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Chief
climber
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May 12, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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Bill Sherman aka. "Wild Bill" from Montana?
Perry
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Scraptee
Trad climber
Tacoma
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May 12, 2010 - 10:57am PT
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Check out the 20 Pull-Up Challenge - http://twentypullups.com/. There is also a 100 Push-Up Challenge site. It would be fun to say you can do 20 pullups, but how well that one excercise translates to improved climbing is probably pretty limited...
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 25, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Chief,
Yes, he is "Wild Bill" from Montana. You know my husband?
:)AFS
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 25, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
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Use rings and avoid full extension of the arms; arms on a bar and complete straightening cause stress on joints and ligaments.
Better to take an easy climb at the climbing gym; then add weight a little bit a time, and keep repeating the route, gradually adding more weight. It's like, doing 5.10 moves with a certain amount of extra weight = 5.11. Not exactly, but to some extent it is a valid principle. Bachar once said on a video, words to the effect that, "Yah, did all those pull ups, but not sure how much good it really did."
I've always wondered how good chimps and gorillas would be at climbing if you could train them to do the moves.
Maybe in the future, they will genetically engineer people to have better climbing skills.
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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May 25, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
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People who undergo Max VO2 test rarely max out (when they endure the test until their bodies switch from aerobic to anaerobic metabolism) that is their tolerance for the pain or muscles fail before they peak in 02 uptake.
To max you must continue the exercise beyond the point where 02 uptake plateaus even if the exercise intensity increases. It is rare for someone to reach the plateau. Once someone does peak they will either continue momentarily and resign or pass out.
If Alex Lowe's max VO2 was in the 60 ml range he was not near the top of the heap as far as recorded max VO2's which have been as high as 88ml (superhuman). I think Lance Armstrong has maxed out at 85 ml/Kg/min.
(Not trying to take anything from Alex Lowe just clarifying record max VO2's)
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Chief
climber
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May 26, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
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anastasia,
When I first hung out with Alex and Jenni in the Valley in 81 (ish) they were hanging out with a mild mannered, bespectacled guy from Montana and his name was Bill. He was anything but wild and maybe that's why the name stuck. I just remember him as a real nice guy. It's been almost thirty years and I never saw him again.
Perry
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 26, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
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Chief,
Well that just shot that out of the ball park... My Bill was only a tot when you met your gentleman.
Plus for good or ill, my Bill is not what I can call mild mannered. He can be very professional at work but in his private life "mild" is not a word that describes him.
:)AFS
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Dec 14, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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here's a mildly entertaining video of Steve House competing in the GU 2009 Pull-Up Championship (more entertaining: the comments on YouTube):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVgulqwjME8&feature=related
House has his thumb under the bar, which I was taught not to do. Seems kinda weird
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 14, 2010 - 08:52am PT
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Spend your time doing tons of pullups and you'll be a really strong 5.10 climber---if you can climb 5.10. If you want to climb 5.15, an entirely different training routine would be called for.
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bookworm
Social climber
Falls Church, VA
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Dec 14, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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one of the best stories i read about alex lowe:
he and his partners were stuck in their tents during a white-out; the ever-moving alex pulled on his boots to get some air...an hour later, his friends got worried and went looking for him
alex had dug a pit about 5 feet deep, had his skis lying across the top, and was in the pit doing pull-ups
i always thought his 400/day were just to pass the time and not a work out routine
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 14, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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If Alex Lowe's max VO2 was in the 60 ml range he was not near the top of the heap as far as recorded max VO2's which have been as high as 88ml (superhuman). I think Lance Armstrong has maxed out at 85 ml/Kg/min.
(Not trying to take anything from Alex Lowe just clarifying record max VO2's)
I'd be surprised if Alex's V02 wasn't higher, given the way he used to just blow everyone away with his capabilities at altitude. Maybe that ability just translated to something other than V02 somehow.
Lance's V02 was never that high, a subject that cause lots of the doping discussions regarding his abilities. Greg LeMond's VO2 max was measured at 92.5.
