The Nose-Second Ascent 50th RR, Pratt ,Frost, Fitschen 1960

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 02:05pm PT

Laverne Bump!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 07:53pm PT

It wasn't all suffering...

Pratt in repose on El Cap Tower from The Stanford Alpine Club by John Rawlings and Glen Denny, 1999. Frost photo.

Royal Robbins

Trad climber

Modesto, California

Jul 6, 2010 - 10:46am PT

Thanks, fellow climbers, for your kindness. Hope to see you in October. Go Denny etal!

Best,
Royal Robbins

Royal Robbins

Trad climber

Modesto, California

Jul 6, 2010 - 12:07pm PT

Thanks, fellow climbers, for your kindness. Hope to see you in October. Go Denny etal!

Best,
Royal Robbins

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2010 - 09:54pm PT

Glad that you are stoked, Royal!

I recently asked Tom about being chosen for this route along with Pratt as three year men. He stated plainly that the experience elevated and changed his life. How did you choose Joe for this project?

oldguy

climber

Bronx, NY

Jul 7, 2010 - 12:43pm PT

I should probably let Royal answer this, but I think I know the answer. Royal and I were climbing partners from 1956 on, spending many days at Tahquitz as well as doing some climbs in the Valley. Harding finished the Nose while we were in the Army (and not climbing much), but even then Royal said we had to do the second ascent, and we made tentative plans for September 1959 when we took a month's leave from the Army and spent it in the Valley. Our planning, however, was poor as was the weather, so the Nose became a prime project for 1960. Royal recruited Tom, and I recruited Chuck who I met in Berkeley while I was stationed at Fort Mason over in San Francisco. Chuck and I did a number of climbs in the Valley when I was able to escape the Army, and then Royal, Chuck, and I spent the summer of 1960 climbing at Tahquitz and then the Valley. Royal and I also spent a month in the Tetons, living in the furnace next to Yvon and Ken Weeks. Chuck, in true Chuck fashion, chose to stay in the Valley and live with the heat.

I'm planning to show up at the anniversary in October, so I hope to see many of my old friends, lift a glass or two, and, perhaps, spin a few yarns. I have noticed a tendency to wreath some of us older climbers with laurel. Actually, we just thought we knew a few ways to have fun, although in retrospect there was a hint of desperation in our lives. No money, no women, and no respect other than from our fellow climbers. And we also thought the Valley was way overcrowded with tourists, even then. Still, it was a wonderful summer.

scuffy b

climber

Eastern Salinia

Jul 7, 2010 - 01:53pm PT

Three year men??

If I recall right, there was a passage in Roper's Red guidebook about the
three-year phenomenon. It was noticed that a number of climbers made
really fast progress, sometimes audacious or even reckless, and toatlly
quit after three years.
A subject of concern for the safety-minded.
Obviously Messrs Frost and Pratt didn't follow that pattern.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2010 - 08:28pm PT

Thanks for the background, Joe! I am looking forward to meeting you at this gathering and hearing what you recall about this grand adventure.

You guys were awesome on this one so quit deflecting praise. If the three of you start racing down the humble trail we'll have to send out a search party! LOL

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2010 - 09:03pm PT

Joe- Do you recall which leads you ended up with as a foursome? You guys presumably split into climbing and hauling teams and alternated each day, as Royal describes. Which pitches stand out in your memory?

oldguy

climber

Bronx, NY

Jul 14, 2010 - 10:40am PT

Steve - We did function as two teams of two, the only change being that after the second day Tom switched with Royal and became my partner for the rest of the climb. The downside was that each of us prussiked half of the climb and followed a quarter of the climb, so we only led a quarter of the route. But there was no way around it at the time. Memorable pitches? The pendulums were fun, even following. Stove leg was impressive because of the sudden steepness. I never was very good at remembering pitch details, and the upper part was mostly straight forward nailing. I do remember leading a pitch free, below Camp 6 I think. This was notable because we were carrying so many pitons and carabiners that we didn't try to do sections free that we could have with a lighter rack. We were also trailing ropes that we needed to install for the hauling team. See you later.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2010 - 08:07pm PT

Pretty hard to float along with all that impedimentia and ironmongery! LOL

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 02:50pm PT

Nose Bump!

Mimi

climber

Aug 9, 2010 - 11:27pm PT

In 1959 Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard and the Dolt climbed up to Sickle Ledge. They had been tinkering around with the RURP and were able to climb past several bolts with better equipment just a year after the FA. The Dolt took this classic shot of Tom and YC.