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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2010 - 11:10am PT
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Ultra-classic Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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...fer tha weekend!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Hamie lent me his copy last spring, and I took it to Bridwellfest to get it autographed by the Bird. Jim and Hamie spent quite a lot of time together in the Valley in 1964 - 65, and I believe that Hamie was the first Canadian after Jim Baldwin to spend much time climbing in the Valley. Hamie and Jim may not have seen each other since then, so it was nice for them to have some indirect contact.
Hamie also had a nice photo of Jim coming to the top of one of the Cathedral Spires.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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No similarity with respect to climbing photos. Too much content in the later guides to indulge!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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my four-foot shelf of climbing guides still includes my much-battered and annotated red guide kept in a plastic sleeve (with several inaccuracies noted)
also my roper high sierra guide and brown ortenburger tetons guide and tahquitz and gunks guides from the same era, and subsequent versions including the yosemite green guide...
wishing i had more copies of mooglenews, but i think royal has a pretty complete stash
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Randisi, the Red Book is actually small, only slightly larger and thinner than the later Green Book. The Red Book can still be found online too. They go for more than $140 in perfect shape.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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i paid $400.00.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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i paid $400.00.
Holy SH*T!!!!
You coulda almost got the Art Gran Gunks guide for that and it'a a whole lot rarer.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Dec 11, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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i love that red book. i'll save as much as i can to get my hands on it. $400.00 from chesslers.
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jstan
climber
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Dec 11, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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I think I have opened my copy of Roper's guide maybe three times total. My copy of Gran's guide is rather more used. I think it the most readable guide I have ever seen. Belay that. Kelsey's supplement to Gran's guide is better.
I do have a copy of a book titled "Redwoods" with a picture of the Nose seen in profile taken through the trees. Shot in 1943. So much has changed since then.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 11, 2010 - 04:13pm PT
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So classic. Had a copy of the green but the red was considerably before my time.
I look at those photos and think 'those were men.' You really had to want it to do it back then. You knew it was going to be hard, it was hard and you were OK with that. Just awesome.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 11, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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Here is the red and green Roper guides shown together on my desk. This red is a replacement I bought a few years ago for my extremely worndown original red which is somewhere in my heap. It had to endure being in my back pocket as a teenager climber...god how stupid. The green I bought within a month of its publishing, 1971. You can see the red is taller and wider but is about half as thick.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 22, 2011 - 07:23pm PT
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I just got my red guide in the mail today, and drove down to a little local bookstore a mile from my house that had the green book.
I've got a work deadline in the next 53 minutes, but I couldn't help myself from ogling the fine drawings. Now I finally know where that damn Ski Jump is! And Pohono Pinnacle! And I'm plotting some unrelated secret adventures for the spring and summer.
Le_bruce, you will learn to rue the day I acquired these guides. Or you will whisper sweet nothings in my ear (during an unplanned bivy of course).
Adventure season is upon us.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 22, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
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nice rebump
where is "Black Wall" - lower yosemite falls amphitheatre?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
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Tom Frost recently told me that David Brower was behind the photo content in the red guide. Clearly a part of his larger image driven wilderness education and appreciation mission through the Sierra Club.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 22, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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As long as Supertopo and other guide producers continue with their skimpy "selected" theme for Valley guides---whether openly stating so or still editing out many climbs without disclosure---and as long as they remain reluctant to publish the really badly needed comprehensive obviously large guidebook to the most important rockclimbing venue in the world, the Red and the Green are actually much more interesting guides than anything that has come out since. And more, emphasized climbs in these newer books will continue to get overclimbed---in fact to death for god's sake. Amazing isn't it, considering that these wonderful little guides were published 47 and 40 years ago.... I mean jesus christ, can't we do better than this? Since then the guides have been edging ever closer toward seeming like AAA monthly magazines with their little 3-day trip suggestions.
When each of them was published, the Red and the Green were the comprehensive and definitive volumes on the subject; all Valley climbs were contained in them. There weren't "secret handshake" climbs intentionally unlisted like we have now. The weirder and lamer routes still made it into the guide. The juiciest routes did too. Amazing subjective detail of the author came through in print and the outings based on his discursive method of guidebook writing were very very engaging and really in the spirit of our art. The change is not due to the Topo form of guidebooking; it is also the problem of sheer numbers of climbs, the cost, and of course the serious lack of deep vision of the writers of recent years. Eric Sloan has assured me a couple of times that he is trying to do a comprehensive guide to all Valley climbs and we do see developments from him. But it is daunting, requires money, time and total power actually on the part of the writer to be valid, get all that nitty-gritty, and provide some subjective reflection often on the climbs. Huge challenge, certainly.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:11am PT
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Steve,
yep, definitely many of those are Tom Frosts. I recognize at least one that is not normally know as Frost photo, but it's one that is now for sale in the Yose mtn shop by Tom.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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ah, and the Black Wall is in the amphitheatre.
hrm, need to figure out what it is now with my teal colored reid guide.
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