Some of the highest recorded:
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harihari
Trad climber
Squampton
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Dec 14, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
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You are as strong as your weakest link. There's a good book by Heather Sagar (sp?) which has a set of tests in it to help you figure out your weaknesses & strengths. You then train your weaknesses.
Most climbers, who are overwhelmingly not coached, tend to overtrain their strengths: Head weak? Avoid slabs. Core *and* head weak? Avoid off-widths. Fingers and endurance weak? Avoid sport climbs. The wrong-- and easy-- way to go.
In other disciplines, coaches observe and test, and adjust training so that the weakest part of performance improves. An objective set of eyes other than yourself can give you very useful feedback.
IMHO pullups are nice but far from essential-- hand and crimp strength, endurance, and bomber footwork are FAR more important. After all, watch Chris Sharma or whoever climbing 5.15: yeah, there will be the occasional epic pull-up move, but there will be much more hard crimping, etc.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 14, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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Personally, I think that working out is cheating.
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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Dec 14, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
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You missed my point.
Most people, when being tested can't reach their max VO2 threshold when being tested due to the onset of fatigue (oxygen debt & lactic acid build-up).
Any max V02 above mid 60's, is in terms of physical work, is high and way above what the average "Joe" is capable of.
Lance Armstrong and other world class athletes were in the mid 80's; which in terms of human physiology is "superhuman". The XCC skiers you listed are off the charts when compared to "Joe". Mentioning Lance Armstrong in my original comment was to illustrate a V02 max with a household name.
Lance was listed in the same chart you picked your #'s from (http://www.topendsports.com/testing/records/vo2max.htm); you just didn't post it.
Furthermore, VO2 max is only one peramater of an athlete's ability to perform at record setting levels. Armstrong's "low" V02 is not proof of doping, more of an indicator of other astounding physiological traits. Doping would give him an edge but wouldn't make the man.
If you want a better understanding of exercise physiology, see
Textbook of Work Physiology by Astrand & Rodahl.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Dec 15, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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VO2 of 60? Alex? ....now that is some funny sh#t. Somebody needs to remeasure that one or retype it.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 15, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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Some friends were on K2 with Alex and everyone had to do an identical load carry up this slope. Alex left last, had a double load, and was the first to reach the dump then passed everyone else on the way down.
No one else has the Alex gene
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 16, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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Saw Ed Viesters on TV the other day, it's not just VO2 max but anareobic thresholds which play a major role in endurance
http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2004/11/1122_041122_ed_viesturs_2.html
Only world-class endurance athletes such as cyclist Lance Armstrong have a higher VO2 max than Viesturs, Schoene said. Viesturs also has an anaerobic threshold of about 90 percent, meaning he can climb for hours on end using 90 percent of his maximum exercise capacity without collapsing. Most people collapse at levels around 60 percent.But more than this physiology, Schoene said, Viesturs moves with incredible efficiency
"I do really well with less oxygen," he said. "I've gone to the top of Everest without oxygen and sat on top for an hour and had lunch. I was not crawling on my hands and knees." - Ed V.
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Dec 16, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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Alex Lowe was an amazing athlete, but I read in Mountain Magazine, in the 80s, where Tony Yaniro would do 1,000 pull ups a day as part of his training regimen. Yaniro caught a lot of flack about training like a fiend, when no one else trained, but it obviously paid off (ie. Grand Illusion, the Pirate).
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 16, 2010 - 03:05am PT
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Paging "Doktor Climb Hard" - Your Alpine Medical kit has been denied clearance at the Customs desk
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Rickster
Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
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Dec 17, 2010 - 07:58am PT
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When Alex visited here in the Gunks in the early 80's, he didn't appear to ever train. He climbed, graciously, hard, boldly and always with a smile. A fine person.
Just to put some of these numbers in perspective though, a current record for total pull-ups in a day is 3355. Accomplished in less than 16 hours this last May.
http://www.recordholders.org/en/list/chinups.html
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