Ueli Steck - The Swiss Machine

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blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Nov 11, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
Saw the Reel Rock footage of Honnold and Steck.
Honnold didn't seem to be into playing Steck's games.
Could just be the editing, but Steck came across as a seriously weird dude who will likely die climbing.
Obviously he is an incredible climber so no reason to bust my balls if you disagree--just watch the video and draw your own conclusions. It's very interesting if nothing else.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 11, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Didn't think I would see a "Hey you kids get off my lawn!!" comment here...
Johnny K.

Mountain climber
Southern,California
Nov 11, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder

Nov 11, 2010 - 09:29am PT
Saw the Reel Rock footage of Honnold and Steck.
Honnold didn't seem to be into playing Steck's games.
Could just be the editing, but Steck came across as a seriously weird dude who will likely die climbing.
Obviously he is an incredible climber so no reason to bust my balls if you disagree--just watch the video and draw your own conclusions. It's very interesting if nothing else.

A seriously weird dude who will most likely die climbing? :slaps forehead:

lol dont get it twisted.Even when it is fact that Alex didnt agree with alot of Uelis climbing and methods(detaching from the gri gri etc etc).There is a difference of comprehension between techniques and respect.Alex is not going to tell Ueli "he will most likely die climbing"Sure something might be so dangerous that the risks are not comprehended by others,but for another person it is what he/she does.If everyone did the samething and thought the same,then no one would be thinking,there would be nothing new to explore.So not to bust your balls,but perhaps you shouldnt go around saying "that guy come across like he is going to likely die while climbing".=D
Anyone can likely die from anything,anywhere,at anytime.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 11, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
Perhaps before this thread falls into becoming another unhappy exchange, we can recall the stunning word of the great blind scholar, Helen Keller:


"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than exposure." - Helen Keller (1880 - 1968)
DanaB

climber
Philadelphia
Nov 11, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
Didn't think I would see a "Hey you kids get off my lawn!!" comment here...

How true.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 11, 2010 - 04:36pm PT
Did Steck repeat Metanoia ?
Spiky

Trad climber
Wales
Nov 11, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
Don't forget his role in the rescue attempt of Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna in 2008 for which he received the 'Spirit of Mountaineering' award from the Alpine Club.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 9, 2011 - 02:42am PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-dPjDYVKUY
Gearhead

Trad climber
Novato Ca
Apr 9, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Badass of the week!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Apr 9, 2011 - 11:55am PT
BITD when I was speed climbing we used swamis and hip belayed every pitch. None of that short fixing nonsense. We wore hobnail boots and carried a rack of pins. The kids these days just don't understand what real climbing is with their cam wedges and sticky shoes.
nature

climber
Kovalum Kerala India
Apr 9, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
Hey.... The Larry.... just curious.... did you measure your speed climbings with a calendar?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Apr 9, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Sun dial.
steve shea

climber
Apr 9, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
Peter Haan has it right. I remember my first trip onto the Argentierre and saw Jean Marc Boivin's boot track up the Swiss Route on the NF Les Courtes and his ski descent tracks about three feet away. Speechless is not adequate. As I stood there tying to grasp what I was seeing, we're talking 60deg, I realized the man was an alpine freak of nature but absolutely prepared. This was no lucky folly. Having done the 38 Route on the Eiger and the Colton/ Mac on the Jorasses, I can tell you these films for me are absolute palm sweaters. That aerial shot of the traverse of the gods had me about to soil my britches. Obviously the man is prepared to accept the risk and the consequences and has dealt with that and put it in a place that allows him to climb fast and solo. Human spirit, so what if he gets paid.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Apr 9, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Ueli is a super nice guy who works harder than almost anyone I've ever met in the climbing world. He works at the training, he works at the planning, and he works at all the boring stuff that goes around it, the parts that make it feel like a real job as opposed to a full-time hobby.

In serious alpine, the risk is just vastly greater than it is in comparable levels of rock climbing. Watching him on Eigerwand is really hard for me. And it isn't the most technical sections that I find tough to watch, but rather some of the easier but dicey ground where he's willing to accept imperfect placements in order to hit his pace.

But it's not like he climbs like this as part of a regular outing. He trained and planned obsessively for each of these speed ascents.

I think he's at the point where he'd like to get out of this part of the game. I know that several of the last expeditions were really grueling for him. I don't think I'm talking out of school here, because he's given at least one or two interviews to Swiss media last year where he admitted as much.

The cutting edge in alpinism is just so frickin brutal now. It took me only two seasons climbing with folks who were really good and really ambitious to realize that I had zero interest in dealing with the levels of uncertainty and misery required.
nature

climber
Kovalum Kerala India
Apr 9, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
It does make you wonder if The Larry owned a Swiss Sundial. Probably more accurate than the chinese jobs anyway....
mickg22

Mountain climber
Sweden
Apr 10, 2011 - 05:25am PT
I hear the May issue of Climbing has an article on Steck...
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