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klk
Trad climber
cali
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yeah, second, i was especially happy to see that achey piece which i really liked when it came out.
i've been looking for that issue recently and wasn't able to find it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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I haven't forgotten your request...Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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First bump in a while...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 30, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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Wow, what an awesome thread. Thanks for the bump. Very cool articles & great inspiration to hear John's point of view both then & now. Thank you. I couldn't imagine eliminating heel hooks from my bouldering repertoire, especially in Squamish! Just a testament to how important style & quality of movement were during that era. Amazing.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Oct 10, 2015 - 11:48pm PT
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"These articles are painful to read! They seem incredibly dated, and my writing skills were minimal.."
Beg to disagree. Your passion and focus come through strongly in your writing.
Bows and thanks to you John for your singular and devoted climbing path in the day. You demonstrated early on what eventually comes to those who reflect honestly and deeply on the game: the most fulfilling climbing pays little heed to trends and tick marks on the climbing boards and instead looks to feed the soul. Thank you.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 11, 2015 - 12:03am PT
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Great thread. TFPU!
As a follow-up to no-heel-hooks: Was "open hand grip contra crimp grip" a style issue that was considered at the time?
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:44am PT
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From a j.gill post above:
Whether a problem was difficult or easy to solve didn't make much difference to me; if it was easy and was appealing, I would work on polishing my performance, like a gymnast doing his best with a simple routine, enjoying the kinaesthetics as much as the challenge.
This is one aspect of bouldering that never really caught on in the mainstream, except by necessity on really hard problems. I think there is a lot to be said for "form". Gymnasts and divers, for example, are judged not only on degree of difficulty, but on execution - perfection of movement.
I like developing bouldering circuits that you just get totally wired after a while. I used to really enjoy watching John "the Birdman" at Gunsmoke in Josh in the 80s and 90s, talk about perfection of movement! It really teaches you just how efficient climbing can be, and you can work towards developing that same perfection of movement in your onsight climbing as well.
P.S. Too bad this thread only has 30 replies in 5 years . . .
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:55am PT
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In 1972 Steve Wunsch and I were in the Black Hills and decided to have a go at the Thimble....with a top rope of course. After flailing around and noticing that when we fell the top rope kept us from being guillotined by the guardrail below, are already high regard for John's exploits shot up another notch.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Oct 11, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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I'm glad this thread was bumped and I got a chance to see it. The book "Master of Rock" was an important influence for me and bouldering has been a life long interest even though I've never been very good at it.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 11, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
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As a follow-up to no-heel-hooks: Was "open hand grip contra crimp grip" a style issue that was considered at the time?
There were very few style issues 50-60 years ago. I prefered to avoid heel-hooks but everyone else considered them admirable. Nothing about types of grip. Jim Holloway popularized the open-hand friction grip during the 1970s and 1980s.
Thanks for the kind words, Tom. I have great memories of watching you and Bob doing first ascents in the needles - cool and precise!
;>)
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 11, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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look at the duds on those dudes. pretty spiffy attire there, Mr. Gill.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2015 - 08:05am PT
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Space holding bump
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 19, 2015 - 11:40am PT
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F10???!!!!?!?!?!?
But what about all the VB problems?????!!!!!!
My 8a.nu scorecard is done for.
:)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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I give thanks for John Gill.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2016 - 10:23pm PT
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And his amazing historical legacy...
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 10, 2016 - 10:27pm PT
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Indeed, a thankee to Cpt Gill!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 11, 2016 - 12:16am PT
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Dear jgill, I'm having trouble picturing the Mental Block.
My friend Carl told me my shoes were laced way too tight.
Have you ever heard of this?
--Knut from Butte
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 10:07am PT
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Masterful Bumpage...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
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Amazing how popular the bouldering game has become considering it started with a handful of stalwarts...and an occultist or two.
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