, 2010 - 05:06pm PT

This is terrible. Joe gave us beta and confidence navigating the melting Ruth Glacier in July, as we shared a campsite with Joe and Chad a few years ago. We were the only two parties in the Ruth, during conditions that were described as "committing" to us by the Talkeetna climbing rangers.

Great guy, great psyche, incredibly experienced. He sent me a very nice email after I had returned to Boulder, and I always thought it would be fun to cross paths with him again.

Along with Tyler Anderson, this is the second person in three months that I met in the mountains in recent years, who possessed a special combination of experience and friendliness, who died by falling through snow. They were both masters of their respective ranges.

I am terribly sorry for Joe's family.

TMO

Trad climber

Puyallup, WA

Oct 27, 2010 - 05:14pm PT

So very, very sorry for his family and friends. He was an inspiration, living the dream.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Oct 27, 2010 - 05:54pm PT

Joe was one of the great ones. He had the rare combination of possessing amazing talents and being just a great guy. Its hard to accept what happened. He just had so much great energy.

I met Joe when he approached me to publish his Alaska book. I had never been to AK so Joe proposed a trip. It was one of the best climbing trips of my life. Partially because we got to climb so much. Partially because we just had a great time hanging out in the spectacular Ruth Gorge. We climbed a bunch of routes and a new climb Goldfinger but also just had a great time goofing off. He had mastered the art of big and long climbing trips: climbing hard is just as important as having fun when the weather is bad.

Here is a video slide show from the trip

After the trip, I was fired up to get the book done. Mainly, it was because Joe was even more obsessed than me on creating a really detailed and informative guide. In fact, a few months into the editing I was starting to slack off on the layout. Joe called me out on it and proposed he finish the layout. He didn't have much design experience, but I bought him a copy of Indesign, gave him a few pointers and he was off. Within a few months, he knew more about layout and design than me and the book actually got done! After finishing Alaska Climbing, he went on to start a design business. He combine a quick grasp of design with his amazing photos in Sherpa Gear Catalogs.

Joe climbed a ton of technical peaks and brought back incredible photos. you can read stories and see his images on his web site.

One of my favorite trip reports i have ever read is his I Love The Desert TR that he posted here on SuperTopo. That photo essay really captures how much he loved climbing, the outdoors, sending, and sharing.

I will miss Joe a lot. We didn't get to hang out nearly enough but I always loved riding along through his trip reports, stories and photos.

Sending my best thoughts to his amazing wife Michelle who shared many adventures with Joe and was a gracious host for our Alaska trip.

Once the shock wares off I'll post some more stories and photos. There were just so many!