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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 14, 2005 - 09:02pm PT
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I know there was a fixed pin for a long time Werner and the bolt didn't offend me either. In fact somebody asked Steck about it later and Steck said it was fine with him.
The reason it brought it up is because Duecy posted up higher in the thread something that made Walt seem like a holy anti-bolt guy and I wanted to add perspective.
I'm told Walt added a bolt belay to OZ as well. I don't give a crap.
See, when everybody looks back and see the hardmen of the past and think that they were absolutely pure they use it as justification for their own Taliban attitudes.
But let's not try to get in the eternal bolt debate here. There are plenty of nearby thread for it
peace
karl
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Dec 14, 2005 - 11:06pm PT
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It's hard talking about Walt. I miss his crazy calls, a couple times a year. I miss his complaints about the world. He was pissed off that no girls would seem to even look at him anymore. "We're just old crawdads, man!" I miss his craziness and I miss his pain. I miss our conversations, even though I can't remember what many of them were.
I always wondered what he was so frustrated about. Why he had to blast himself so much. I shouldn't assume too much, but he was focused and happy when he was climbing and kayaking. Like those things gave his brain and his heart enough to keep him occupied. Just like for the rest of us, i suppose. Maybe when he wasn't occupied he had to dull his brain to keep from being bothered by all the stupidity in this world. I could relate to that, but I never asked him.
A lot of people have remarked about how smart he was. It makes sense, though I never really thought about it. Just took him for granted.
I received an email from a college classmate of Walt's who said that Walt got him through a lot of Physics problems that would have otherwise defeated him. He also described how they would climb to the top of the pine trees in front of the dorm, get stoned and watch the traffic go by. I could relate to that.
I always thought that Walt might help get me killed someday, rather than the other way around. I had not climbed with him since the early 1980s, I think. We continued to kayak together occasionally even as I boated less and less and he got better and better. He and Bill boated a lot, but Walt really had the composure and the fearlessness to charge into the craziness that water can be. Water is as insane and weird as anything in this world, and yet its amazingly beautiful and fun. Life.
Water is more forgiving than gravity, but more unpredictable as well. Yet at times completely unforgiving. Lots of people who run whitewater have been in the situation that took Walt, but we were released, or got help in time. Or took the time to look at a bad spot and so avoided it.
I remember meeting Tom at the Creek and then Bill and Walt showed up! Wow! Great, hadn't expected them at all. Then the guy from back east, Chuck. The road through the campgrounds was closed, but Tom new an alternate route on the other side of the creek. It was fun driving the narrow lane till it dwindled away, then wandering on foot downhill to the creek.
The creek was full, but it felt like the perfect flow. Fast, exciting and fun. We were all totally up, leapfrogging down through the rapids. One person leading, then the next person and then the next in line. We bombed through the campgrounds, then under the road into a gravel bar section. A long rapid steepened and the water picked up speed to a horizon line. Everyone pulled over, considering the long walk to peer over and scout.
I laughed, "It just funnels together towards that big boulder, then blasts right. Go with the flow!"
Walt Charged. Then the next, then I. Down the funnel and into the boiling cushion off the boulder. I looked right and Walt had bounced too far right into a tiny eddy in a corner of the rock. He was fighting to turn his boat back out into the current. His eyes were huge, but his grin was bigger. A minute later, we all gathered in a big eddy and laughed histerically. The fun meter was pegged over.
Onwards and downwards, dropping over or sliding down one amazing drop after another. Through a mellow section past a girl scout camp till it steepened up into a long section of bedrock slides and ledges. I was back a ways for some reason. Tom was on shore waving me down the right side of a long slide.
Paddling around the corner I came to Bill, Walt and Chuck looking at a horizon line leading into the most serious section. Three ledges led to a short pool, then a slide and a big falls. The bottom ledge was a perfect crescent, 4 foot high and vertical. We would have to sneak the right edge, then get out on the left bank to portage, though knowing Walt, I figured he might run the falls if he had a look at it. One of them was starting to push up onto the shore to take a look.
I was the only one who had seen the creek from this point down, and I knew the routes from multiple trips. I paddled up to the lip, paused for a look that was only to get a sense of what was hidden. I charged over, punched a reversal and eddied out. Bill was up next. I held out my arm straight indicating the same line that I took, against the right edge. He paddled over the drop and into my same eddy. Chuck peered over but I signalled a different line, out farther from shore. He charged over but sank deeper into the foam, before punching through. Wrong route. Walt waited and I signaled a line back closer to shore. The same line as Bill? Or in between? I don't remember. Walt started stroking and simultaneously I paddled out into the current to make room in the eddy.
And that was it. That was all it took.
