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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Aug 21, 2010 - 02:27am PT
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Thank You Werner. My fingers were too numb from incredulousness to form a polite response.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Aug 21, 2010 - 02:34am PT
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Since the off-width is always above your head a mid-waist tie in will always get in the way; the continual thrusts up the bugger often are aimed (even if absentmindedly) at getting your hips/butt into the crack although this is, quite frequently, the wrong thing to do.
Instead of a waist tie-in I STRONGLY recommend a couple of wraps of 1-inch around your neck as the tie-in point thus alleviating the problem of knots getting jammed between hip and rock. This method is also is an immense commitment builder.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Aug 21, 2010 - 02:46am PT
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Two inch tubular webbing is WAY more comfortable. About 12 feet of the stuff ought to do it--at least it does for me.
Curt
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blackguardx
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2010 - 03:09am PT
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I didn't think the swami belt was all that bad. It was uncomfortable, but did the job. Maybe when my plasma donation checks come in, I can get a more offwidth specific harness.
It didn't seem like such bad of a question, but a few people seem to have a problem with it.
Either that or they are waiting for their DTs to wear off.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Aug 21, 2010 - 09:01am PT
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Two inch makes it work.They were not that bad to climb in at all,and I kinda liked that they eliminated hanging.I switched to a harness when I got to NH as there were occasional hanging belays.
A few springs ago Tradchick and I played hooky,and planned a final day of ice in Crawford Notch.The warmth in the air was too much for our weak souls,and we instead headed to the South Buttress of Whitehorse to take in the first rock of the season.In the process of switching stuff in the pack,I spaced my harness,thus arrived at the end of a thirty minute approach without.Couldn't recall a bowline on a coil,so sliced up what I had for runners,all 11/16, and made a two wrap swami outta them.We climbed Hotter than Hell,and Inferno without incident.I took my last runner and made figure eight leg loops,but really was glad to finish the two sixty meter rappels to the bottom on that stuff!
'Ot Henry still sports a one inch swami when we see him.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 21, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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Mimi, this is BooDawg! Guido wants to know if you've ever tried bollin'-on-a-dyke?
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 21, 2010 - 11:23am PT
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another solution is to cut the gear loops off your harness...surely you have a piece of junk harness laying around, for me it was the old BD.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 21, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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Can't tell what the belayer's wearing. Shoulda known Mussy would offer such a specialized piece of gear.
Hey BooDawg! Hope you're enjoying your stateside visit.
Ask Guido whether I would've been in the middle or at the end of my rope when I tried this. LOL!
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jstan
climber
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Aug 21, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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When your weight is not on your hands and feet a lot the harnesses excel. Otherwise the swami is better. Provided you are careful not to go unconscious or do other silly things. Be sure to read Rgold's post. About sums it up.
If you want to use 1" make sure you have something like twenty feet. And also try to get dynamic belays. The 1" was nice in that the knot seldom got in the way.
Two inch is MUCH more comfortable. Depending on waist size 12' may or may not be enough for the 2". Three or four wraps leaving a foot or more for the ends. In tight spots you can push the knot out of the way just like the tie in. And the junk sling can be moved to the other shoulder or even dragged behind tied onto the rope. At least you could do this before cams were invented. If those things can hang up - they will. Cams can kill you.
Having a little more length on the ends also helps in making the knot tight. Wrap the ends once around each hand and snap tighten the knot. Oh and build a clean looking knot. No twists inside the knot.
You want the swami tight enough so that when you are hanging from it the tie-in gets no higher than your sternum. Absolute max. The suspension point being above your center of mass helps keep your head up too, by the way. Keep the swami below the pectorals.
I once tried hanging some gear from my swami, much as people today do with the harnesses. Mac looked at me, deadpan, and said, "Going to find it interesting when you try to do a chimney that way."
Don't mind these guys. It's PMS. They are Pissed because they are not Mountaineering on a Saturday.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Aug 21, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
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you want the swami as tight as possible for big whippers.
this 4 inch strap will cinch up to 10,000 lbs.
you want a 3 day fast before final cinch up.
no fiber for ten days.
and no eggs.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Jul 20, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Do it like this guy.
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