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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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Original Pitch 1 on the Vampire.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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While it is thin hands for many and only a bit overhanging, Five and Dime fits the bill as well.
Bruce
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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Jun 15, 2010 - 12:37am PT
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desert gold
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:36am PT
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Anything 5.11 in the hand crack size should be overhanging:
111. Cosmic Messenger 5.11a *
115. Short but Thick 5.11a *
154. A la Moana 5.11a
1082. Slab Happy Pinnacle - Left 5.11a *
1194. Childhood's End 5.11a **
2291. South By Southwest 5.11a ***
2561. Windfall 5.11a **
141. Outta Hand 5.11b
236. The Enema 5.11b ***
379. My-Toe-Sis 5.11b *
511. Floating Lama 5.11c A1 *
772. Ribbon Candy 5.11c **
The 2 pitches above Camp 6 on the Nose have some good stuff,
also the main pitch on the Salathe' headwall.
Blues Riff in the Meadows, too. (Crux move is thin, but long steep hands after).
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:52am PT
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Paisano Jamcrack.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:43am PT
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Iv'e seen Enema Crack listed here twice- i did the first ascent and I wouldn't call it a hand crack. Everyone is scrambling to come up with some, said it once, I'll say it again, go to Utah.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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What choo thinking, Jim, fists? Although the technical fingery finish was probably the crucks for me due to pump and fumbling poor gear selection onsite, I remember reaching deep for meaty hand gams thug section before the sit. Quite lovely and steep but too brief...
One woman's fist, etc and so on...jmop
More stuff on Black Walls probably qualifies...first pitch of One Hand, Firecracker (kinda), Black September (kinda) and nasty 11a (white guide) Lightning Bolt roof, but that was fisty for me fer sure. There's also a foul looking overhanging suzuki route up there that looks hands, but I never tried it.
Further off the beaten path about "Natural High (blood in my chalkbag)" for the meatier hands but prolly fist...or even more obscure, "Baboon Safari", "just" across the stateline.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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Kind of obscure, but the 6th (?) pitch of Ribbon Candy in the Ribbon Falls Area might be one of the best in the Valley. 5.11c. Perfect hands traversing a roof/overhang, finishing with straight up overhanging hands. A gem.
Greg
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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Greg [G Murphy], could you tell more about overall route Ribbon Candy11c. Is other pitches can be well protected? your gear recommendation and decent options?
This is second time I've read that this is a hidden gem, thanks
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 15, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Uprising
Orangutan Arch
Childhoods End
Valley Syndrome
Big Bobs Big Wedge
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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drive south on geology tour rd.
park like you are headed to equinox, and walk in that direction,
there is a 80'high overhanging handcrack facing your westward walk, but i don't remember the name of it.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 15, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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Is Insomina (11c) gently overhung, or dead vertical? I know that last little bit feels overhung due to the traversing nature. Same with the hand crack on Davy Jones' Locker (12b). That thing is as good as they come, but watch out for the face climbing above!
Josh
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Orangutan Arch isn't overhanging. It's steep and hard, but not overhanging.
How about Freak Show at Lovers leap? Best single pitch at the Leap, Jay Smith said so and I agree. Definately overhanging.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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I thought the crux of the Enema was a flared hand (flared my hand, anyway).
Though there are tons of 'steep' hands in Ca, (and in the southeast, for that matter) I'm with Jim, utah takes this category\, hands down (pun intneded). There are more of these kinds of cracks in seemingly, every square mile of the deseret, than anywhere on the planet, you have to see it to believe it.
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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I agree with Orangutaun Arch, that was steep.
Karls Overhang I remembered started with fists (for me) and narrowed down to off fingers (super fun! + I have small hands ;-))
Do or Fly was super fun!!! Roof hands section was super short!!!
Time to make a trip to the desert!
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Jun 16, 2010 - 02:29am PT
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jeez - overhanging green camalot?!?!?! WTF is WRONG with you man???
That's overhanging ring locks for some of us...palms sweaty just at the thought.
sh**.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 16, 2010 - 03:58am PT
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Never been up there but seen pics here on ST and it looks incredible!!! Pitch 1(or maybe 2?) of Southern Belle 12c
Kaukulator 11c
Cramming 10d
Conan Crack 12b at Donner summit looks daunting
Crimson Cringe 12a has a boat load of hand jamming if only gently overhanging (gotta keep it real for Sal)
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 12a
The Late (RIP) Loose Lips 11b in Josh
and again Big Bobs Big Wedge 12a...... no cams but hey, thats the beauty of it
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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TIDELINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11a, Olmstead point area, Merry Braun, Dave Yerian.
Super. F*#king. Awesome.
Plus, at either side of the start of the route are two MASSIVE 2000 year old Junipers. Kinda like guardians. You'll see, it's freaky.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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I'd hestitate to call Cramming hand size for anything but the very top section.
That middle, .10d portion of Leanie Meanie is nice.
BTW, I always heard Orangutan Arch was kind of dirty. No?
Also, what happened to Loose Lips?
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jun 16, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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I think it got beat up in a fight with tideline.
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