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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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May 24, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
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Hey Ron, when you sent that ol'timey shot of me on General Dynamics from like '77 or somethin' did I show you the restored photoshop version that I did?
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Cool Mike! That was actually the 2nd ascent. For some reason i thought i was in on the FA (is that bad or what), then i looked at my own 1980 mission gorge guide and ...oops. Aging sucks
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apogee
climber
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May 24, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
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Ron, I know it was rhetorical. Just havin' a bit of fun- a buddy of mine & I were discussing the humor of the '+' grade the other day and how open-ended it is, no matter what it's attached to.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 24, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
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Fredrick, I do recall two 5.9 cracks right next to each other and did them both, but that's pushing the bounds of my memory banks. I was pretty new then... had only done a few topropes outside. My "mentor" took me to toprope a 5.10c faceclimb on my first outing (Magnolia? or somewhere near there), which seemed like pulling down on razor blades. And we rapped off a rounded rock that left me hanging in space supported by my brand new ATC. Kinda freaky, but good times.
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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I know you know, and I KNOW you know i know. Its all good.
Nutjob, the left crack is the nutcracker, the right one is galwas crack. Both are rated 5.9 and protect well with nuts.
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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May 24, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
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Scan of an Epi pic, Rock & Ice mid-80's. (I hope the copyright has expired!)
Nutcracker
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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BHay gets a full page hero shot in R&I, bvb gets his pic on the cover of climbing magazine traversing a concrete wall in his underwear, so being the rootin tootinist chalk slingin local crag hero ever, as well as friend to retards and small animals, I should at least be on a poster, right?
No, i should have a teevee show, but all i got was a pic taken from under me where you cant see my face or bulging muscles, and all you can see is my bvd's directly up my shorts and a TR thats looks tight as a banjo string. Worst of all, its in bvb's article. This sh#t sucks
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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May 25, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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Better to look good, than to be good...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 25, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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gaddamn, you sure chose a silly topic to b*tch about.
Ratings dont mean sh*t. I never understood how people get so worked up over it - THIS ROUTE IS SANDBAG, or THIS ONE IS SOFT!! Cmon son.
If climbing has told me anything, its to judge a route by the climbing on it, not the grade.
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apogee
climber
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May 25, 2010 - 02:40am PT
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GDavis, has anyone ever told you that you look like Peter Ustinov? I saw an old movie with him in it last night and it reminded me of your avatar pic.
Sorry for the random post- no offense intended.
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blr
climber
socal
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May 25, 2010 - 02:46am PT
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Wow GDavis, you're quite the negative nancy. I guess being an expert shoe salesman and climbing forum guru can take its toll on a person's sense of humor.
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Fredrick
Social climber
Ocean City, NJ
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May 25, 2010 - 03:22am PT
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Now, the confusion remains...that photo by Beehay titled: "Nutcracker" by Eppi, depicts the right of those two cracks, no? If so, this supports what I was originally told back in '81. Anyone?
Edit: After zoomin' in on the photo it looks to be the hand crack on the left.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 25, 2010 - 03:38am PT
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Watusi: If we support the 5.12 rating for trapeze it means we were 5.12 climbers back in the 70's
ron, we did tons of 512's in the 70's. put down that crack pipe! stuff in josh, the valley, and elsewhere. throw 11+'s in there and the list gets really long.
when i did the third ascent of the trapeze (frank noble, fa tr, ken cook, 2nd ascent (lead) them me third ascent, on lead) i thought our consesnsus grade was 11c. and that was back in the fall of '76.
the gorge is a hard palce to climb at and ratings there have always been a bit sandbaggy. did the ramp last month and swear to god it felt like 5.10!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 25, 2010 - 03:42am PT
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eppi's got that same shot of me only i ain't got no poofter rope and i was blazing on the deadly mda. good times!
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2010 - 04:14am PT
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Dont call me "son" little man. Let me get this straight -
So I complained about a pertinent local issue (which is out of your realm, both comprehension and geographic)
and then you complained about my complaining, and you want to talk down to ME? You are obviously stupider than you look.
Why dont you go play with your barbies, creampuff I wasnt talking to you.
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2010 - 04:35am PT
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Oh yeah, TONS of 5.12s...sure, I remember that, me too. Probably about a million or so in 1979 alone (i woulda done more but i had a cold).
If Kenny rated Trapeze 5.11c why did his best buddy Werner rate it 5.10D in his guide? Its really not all that hard, but ive only TRd it. Leading it could add a letter grade or 2 for sure. I copied werners rating (5.10D) in my 1980 guide to the gorge, but ppl were already calling it 11A at that time. Its a short and brutal gruntster that will paddle you hard if you botch the sequence. Im sure its possible to make a 5.13 out of it if you thrash hard enough.
Only jezus knows and he aint talkin
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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May 26, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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BVB you ignorant slut...
Epi never shot you, you pasty white beanpole. Buff, tan, construction workers were his stock in trade. (And secret fantasy!) The single piece of pro was for props. I will repeat for the feeble minded, "it is better to look good, than to be good".
As the caption says, it is indeed Nutcracker. Left crack, right facing. Right crack, left facing(Gallwas).
BH
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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May 26, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Russ S.
climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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Mission Gorge, wow what a blast from the past. I'd done some mountaineering stuff but started rock climbing in the Gorge in '77. We had our own crew and though aware of the Scumbag group, had little interaction except M.P. squatted at the group house for awhile. Maybe more like fox in the hen house.... I only had a bouldering session on the pink boulder with him, thought I'd get totally schooled, but managed to hold my own on all but a couple of problems.
We had so many of the climbs wired - I thought I'd never forget those moves - now I can hardly remember the climbs. Pulled the old guides off the shelf - "Mission Gorge, A Climber's Guide" Landry, '73, $2.50, Scumbag Digest vol 1 issue 1, '76 and Free Climbs at Mission Gorge, Amick '80. Even thumbing through the guides not a lot is coming back. I vividly remember doing Skyline Arete in a torrent down pour, no problem - done it way too many times to sketch.
Later we "discovered" the Santee boulders. Had our own names for the problems, which was pretty funny when we hooked up with one of the "locals". He didn't like our names and we didn't like his - last time I went back it took me forever to find the place amongst the houses and school...
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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May 26, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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Russ S. - I'm here in Seattle, too. Who are you?
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