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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Jeff,
Are/were you a skinny guy who enjoyed a can of cheap beer while TRing at moonstone in an older harness? I know, that could be anyone, but I think I remember you.
Is Mouse crack on elephant rock the obvious gully / crack around to the right end of the good rock (not facing the Hwy?) I found old 10 penny nails in it for aid, along w a 1/4 inch bolt.
Elephant got climbed over and turned innto a sport lead area. But the old lady who claims she owns it keeps chasing climbers away. I think she is wrong. It is on Cal trans right of way property / timber company land.
Any info or shout outs to other pre 1990's climbers would be cool if you guys had stories to post.
C-ya,
Paul Humphrey
Edit: Cool Petch. You might see us.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Thanks for the post, I miss good ol' Humboldt...
Graduated from HSU in 2003. wasn't much of a climber back then, but did enjoy some great beachfront bouldering at moonstone and Trinidad.
I live in Lake Tahoe (South shore, Nevada side) and I frequent Lovers Leap, Phantom Spires, Eagle Lake Cliff among other great Tahoe crags...
I climb often on the east side as well!
If any of you Humboldt climbers are passing thru Tahoe just let me know, I'd be happy to show you the climbing mecca that is the Tahoe Sierra!!!
-Eric
shiva5277@hotmail.com
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Vgavinator
Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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Paul:
You said
"Are/were you a skinny guy who enjoyed a can of cheap beer while TRing at moonstone in an older harness?"
My God how I resemble that remark. Still.. except I am not in Humbolt anymore.
Mouse crack was on Elephant Rock right next to slug slab. It went up to the right of the roof.
Actually Elephant rock is owned by two different property owners. When I worked for LP we owned 1/2 and I think it was the Christies who owned the second half. They would always kick people off their side. Even me when I worked for LP! I think Green Diamond owns the LP half now.
Nails.
Sorry to be long winded but another story.
Earth Firsters put up a huge banner accross Elephant Rock just after they listed the Spotted Owl as threatened(what a joke). It read SAVE LITTLE RIVER SAVE THE SALMON SAVE THE SPOTTED OWL. They had nails all over the place holding the banner up in the middle of the rock. I am sure they thought no one could get to it. On my way to work at 5:00 in the AM I saw the sign and had it down by 10:00. My kids used to say I got paid to go climbing. I tried to get all the nails out. I still have the banner.
Jeff
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moguls
Trad climber
Portland
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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I used to climb with the Bob's Nolan and Crowell at Moonstone, Luffenholtz, Redwood National, etc. Bob-cubed
I'm Bob Westhead....I remember you'all Doug Lafarge, Brian Kay
Stopped climbing when I moved to Portland. Skiing and Mt biking have taken over.
I met up with Crowell and his buds from Mad River Brewing a few years back at Smith Rock. We drank cases of Stealhead and climbed till the sun went down.
I lost touch with Crowell???? Anyone gots any ideas?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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I bouldered there 1971-77. That was mostly up around Moonstone and North of Trinidad. I remember one neat rock out Old Stagecoach Rd north of College Cove. I may have put a rope on the Moonstone cliff once, too. I don't recall running into other climbers there, except for Mark Chapman of Yosemite fame. I think he attended Humboldt for a couple years towards the end of the 70s.
I mostly surfed when I was in Humboldt, and drove to Yosemite to climb. I've never been too into limestone climbing and I don't think anyone had climbed on that then, but I sure wish I knew about the caves when I was there.
Darwin
proud graduate of the HSU Chemistry Department! I wonder how Tom Clark and Roger Weiss are doing?
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Outside
Trad climber
Truckee
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Nov 18, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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Hey Bob and Paul,
BC is now living here in Truckee, recently suffering a collapsed vertbrate in his neck, unfortunately the damage is pretty severe even after surgury and is unable to work anymore....probably love to hear from you guys.....
I was in Humboldt 95-00 and climbed alot with BC and became part of the Mad River Brew Crew around 98' and was on that trip to Smith Rocks...is that when we stayed at the condo for the night? And came up in BC's live in Van?
I moved here from Humboldt after graduation and got BC to move here in 05' from the City (Bay Area)
Paul I remember camping with you and a few others at JT one New Years as you were our rope gun and set up alot of ropes for us and we smoked and drank for a week straight.....haha
Bill P
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rock*
Boulder climber
???
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Nov 18, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
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Back in Boulder - better economy, weather and lots more rock close by. But, I do miss Humboldt sometimes. I loved the friendly scene up there - It seemed like we'd have every climber in the county out climbing and drinking beer together sometimes. Climbing on the beach on a sunny day was always a treat, plus the limestone in Co. sucks compared to the stuff up there!
I hope you are feeling okay Paul and thanks for the thread!
Ben
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Nov 18, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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I remember you, Jeff Frome, I got my early schooling as a climber from you guys. It was great to go out and get sandbagged by Darrel, Wayne and yourself. You guys showed me no mercy, and I thank you for that. Made me tough and ballsy . . .
