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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Oct 22, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Hey Bob (Palais?)
I remember you from Cathedral Ledge BITD.
You kept me alive on a dozen eggs and a handful of rice (and a lot of 'Chicken of the Woods) for four days.
I still have/use the chalk bag I traded you for gas money ;)
Any whooooo....
You and Lepton..?
Was that when (somebody in C-4/you guys?) got Curry burger joint hair nets, dreaded your hair (corn row braids actually) and did the 'Reggae Ascent' ?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
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Thanks Trundleman!
Ah HA, I found some of the better pix, sooooo, I'll be sharing those now!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Oct 22, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
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Nice shot! that's my favorite pitch, number 16 i think, maybe the best 5.9 pitche i've done.
here's another shot of it from above
here's a recent shot of the alcove, pitch 20
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 22, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
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Maybe I'll post some images later. Not sure whether to be a killjoy on this thread or not.
Probably done the route a half-dozen times. I think it's one of the most disappointing routes in the valley (given the obvious expectation of being on the incredible NW face of Half Dome, it would be the finest route around anywhere else in the world)
It's a long ass hike, you don't feel the face nor the exposure for about 16 pitches, rockfall is common and crowds are horrendous (and few alternatives once you've done the hike. There's very little classic climbing unless you lieback 5.11+.
Not to mention the hauling is reputed to be hell (wouldn't be sure as I've always done it in a day or one down-coat bivy)
I avoid it, even though twenty-something moderate pitches is kinda cool for sure.
Feel like it's one of those routes people do to say they did it, but dang Half Dome...it's so huge, and so beautiful, but how come it's this huge massive piece of amazing granite with so few true accessible classics. Give me Middle Cathedral any day.
Peace
karl
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Oct 22, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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Probably done the route a half-dozen times.
Why in the heck would you do that if it's so disappointing? Sourpuss!
Sounds like a personal problem.....
Either you don't have enough imagination, or you weren't any good at telling different partners no to something you didn't want to do.
It's all good though, this thread needs a little controversy!
I've only done HD twice, once on the Reggae, once on the Direct. I've never repeated an El Cap route yet either, nyaah nyaaah!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 23, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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I wrote
Probably done the route a half-dozen times.
Survival wrote
Why in the heck would you do that if it's so disappointing? Sourpuss!
It's disappointing compared to what you'd expect on that fantastic face. Spend 30 years focusing on Valley climbing and you forget just enough to return every 5 years or so. And sometimes people who I love to climb with just gotta do it!
I wouldn't be surprised if I do it again! and I'd be excited to do it if I knew there wouldn't be a clusterf*#k crowd scene and I got a donkey ride to the base. I guess I'm a pleasure seeker!
Did the direct once too. It's more chossy even, and has sh#t chimney, but it's much more "out there" on the face and has nice bivy ledges.
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D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
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Oct 23, 2010 - 12:46am PT
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I love the Reggae route! It is so fun to rocket up 23 pitches of awesome moderate climbing. The history is terrific (Robbins traverse, and now Honnold solo), the endless free climbing is FUN, and in-a-day, or bivied out on big sandy either way it is an adventure! How many big walls are featured on the Quarter? $.25 ? And to those of you who say that a three hour hike is too far? Perfect. It is too far. And too steep. And the spring at the base of the route is poisonous. Never go up there.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 12:58am PT
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Too far to hike in BUMP!!!!
Closer to the road please.
Thank you.
J
Spoken just like an El Cap climber....
Ahhh, Jeremy is back! That makes me happy.
Packing for the fun trip past the tourons down the cables!
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Oct 23, 2010 - 08:21am PT
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there is not much to tell..we bailed from the base after talking to other retreating climbers(falling rocks and ice)..but i thought you took some pics of our silly get ups..maggie had braided "dreds"ect...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 10:16am PT
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I remember that, Maggie was a sweety from what I remember. But I don't remember taking any pix. If I did, I sure as heck don't know where to find them!
Although I definitely swiped the name reggae route from Lepton!! That guy would make me laugh until my face hurt.
He was killing me with his multiple personalities on Tribal Rite. He called matches "Reggae chez", and a lighter was "Power chez"!!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 23, 2010 - 11:24am PT
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Standing in for Peter. Nice shots squatch (particularly the first one)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Thanks Mike! I'll give you some more to play with later!
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Oct 23, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
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Conditions this morning
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Oct 23, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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looks like a reggae party...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 10:13am PT
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Mel the light bagger, forced to deal with the "pig".
Mua Ha Ha Ha hahaaa!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 10:26am PT
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The beauty of Mt. Watkins, Tenaya canyon and some high country!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Oct 27, 2010 - 03:45am PT
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