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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
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Safety is good. Too much safety is unsafe.
Like if you fret over everything and take every precaution, roping up for class 3 and so on. It all takes time and you wind up climbing at night or descending in the dark, or get caught by a storm. That's not safe.
Balance and perspective on the big picture is the safest way once you have the experience to see it.
Until then, don't get over your head
Peace
Karl
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john hansen
climber
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:03am PT
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but seriously..
There is a "safety" guy that we hire to do weekly meeting with our guys when we have big projects going. He works with a lot of the construction companies around here.
"Eddie" has a hard job convincing crews to wear harnesses and ropes on roofs, and telling us how to use ladders and stuff.
Just try to get the guys to leave the guard on a table saw, OSHA can get that violation at almost any job site they visit..
But old Eddie never gives up and just keeps pushing his message,,
"Be careful out there, it only takes one second for someone to get seriously hurt or killed"
Three biggest killers... electrocution,,,falling and ,struck by.
Kinda sounds like climbing....
Listen to your inner Eddie
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:11am PT
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Safety first!
Per post from Chinchen:
Always check your partners Setup! I recently climbed with a guy who climbs pretty badass alpine but forgets to tie into his rope on the rock..."ah..dude, you should come back down and tie in, otherwise this belay device I have the rope threaded through is useless"....
And leaders, check to see if your belayer is tied in. If in doubt, tie them in with a knot they are unlikly to untie.
I just hate it when those bastard belayers untie from my lead rope and go elsewhere. Especially, when I forgot to tie into the lead rope.
Bastards!
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john hansen
climber
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:11am PT
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Karl i agree with you that "to much safety is unsafe"
The only OSHA approved ropes and jumar like devices are so bulky and heavy they could have been used by the 'high scalers' on Boulder Dam. They are more of a hazard than a help.
9 mm ropes and a jumar or such would be so much better but it would take years and money to get them approved by OSHA.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Karl, I'll agree that too much safety is unsafe.
I try to move quickly, if that's what you're getting at.
No argument there, speed (keeping safety in mind) is key.
Peace-
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sethsquatch76
Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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Place a piece of gear ASAP after leaving the belay on a multi pitch climb, particularly on anything steep!!!!!!!!
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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How about a meterological(sp?) breakdown of the radar or NOAA sites so that we can better predict incoming fronts?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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Safety is an illusion.
LIFE is dangerous. Use yer head.
Well, less than I do.
Hey, I got a helmet.....XYZmas present to myself.
Oh, BTW, Yer gonna die, fer sure!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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Safety is important. Before leaving the car at the trailhead, make sure you cover any valuable items with a sheet of tinfoil, and arm the magical wards over the door locks.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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Put yer helmet back on!
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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I've got a strain called cheese here. Safety meeting begins now.
Just try to get the guys to leave the guard on a table saw The first thing I do on a table saw is remove the guard and spreader.
Wait I thought this was about safety, or safety meetings, or non-safety.
Whatever, it didn't take.
What kind of safety meeting are you having today?
Mine is going to involve some train wreck and a float on the river in an innertube.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
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This one time, on donner, I tied myself off on top of a climb. I rethreaded my line to rap, and my belayer told me to tie myself back in. Whoops. We all make mistakes, but that was the last time I smoked before tying in.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 21, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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Time to hold a meeting of the Gravity Verification Team!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 21, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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To be safe means to pay attention 24/7. Pay attention regarding the planning, the execution and, most importantly, the finish. Never let your guard down.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 21, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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I attend all Safety meetings. Its the only way. I feel one coming on now......Safety Meeting!!
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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Report to the Safety Meeting from the Gravity Verification Team:
Gravity is still in force.
Will resume testing at another rugged site Saturday.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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Going to Cannon this week, will report back on the validity of safety meetings and eastern regional gravity, relative to humidity, that is...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:41pm PT
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What donini said.
We've all got our own near misses in the closet.
Looked down one day as I was about to be last down the first of a STEEP 2 pitch rappel so see my rope wasn't through my rap biner. Would have been the end of me.
ALWAYS double check your tie in and belay/rap anchors or anything else whose failure would be the end of you.
......pitching every inch of a some what long easy ridge. Yup, a squirrely partner got both of us benighted in a thunderstorm and snowstorm at the top of the U-Notch after having to belay all the way to the NPal summit....and all the way back. In late October. We should have been back at camp long before then. A long cold bivvy. Fortunately the storm cleared in the night.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 21, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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Like Donini said, a loaded gun is always dangerous and the climbing gun has no safety.
In the mountains you have to learn to trust your gut feelings.
Walter Bonatti made seven attempts on the Croz Spur before getting it.
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