Anyone who claims to be a climber and lives in Humboldt has to be the real deal. The climbing is so sparse and marginal (especially back in the 80s) you have to be dedicated to stay honed. After a couple years up there, I rarely climbed something I didn't have wired.
Who was that guy that used to solo the urchin route on Karen rock?
I'm the guy who cratered off of Low Tide Crack in 1982. I was rapping of of a single lost arrow, which rotated out of the crack when my partner tried to give me a fireman's belay. I was eventually hoisted out of there by Coast Guard helicopter with a split pelvis, brolen ribs and a ruptured kidney.
What Fun!
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
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Nice to see people posting to this one! I replaced the 1/4' bolts on top of Low tide crack with petzl glue ins back in the mid '90's. Were the 1/4'ers placed after your fall, Reeotch?
Outside And Rock*, Good to know BC is alive, if not well. Have him email me, please?! I remember many JT trips like the one described. Wish I was there right now.
I am on a new treatment for the stage IV cancer I have now. It seems to be working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So soon, perhaps. JT orr elswhere.
How about a Humboldt climbrs, meet / reunion next spring somewhere, (Humboldt?)
C-Ya,
Paul Humphrey
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Shaun_the_Conqueror
Trad climber
Arcata, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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How about a Humboldt climbrs, meet / reunion next spring somewhere, (Humboldt?)
Throw a kegger at the gym.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Nov 18, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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Yeah DM, I didn't even make it to the top that time. I belayed 1/2 way up because I ran out of hexes. I had attempted to belay my partner up in his Chuck Taylors, he couldn't make it. So, instead of leaving any of my shiny new hexes, I slammed in a LA. That's when I learned about redundancy . . .
Hey man, good luck on your treatment.
I'm in if we could get some sort of reunion organized. My brother still lives in McKinnelyville.
Anybody know anything about Tim Wilhelmi???
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moguls
Trad climber
Portland
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Nov 20, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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YO Yo Bob Westhead here in Portland, OR......friend me on Facebook if you know me.....we should set up a network there......maybe we can find others?
Not really climbing anymore.....skiing is my new passion
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Power Factor
Trad climber
Laramie,WY
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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Todd Raugewitz taught me to climb on Karen Rock and I climbed mostly with him and Matthias Holiday from ’83-88. It was a great place to launch an obsession with climbing. RL do you remember me? We didn’t climb together much but we shared a campsite a few Christmas holidays in JT. You and Tim kept my ego in check.-Jeff Rickerl
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moguls
Trad climber
Portland
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Nov 23, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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Hey Bill, thanks for the info about Bob Crowell. I'm very sorry to hear that about him. He is such a tough dude. Tell him I said hi.
Pass along my phone number/email to him; 503-281-5840, westhead@hei.net.......don't spam me bros.....LOL
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Nov 23, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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bob... you can find BC via my facebook. bob and pati too.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2010 - 02:02am PT
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Back at the turn of the millenium I wrote an article about Bob Crowell, otherwise known as BC. Rock and Ice published it under the title "The Lifer". This is the original pre-magazine edited version.
(I couldn't find any scanned photos of BC yet. Anyone got some?)
Hi Bob!
Life Behind The Redwood Curtain
Paul D. Humphrey
I’ve met at least 80% of my friends climbing at Moonstone Beach, the local hang out crag. That’s where I met Bob Crowell. He had a cigarette in his left hand and a belay in his right. Not far away was a cold beer had been carefully cradled in the sand. He had just offered me a ride on his top rope, if I didn’t mind him belaying. BC ,as he introduced himself, was obviously a local. I was new to these parts, was flattered that he would be so friendly. We have stayed in touch and climbed on occasion together over the years. But even though our circles do not often overlap, I’ve considered him a friend from that first meeting.
BC, like many “local” climbers originally came to Humboldt for an education. He had started climbing as a young teenager at Castle Rocks in the Bay Area. He was climbing at Moonstone in 1989 the day after he arrived when he was offered a top rope from another period climber and activist, Tim Wilhelmy. That was one thing that impressed Bob the most. At other areas he had been to it was every climber for themselves. Here people went out of there way to help him fit in.
I myself take a certain sick pleasure in introducing newcomers to our local climbing, especially leading. I have seen competent climbers grovel, moan, shake and even cry trying their first Northcoast climb. I’ve been told on numerous occasions that so-and-so would “never climb again” while here.
Bob seemed to take to it, though. When we talked recently he stated firmly that Humboldt stone had helped his climbing at “every other area” he had visited for two reasons. First, “Always be leery of the rock.” The brittle and unpredictable nature of much of our stone requires nothing be taken for granite. The second lesson Bob learned here was to be attentive, not just to the climb but the surroundings as well.
Bob was climbing with the core of Humboldt climbers soon after his arrival. He boasted about his climbing and began attempting new routes. One day he found himself at Luffenholdtz Beach, AKA Loosenedholds, starring up at a crumbly fifty foot sandstone tower. A small crowd had gathered to watch Bob attempt the first ascent he later named Back Door Man. This little beach is a beautiful place, if you ignore the rock quality.