I ran the next ledge and did not try to catch the tiny eddy but paddled frantically for the right edge of the third ledge. I dropped over and relaxed in the pool below. There was steady current but not strong on the left side and I waited. Bill dropped over immediately behind me. He must have peeled out right with me and not seen Walt's run.
We were excited to be there. I started describing the whole situation, the falls below, the portage route, exculting in the beauty of the place. Bill started taking out on the left, when a paddle came down on the right. I paddled over to pick it up and realized that I couldn't pick it up without drifting into the next rapid and the falls. I felt stupid, let it go, and paddled back to the left shore to get out.
By the time I got out onto shore, Bill was heading upstream even the lowest ledge. I heard him shouting and it didn't make any sense.
"Walt's still in the hole! Walt's still in the hole"
I saw someone standing on the right shore, maybe in a pothole like depression. Maybe he couldn't work his way downstream on that side. Then something was floating downstream through the second drop. I couldn't really tell, but it could have been a lifejacket. "Shit!" But it was bigger and it came closer, then dropped over the ledge in front of me. He was face into the water perfectly displayed, spread eagle, suspended in the falls for an instant. Then into the foam, and up and back in.
I'm screaming at Bill,"Get him! Get him!" And then Walt was out floating toward my position. "Throw the rope! Throw the rope!"
Bless him Bill had his rope in his hand. Mine was still in my boat. He threw it perfectly along side Walt's path. I dove, knowing what was downstream, knowing that he had no chance if he got by me. Knowing what chance I had if I couldn't get back to shore.
I did get him and Bill did swing us in, but you know the rest.
Sorry if this is totally inappropriate or over the top.
Paul
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 14, 2005 - 11:11pm PT
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PEACE guys!! This is about remembering Walt....a great topic(for a change)for this forum, some great stories about a great guy! Got introduced to Walt in Tuolumne years back and spoke with him about his chronic shoulder dislocation and kayaking, he had just returned from one of his adventures. He was most gracious for the advice and everytime after that I saw him he never failed to thank me for "helping" HIM. What a great, unique person, his spirit lives on in our memories.
How 'bout more climbing, kayaking and memories of Walt.
Great stories Paul
Peace
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 14, 2005 - 11:18pm PT
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Thanks Paul for the story.
Me and Merry went to Fresno and met his body just before the guy put him in the cremator. We bought some flowers and laid them over his body and chanted some prayers before the guy made his body into ashes. No one was there, I believe it was too much for his mom and dad to take, as they loved him so much.
Thus from that point on he became the legend that lives on as his spirit in these memories.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 15, 2005 - 07:46am PT
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thanks Paul
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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2005 - 08:19am PT
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Thanks Paul for describing what happened that day.
I once heard an interview with Adria Belew (not sure how to spell it) right after Frank Zappa died. The interviewer was asking something to the effect of "Well it must be sad for you ..." and Belew said, "No, because I've got all these great mental home movies" basically affirming how lucky he felt to have known and worked with the man. That's how I feel about Walt and I know a lot of others do too.
There is a boulder near the Camp 4 parking lot where some of us would go to smoke occasionally. It has an easy 5th class route to a flat summit, about 15-20 ft. high. Somewhat ranger proof at least back then. There was a tree a few feet away from the boulder, far enough that you couldn't reach it, with a horizontal dead snag at right about eye-level. By way of descent, Walt would invariably leap out into the abyss, catch the branch like a trapeez artist while laughing like a maniac and then down-climb the tree. It seemed ill-advised and in fact the branch was broken off at some point though I don't know the circumstances.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 15, 2005 - 11:44am PT
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Leave it to you and Merry to do such a thing for him, hope I have people like you around when my time comes.
Peace
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 15, 2005 - 12:20pm PT
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A beautiful thread.
Why can't we have more? As I said recently in a thread not expected to become acrimonious, couldn't we at least agree that Yoko can't sing?
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DirtyDave
climber
Colorado
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Dec 15, 2005 - 03:03pm PT
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I'm turning up the way back machine, as I spent the majority of my time with Walt in college. His antics were well in place at that time! I would best describe Amos as an exciting combination of a super brilliant mind, electrifying energy, and a devilish mischievousness that reveled in blowing other peoples minds by doing the unthinkable. I believe his mind typically operated out of the box that most of us confine ourselves to, and seeing that, he would regularly do that which he knew was going to rock your world.
As a fellow engineering student with Walt, I frequently found his poor study habits with his getting the high grade in the class on 2 out of 3 exams unbelievable. One night before a major physics exam, he approached me sporting a half quaffed six pack. After futlile attempts to convince me to join him, "f#@% physics anyway" he mumbled. The next morning I found him frantically reviewing the example problems in the chatpers he had yet to read. But to no ones amazement, he pulled off the high score yet again.
