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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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I have never climbed Speed of life, though I have absorbed people's enthusiasim for it for decades.
I have climbed Blues Riff though, and it is one of the best .11's anywhere! up there with; butterballs (!), Spectreman, Mr clean, Horn's Mother, enduro and harding slot on Astroman, supremacy, Squat, The Monkey roof, Morongo man, Nine lives, Quarter of a man, way better than Valhalla... etc...
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jul 23, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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Is Hobbit Book 5.11?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
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Jul 23, 2010 - 02:12am PT
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Only if you skip a LOT of holds.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 23, 2010 - 02:51am PT
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Nice list Clint - but not comprehensive as you are no doubt aware. A few more from Medlicott :
Priapism 11b
Knuckleball 11c
Power to the People 11c
and so on ......
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 23, 2010 - 03:19am PT
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Sorry Jaybro, I'm guilty....did Death Crack first try on a TR in '85 by liebacking and underclinging my way through it. Felt solid but there is no way I could have geared it that way. Tackling the f*#ker straight on and protecting it must be how it got its name. Good job on your on sight. Did Speed of Life and Blues Riff both on sight, both are really good. I remember sucking wind a bit on Speed....but maybe because Todd Worsfold and I narrowly missed an encounter with a big rock fall on the approach. Blues is awesome but kind of a one mover. Haven't climbed up there in over 20 years...F*#king miss it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 23, 2010 - 08:28am PT
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It's sort of an on going joke, For both Death Crack and Coyne. After Tom herbert told me he'd onsighted Coyne I asked him how... he ended up getting purple in the face, "Liebacking is climbing!"
But back to Blues, though the crux is short, then you get that cool overhanging jamcrack! it's the combo, that does it for me...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 23, 2010 - 10:26am PT
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Lembert Dome.
Gawd, I beat Captain to it again!!! HA!
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Jul 23, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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Jaybro, have you done Easy Wind and that thing to the right of it?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Jul 23, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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I onsighted death crack somewhere around 84 I think. Was way too scared to lieback the thing. Remember some ow at the lip I think. Clint, your list is awsome as usual.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 23, 2010 - 11:19am PT
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Best 11. in Tuolumne?
Blues Riff is hard to beat.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 23, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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Straight jamming on "Death Crack"
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 23, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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The three 11d routes on Central Cottage are right up there with anything else in the park. Continous and hard, except for having a bit of lichen on them because nobody ever does them, they are nearly perfect knob routes. And they don't hurt like Skeletor does.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 23, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
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Ya Werner!! Staring death in the face.....Death Crack that is
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Capt. Buzzkill
Trad climber
Northridge, CA
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Jul 23, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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Lots of short selections here for an area with big routes.
My vote goes for Sorcerer's Apprentice.
Re Death Crack: When I led it bitd it seemed mandatory to jam it to place gear. The offwidth/wide at the top almost made me puke. One of my partners, Levy, was able to fire it (liebacking) with a walking cast on his left leg below the knee. After some rough customization, he had made a climbing shoe to fit the cast. My lead was unimpressive compared to this.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jul 23, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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Clint, I don't see Chvchichaschtli on Daff. Not a contender for Best 11. But it is .11a.
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Capt. Buzzkill
Trad climber
Northridge, CA
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Jul 23, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
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Heart of Stone is awesome but I think its 5.12a
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 23, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
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Goldfinger ..... yowz!!!!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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I was waiting for someone to plug Sorcerer's Apprentice- I've heard some good things...
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 23, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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Sorcerer's Apprentice; it's very good and so is Heart of Stone, Blues Riffs, etc etc ... there's a ton stuff to do up there in TM.
What more do need?
Go get em .....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 24, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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Indeed, Central Cottage has two .11d (Dead Ranger & New World Order) and a .12a (Sex on the Flag). Got whipped in the face on NWO, but truly awesome! It doesn't look so hot from the ground, but fantastic knobs...
[These are 3* .11s not on Clint's list]
Hard to compare TM knob climbs with cracks. Mr. Kamps is pretty wiley too.
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