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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Please understand that Mondays are usually bad days because it is an "all meeting day" at work (if I were failing to split atoms it would be preferable to management tasks) but also it is usually the day after coming back from the Valley.
But not to let Lois off the hook, and it is important that Werner wasn't annoyed... climbing culture is a part of this site, and hijacking the thread "Separate Reality" would be forgivable in another context, but in the climbing culture context Gripper was actually asking a very specific question: "where the hell is the climb?"; NOT let's discuss the Hopi way of enlightenment, an interesting topic in and of its own right... and maybe even preferable to the nuts-and-bolts of how to locate a climb... but perhaps I was just frustrated by the chaff-to-wheat ratio in some of the threads.
So sorry... far be it from me to dicate who should post and who shouldn't... but to some extent, the context of the forum should be respected.
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Mei
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Post Valley Depression.
In Lois' words, we all have them :-)
(I'm guilty of hijacking the thread too. Sorry.)
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WBraun
climber
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Why would someone belay under the roof? The belay is on the ledge. To make it easier?
This photo I don't understand .....
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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'cause it looked good on the T-shirt?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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"Why would someone belay under the roof?"
'Cause that's the way they did it in the Yosemite Climber photo?
Pretty silly, gotta admit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jerry, didn't wear a helmet.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Werner: "Even though each LSD trip ended in depression..."
Must have been a bad batch or a different personal neurochemistry as I've never had that experience...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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LEB - let me first say that I do not read all of the posts in SuperTopo, especially those involving Juan/Jeff/Batten/Rockstar/etc/etc... just not enough time. I don't often read all of your posts. I don't assume that people read all of mine. However, I have tried to keep my posts focused on climbing, though the evolution thread got me going, and I can always be lured into discussing issues in science.
My frustration was that to a climber the thread topic is relatively obvious, especially the climbers looking at this site. I recognized immediately that you thought the thread was about something else, and something that people find interesting, people posting on this thread find interesting. Whether or not you feel that you "fit in here" is really up to you, as far as I can see, you are welcome to stay and post. You've been treated pretty kindly, all in all, for this crew. I think it is your own choice.
"Separate Reality" is a difficult climb, a test piece to some. And while other climbs that exist now are harder, it stands as a test to climbers. The story of how it was climbed reveals a lot about climbing and climbers, and about particular climbers and their vision. It is something that I think you missed when there was a discussion about what climbers get out of climbing, something that I believe is a unique and very different experience than hiking, though that has it's moments too.
As Werner said, every climb has a secret to unlock, its not just a physical secret, but that is a part of it, mostly it is a mental secret, how do you get your body to make a sequence of moves in a situation most people would consider dangerous as well as physically challenging. No matter what the difficulty, every climb presents that sort of a problem to every climber... some of the secrets are easy to unlock, others take a long time. In the article "Lucille" Jaybro described a 10 year project on a very difficult climb, 10 years to "unlock the secrets". Every climber faces their limit, and must come to grips with it and recognize it. "Try? There is no try. There is only do or not do"
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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LEB - and so you get an idea of why this climb was named.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 01:50am PT
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scavenging off the web
Walt Heenan, posted on rockclimbing.com
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 01:57am PT
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Photo by Michael Renner on the Sportgraphix.net site, but I don't know who the climber is...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:06am PT
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Heinz Zak solos
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:09am PT
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Frank Gassmann, go to the http://www.zbs-ilmenau.de/~frank/henkelreisser/kletterbilder/bilder_yosemite.html site he has more...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:12am PT
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The Ray Jardine cover of Mountain 56 which fired our imaginations (on right) and Wolfgang Gullich, the first solo (?) which blew our minds.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:21am PT
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Some dude Gene, picture off the www.monsteroffwidth.com site... an interesting annotated table of my favorite climbing (offwidth) exists there for those exhibiting similar mental instablilities.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 11, 2005 - 07:56am PT
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Ed - Very nice, post deleted and we'll stick to physical realities I guess...
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KarlP
Social climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
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Nov 11, 2005 - 08:36am PT
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Who's the soloist with the bandana?
I'm neither old enough nor hard enough to recognise people as easily as some...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 10:04am PT
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Karl, I believe the guy soloing is Heinz Zak,
Eine Bayern Kletternmeister. He was the 2nd guy to solo it.
The first was another Ubermensch from the Fatherland who is no longer with us, R.I.P.
bergheil
Pat
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 10:50am PT
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I couldn't find a picture of Kauk doing this, really unfortunate since it was his vision.. and I love that Zak picture of him doing it in blue jeans, with three pieces protecting the outer section of the crack.
Sorry if this provides too much beta... but the stylized pictures don't help with visualizing how to get in, how to belay, etc, etc... and in some ways, the over documentation reduces the visual drama of the climb. I think this is a good thing, since I'm sure when you are on it, your imagination will be running wild!
Gripper - when you go to do it, aspire to do it in the style of Jardine and Kauk, but in any case, report your adventure back here.
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