Or anyone who has had the dissappointing experience of watching a movie with Walt knows this one. Typically less than 15 minutes into the flick he would anounce "standard plot number XX" and we would try not to listen as he would ruin the show by detailing how it was going to end in excruciatingly accurate detail.
At a party in a second floor dorm room, Walt well on his way to a buzz any college boy would envy, disappeared. Soon some girl at the window was screaming. It turned out to be just Walt, hanging 2 floors up, upside down by his toes hooked on the lip of the roof, making wild noises to make sure his presence was known.
Another early Walt-Show. Just after meeting him, he brought me to his dorm room to demonstate his bat hooking route he'd developed (much to his roommates shock) around the ceiling with the crux move out the door into the dormatory hallway. He was soon there after tossed from the dorm when he pulled the hanging panel ceiling in his room to the floor. Of course Walt was no stranger to authority, as his mind blowing antics usually caught the attnetion of some suthority. Like the time he 'had' to climb the rock facia wall on the outside of the bank in Manteca. Of course the knew not to check for new routes during business hours, so he stealthed over early one sunday morn, only to end up arrested as a randon cop was driving the area and couldn't miss the young man on the roof of a bank!
God bless him, he had quite an appetite for life,
DI
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 15, 2005 - 03:46pm PT
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Thanks for that Story and and a good description of Walt's "outside the box" world. He really did have a talent for blowing minds.
I got busted for a skyhook traverse outside a 3rd floor dorm window as well.
peace
Karl
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 15, 2005 - 04:04pm PT
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Damn.
Now I'm really REALLY pissed I didn't get to know him.
A kindred spirit for sure!
(I got the belated boot from Hackley despite a 790 on the Math SAT thanks to a little climb I did the night before the Vice President visited the school...)
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 12:56am PT
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one more thanxs to kevin, i remember walt as always trying some manky climb some where weird. but memories are what you make them.
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Dog
climber
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Dec 16, 2005 - 07:27pm PT
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Thanks for the story Paul.
I always wondered what actually happened on that day.
Hard to believe.
One story that Id heard a hundred times over was after one of these Walt style, all afternoon, liquid picnics he says, How about a Meatgrinder free solo? To my buddy he says, you go first so if I go, I dont take you along.The guy had a heart make no mistake.
Turns out,the story says, he skates and catches with a blood flowing head jam.Can you see him telling this story with all the dramatics? Just like yesterday for me.
He always had some crazy ass story that was a hoot!
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Dec 17, 2005 - 02:07pm PT
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Thank you to everyone who has shared their stories and to everyone for the kind reception to my tale. It has amazed me reading these stories and listening to people at the memorial, how little I knew about my friend, or maybe how little I paid attention. Thanks Kevin for starting this thread and to Karl and Deuce about being honest in trying to understand Walt.
Thank you Werner and Merry for being there at the last for him.
Thanks Dave for the wonderful college stories. I want to chat more with you.
There was a brief time in 82 or 83 when Walt and I climbed every weekend on a number of beautiful moderate grade 4 routes. I loved wandering off into the unknown heights with him.
Up on Geek Towers, the sun got to me bad. Must have been dehydrated, as I felt terrible and could not continue. But there was a hole in the route, big enough for me to crawl back into, where it was a bit cooler and shaded. Walt just stationed himself in the opening, blocking the sun and occasionally giving me sips from the little water we had. I probably slept awhile. As I recuperated we chatted just a bit. After a couple hours, I crawled back out of the hole and we continued on to the top.
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DirtyDave
climber
Colorado
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Dec 18, 2005 - 01:21pm PT
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Karl, I enjoy your thoughts on Walt, largely because its seems we both seek to understand what made Walt so different.
To say his personality was unique is a vast understatement. Of course we are all unique, but Walt pegged the meter in a very compelling way. I keep coming back to his love of doing the unthinkable, especially with an audience. For me I think its because I unconsciously fell pray to the social pressure of doing what was deemed socially acceptable, or else face the wrath of being rejected, while Walt didn't seem to have that same metal constraint. In fact he seemed to revel in it.
For instance (and I'll have to thank the Fish for jogging this memory in me with his telling of the 'Octo-penis' tale), oh wait.
DISCLAIMER, this Walt-Show tale may contain offensive material for women. Of course Walt was not sexist. Heavily bitter indeed, or as Sam Kineson once said, 'You would'nt want him to be the deciding member on a f*#king jury or anything'.
