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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Lucky Streaks is so last Monday...
BTW, i was on aquarius during that time, am not froench and sent no Falcons. Though I did send a trundles that I think Mimi witnessed.
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Mimi
climber
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Be careful AC, Lucky Streaks is one of the Valley sandbags.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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I'll follow ya up it.....Rough lead!
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Mimi
climber
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Jaybro, I thought we trundled on you from Never Never Land. A fine memory of you scurrying away along the base after our loud warning.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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I am SOOOOO gonna drop fiber on someone's ropes!
I don't even care whose ropes !
I don't care what they are climbin !
I am comin in hot on the ropes !
I am layin some cable down on some cord !
what a great legacy to uphold !
what a *tradition* !
Da Valley- Da home of "traditional" climbing...
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Mimi
climber
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Matt, please don't bring Spartacus into this!
Sounds like you're the man to head up the Dookie Art competition at the upcoming Wings O'Steel Days. The idea is simple; all along the Dihedral Wall apron, contestants vie for creativity, texture and volume. Using only original artistic materials, which is to say, fecay and Hormel chili. I'm sure we can get old ropes from the SAR or pluck some old fixed lines from the Free Blast.
The question is whether you can make art out of sh#t. This is the central theme anyway isn't it?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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So I want to get in on this WoS ascent. I'm good with hooks;I'm hooked on all kinda nasty shite. And speaking of shite, I have some ideas for a patented Stite-Shield. It'll go! Dudes, dudettes, this is the time!%^)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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We can all wear tinfoil covered helmets and have cupcakes and balloons!!!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Don't teabag me bro!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I can feel it. Ouch. It hurts. But I'm still grinnin'. How does the Park feel about controlled explosions?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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1) Steve didn't start this thread.
2) Why destroy the mystery?
3) One cannot discuss the base behavior (pardon pun) of the excretion artists without talking crap.
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Mimi
climber
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coz, that's rich coming from you. Did you ever get on Growing Up? Since when do you have to climb the route in question to have an opinion about the route in question? Do you have problems with Steve's credibility?
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Mimi
climber
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coz, attack dog?! Hardly. Please note that I very rarely feel the need to jump in for Steve on anything. He can take care of himself. The only reason I did this time was that you and I go way back and I was surprised by your comments.
Your rapbolting comments bolster my point. Knowing the history of a climb and expressing criticism about it doesn't mean that you have to repeat it. Your continuous ranting about Growing Up is analogous to the negative postings about this climb.
By acknowledging that the FA were noobs is also one of the key complaints about what they did and why it was put up in such poor style. Those guys were hardly the 'little guy' in this sordid saga.
If you're so tired of reading about this, stop bothering to read it.
Have a safe and fun 4th,
Mimi
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Mimi
climber
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huh? Coz, these guys aren't/weren't the underdogs. I think you've forgotten how they were behaving at the time. Let's leave it at that.
I was comparing the routes in principle from a style standpoint. We both agree that each route could've been done in better style.
And I appreciate you taking up for me. Likewise, I'm sure.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I feel a Wings of Steelfest brewing. I might have to come down to see this. I think we're going to need Sushi up there so we better get ahold of Nature, too.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Would somebody please just climb this thing fer crissakes? The suspense is killing me and the religious climbing jokes are getting old fast.
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jstan
climber
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From what reading I have done on WoS, I conclude there is really only one resolution. Each individual has to answer the question would they themselves choose to do a climb in the fashion WoS was climbed, or not? And that is it. There will be no official verdict or even consensus.
We have not measured the depth of the impressions made in the rock to do the climb. We do not have an agreed upon specification as to how much removal is acceptable nor how many impressions are acceptable.
We have chosen to make our climbing something done on a slippery slope whereon no questions are answerable. We called it freedom.
Frank Sackerer had the answer. When asked what freedom is he said, "Freedom is wanting to do that which you must do."
Climbing in the US has been stuck on this for a very long time. We still don't think we have to do anything. It is all free.
Not impressive.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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In retrospect I wish I hadn't bumped the thread.
Point taken, John - but Steve is a fine candidate for taking these measurements and assessments IMO, and our curiosity is piqued - that has been adequately shown, and we, after all, are a curious bunch about the sport we love.
We do not have an agreed upon specification as to how much removal is acceptable nor how many impressions are acceptable.
I honestly don't think we ever will about this...or bolts...or top-down, etc.
I welcome the exploration and results in this case, however.
See you this fall,
Erik
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I find the notion that Stevie Grossman may be going up on Wings at some point soon, a really interesting and actually creative project. Aside from the craziness of the route’s problems, there is this matter of the highly interesting archeology of the first ascent---- what actually happened up there originally and what has the FA party left for others as a route--- I mean, is it actually a route and so forth.
And with most of the fumes having dissipated from the sulphurous originating event, now is probably a great time to go on this adventure, or at least have a serious look-see. And SG is perfect for the outing I think, as MysterE says. It would make a very engaging article at least and perhaps a bunch of revealing photographs (one way or the other). It is kind of like the early parties after Maestri’s clown “ascents” of Cerro Torre--- their subsequent accounts actually transcend Maestri’s!
Oh, and good on you Mimi! to say the least.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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As for some earlier exchanges:
I think Mimi's point was that smack talk is smack talk, top down or ground up, it's still smack talk.
Why is Steve uniquely qualified to do this investigation? Because he loves history?
Because he's a more badass hook climber than other El-Cap climbers?
Because he has a woodie for this route?
What if he had to make a few "enhancements" just to get up the thing?
Wouldn't that just be deliciously evil?
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