BC was apparently able to, and he set out in the tradest of style, ground up with a hand drill, bolting from hooks and stances. Ten feet up he placed two hooks in opposition and began to place a bolt. 40 minutes later one of the hooks popped, swinging him out and pitching him off. The ground was ten feet away, but the “bummer” was a projecting rock six feet down.
He bounced off this on his way to the deck, shattering his ankle. He escaped further mangling only by landing in the only sandy patch available. Assisted by his belayer, Mike Atkins, he made his way along the beach and up 100 steps to the car (Bob says he has counted them). The fall and the small crowd made for a story that for a while became a local legend. By the time I had heard it fourth or fifth hand, BC had broke both his ankles and crawled out on hands and knees. I haven’t gone back and counted the steps.
After that Bob bolted mostly with a top rope. He felt this allowed a stance to be found, and allowed the most solid holds and sequences to be used. He tried to estimate the number of routes he has contributed, but I couldn’t get a figure out of him. He didn’t just bolt, though. A crack, let alone a good crack, is near impossible to find around here. But BC found a few, and even ended up using gear on at least one lead that he had been told could only be led using bolts.
These times were special to him, since he loves to trad climb when traveling. Joshua Tree, at the far end of the state, is one of his favorite haunts. Each New Years for many seasons, BC and cohorts would haul a full keg of Humboldt County micro brew to the top of Intersection Rock in Hidden Valley Campground. It was the place to party in the new year.
Bob finished his Industrial Technology degree. He could conceivably live near any climbing area he wants, yet still comes back to Humboldt. In the past few years he has taken up an additional hobby, Kinetic Sculptures. An example of why some people love it here, kinetic sculptures are human powered works of art that race each other “For The Glory” each year in Humboldt County. The pageantry is extravagant and the sculptures must pedal over land, across the bay, and through sandy beaches. The race lasts three days and is truly both glorious and absurd. It cannot be explained without experiencing it.
BC doesn’t give our rock any slack. He calls much of it choss, and considers it mostly practice for the Sierras or J-Tree. He states that “anyone who drives a long ways to climb and play on this rock is not crazy, but I would say stupid”. He’s a local, though, you can tell by the stories he tells. He’s climbing in most of them, but the things he emphasizes have little to do with the rock. He speaks of the seal he saw catch a salmon in the surf at Lost Rocks, and the one whose carcass he watched whither over the course of many months and trips to Luffentholdz. He mentions whales spotted off the shore of Wedding Rock, and redwoods on approach hikes. He’s here for the spiritual thing this place gives you,
including the stone.
You don’t live in Humboldt because you like the rock quality. You live here for the whole natural package. You usually don’t live here to get rich, either. The economy is thin and easy careers are only a plane flight away in the cities. Bob noted to me how the lifespan of a typical local climber is five to six years, enough time to finish school, maybe try and stick around, and then leave. If you stay here it’s because you love to live here. BC works as a welder / fabricator at Mad River, a local microbrewery. He hasn’t owned a car in six years. He lives simply.
Bob Crowell is one climber in a line of activists and first ascentionists who have stumbled onto this mysterious coast. There were others before him who have faded back into the fog, and today a few dedicated souls continue the exploration of possibilities. This part of the country will never be a Mecca for Joe Blow Climber. But for a few misfits, dreamers and other open minded people it will continue to be both a haven and an escape. This is a place that demands to be met on its own terms and enjoyed for all of its assets. “Locals” may come and go, but many of them won’t be able to stay away forever.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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This thread was misspelled (sp?) Humbolt.
I asked the site administrator to change to the proper spelling HumbolDt. maybe this will make it easier to search and find.
Post on!
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Somewhere I have a box stuffed with photos including some on the Head but all I can find are these two fairly crappy photos.
Here's me aiding the crack on the cliff just North of Wedding Rock. Is this the Coastline crack? 1979 I think. It was freed soon after at least on TR. I remember taking some wild swings trying to free it.
Same year just north of Moonstone. Aiding up a bolt ladder ( I think it was 5.9 free)on a small pinnacle we called Local Pinnacle.
I have lots of great memories of Humboldt climbing and the climbers.
Hey Jeff if you read this send me an email. Wayne and I were terying to locate you a while back and couldn't. Maybe he's connected since then.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Somewhere I have a box stuffed with photos including some on the Head but all I can find are these two fairly crappy photos.
Great! I have been trying to gather any info. about climbers in humboldt in the past. But this is very hard to do. There is a file in the Humboldt room at he the library at HSU for local climbing source info. Not a lot in it though. Perhaps this is a place where an archive may be put together so the new generations of students / climbers can find out what the heck went down there.
My generation stared at the rotten overhang at Pat's Point. We wanted to free climb, not aid, so it looked loose and scary to us. Never gets done anymore. If more info. and a legend grew around it, it would likly see an aid revival. WHo knows.
More info please?
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