Anyway, here goes. Back at Fresno State, 1976-ish, in the warm spring days, the frat boys would regularly through huge 50 keg type beer busts Friday afternoons, TGIF. Oddly, these keggers were packed, and the hot weather brought out the skimpy outfits in the ladies. One such hot afternoon found Walt, myself, and Fred (another engineering nerd) in the middle of the sea of beer swilling kids. Now Walt of course had taken a different tack recently, and had taken to Two Fingers Tequilla. He had evangelically sold its superior qualities to Fred and I, but to no use, we stayed with the bargain beers. That preface was to clue you into Walt having a superior buzz at this point in the story. Walt out of nowhere says, 'I bet I can get that girl to slap me', pointing to a nearby babe. Now, knowing Walt as we all do, what do you think we said? He promptly trots over, says 'hi', and then places his hands over her breasts, about as close as you could get them without touching them, and starts saying 'Ma ma ma ma' (Walt speak for mammories). To Walt's credit he didn't even raise a hand to block or even turn his face, but took the open hand slap squarely on the face. Humiliation for most, was electrifying for Walt. He came back beeming with an evil gleem in his eyes, and told us to pick out his next victim! Stunned, and wondering what it was going to take to humilitate him, we picked the hottest girl in eyesite, and pointed to her. Instantly, without having to gather his nerve or prepare himself, he boldly stode off towards his next victim. Same lead in by Walt as last time, however instead of slapping Walt, she curses him, turns and yells to her boyfriend to get over there right away. A quick glance revealed the boyfriend to be a tall massively developed Bulldog football player, who began coming their way. Walt bolted into the crowd in a very necessary fashion, and was long gone by the time the boyfriend was briefed on what had transpired.
Now I know this story is offensive for women and traumatic on the ladies involved, and none of us would care to be on the receiving end of one of Walt's fabled antics, but I use it to demostate how his mind did not have the same limits as most of us do. When you were running with Walt, you never quite knew what might come next.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 18, 2005 - 03:58pm PT
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Is it just me or does it seem that being interesting or inspirational often seems to act like a curse? Sort of the "only the good die young" kind of deal.
Even without the smart disclaimer it was a good story. Thanks.
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DirtyDave
climber
Colorado
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Dec 18, 2005 - 04:15pm PT
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Yes I agree, almost like a shooting star, very bright but short lived.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 19, 2005 - 01:02pm PT
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Paul - that was very appropriate. Thank You. I didn't know the whole story. As a boater maybe I was too scared to even ask.
And thanks to everyone else that has related stories. This is why supertopo is still worth the visit.
I didn't know Walt - never had the pleasure to meet him. I tried one of his routes once. You could tell when the tall guy (walt) established a pitch and when the short guy (klaus) established a pitch (Re-Animator).
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G-ville Climbing Club
Social climber
Nevada
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Dec 29, 2005 - 10:16am PT
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Well I ran into Walt in the Lodge Cafeteria, he had just returned from a solo of the south face of Half Dome. You know the time he almost died in the snowstorm. He was so alive and excited he was telling the story of his escape from the wall to who ever would listen. The description of him being wired was right on. I had never met him before or really even met him then. He just talked none stop about a very intense experience with a joy that was very inspiring.
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M3(mad moderate mtnr)
Mountain climber
Sac'to, CA
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Dec 29, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
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Never met Walt, but followed his story and then learned of his passing soon after relocating to Sac'to myself in '99. Although I can't claim to be NEAR the outdoorsman Walt was, I DID find in him a kindred (tortured) spirit reveling in the unconventional. The string of stories about Walt only confirm that sense of the shared.
While I never had the pleasure of spending time with Walt, I did meet his neighbor and long-time friend of his Mom & Step-Dad at a free Jazz concert in Sacto last year. I forget her name, but we had some interesting discussions about Walt. Both the family friend & I are nurses, and I had my two young children (girl 1yo, boy 3yo) along. She mentioned Walt's tortured childhood, his love for and from his Mom and sister, and how she appreciated his wild zaniness. She enjoyed my stories of wilderness adventures as a way of vicariously learning about this side of Walt, and enjoyed my thoughts on how having my own children had softened my hard edge, which I ascribed to a tortured childhood myself. Talking with her helped guide me to attempt to provide my children with a love for adventure and the great outdoors, while trying not to let my sharp edges cut them and callous them to the love that is in this world. Guiding them as their father through life is one of the toughest adventures of my life.
I am sure from my conversation with Walt's neighbor & friend that his mother would love to have this string of stories forwarded onto her. They will surely bring both tears & smiles, as I am sure raising Walt into manhood must have done. As a father of children struggling to understand this wonderful world, I sense that she would count as precious treasures the best & the worst memories you've each described in this string.
May we all find that bit of love that Walt's mother had for him, hold it dear, hold it near as we too pass through this amazing journey called life.
Namastae!
M3
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