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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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Brian~
That is so Stellar and many climbers will benefit from your efforts! Way to get a hold of the FA's Ed Barry, style, Man! See, things are still Old School after all, just a new decade!!! LOL
Thor
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
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Oct 14, 2010 - 12:00am PT
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Thanks for all your hard work...and the hiking. Maybe you can post a detailed topo of the approach to the top of the Razorback from memory.
Rob in EP
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Oct 14, 2010 - 12:09am PT
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Thanks, Bryan. You and your work are deeply appreciated. Hope to hop on one of your excellent routes next year...
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Gabe
climber
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Oct 14, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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Great job Bryan! I'm glad your out there getting the work done before the enemy gets there first, taking out all the run-out/hard/fun sections. You have always practiced what you preach. Talking to the first accentionist and the climbing comunity, before taking it into your own hands.
I'll buy ya a beer next time we cross paths.
Gabe
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
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Hey, THANKS for all of your support! I really didn’t expect this many replies and was just following up on the rebolt to let folks know what happened. It’s nice to read all of your comments!
Ed did a proud job of putting up First Verse, in traditional bold style. I hope the route gets a few ascents next year by those of you who are willing to go for it on routes like this. Nice job, Ed!
I haven’t gotten to much in the way of rebolting old routes this year – just First Verse, and earlier in the season, Some Old Bolts at the Peanut Gallery (East Cottage area). Guess the latter route now needs a new name… Dan McDevitt has been working on some of his routes this summer, at the Peanut Gallery, East Cottage Dome, and Drug Dome, as well as many others in the Valley. Thanks for all of your maintenance work, Dan!
Roger Brown deserves way more credit than he receives. He is the one who is really taking care of all of those manky old bolts and has fixed up a TON of routes. Roger, how many bolts have you replaced now in Yosemite, total?
Thanks again to Roger for all of his time and effort; he has provided a huge service to the climbing community. Right on, Roger!!!
Yeah, Bob and Clint hooked me up with stainless 5-piece bolts this year so I have switched to stainless, which has been a great upgrade from the carbon-steel 4/5-piece bolts. Big thanks, Bob and Clint!
Got a few of my quarters replaced this year… But you know, I really wonder why I am replacing some of them when they are a real PITA to remove. It just seems strange, but it’s gotta be done, and sooner is better than later. A few of ‘em didn’t even last 24 hours this year. I think there were a few more that I already put away.
My hope is that by posting rebolting threads like this one that others will be psyched and get interested to join the effort to replace old, deteriorating, and unsafe anchors. There are a few tricks, but it’s not complicated.
Check out the ASCA website for more info:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 14, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
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bumping this for rebolting
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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May 14, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Hell ya! Heres the pile of mank from our 2010 bolt replacement season up here in Oregon.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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May 15, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
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Bryan,
Just re-reading this thread and was surprised to see my post:-) Those one bolt anchors must have gotten to me last season. I am sure I'll stay with the one-for-one ethic. John had asked me to add a second bolt to the anchors on The Deuceldike. Even though I didn't get past Eye in the Sky, I had already decided that I was going to stay with one-for-one. Just following gut feelings I guess. Maybe it's not John's call. I know I haven't got the right to make the call. I think I was pissed off at the fact there are one bolt anchors out there and I'm not doing anything about it. Good on you for getting the job done. As for numbers, I'm not really sure. I keep a log book every season and I have, in boxes, just about every bolt and hanger. Most are bagged and tagged. Probably 1200 or so since Clint started helping in 2007. About the time I started running out of easy stuff. Several really good climbers are going to help us again this season so we have set our goals pretty high. Some TM stuff is on the list so maybe we will see you this summer,
Roger
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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May 15, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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I looked for those routes, and never even found them,
so props +2!
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