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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 14, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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I also have to go with 29 Palms in JT as well, with the Bircheff Williams a close second...Although in Josh I've also done Warrior Eagle, Scary Monsters, and Condor and they are all great, albeit short...
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Shrug
Trad climber
The hell that is the midwest...
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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So Ill
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
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Actually there aren't a lot of climbs at DT that you don't stem on and there are about a 100 quality mutipitch 10s and 11s. There is a cool climb I have ssen pictures of at Tensleep Canyon where you stem with your back to the wall at the top of the pitch through an overhanging chute. Don't recall the name though.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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Levy's list there raises the bar...
Nice!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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dihardron looks amazing.
never saw book of brilliant things
b-w was cool, but honestly i can barely remember it now
the crux on 29 palms is shorter and much easier than Streetcar
same w. scary monsters
same w. that short 5.12 at suicide
1st p. of fungus razor was probably better than any of those
green arch was more like a chimney for me
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
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Pure Palm @ Smith Rock Lower Gorge.
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
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backyard, stemming the tide.
across and down the street,
fuel injected hardbody.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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I'm with Watusui re Warrior Eagle. I did it with Sutton as a prep for Mohawk - which we never got around to after Steve's injury...
Yeah, I'll chimney the first bit of Green Arch, but then up higher it's just fabulous stemming for me, especially up where the left side gets undercut and has little chinks in the edge for the foot. Wow!
There was a story going around for a while about Ron Carson leading The Dark Side which Levy mentioned, and his girlfriend was watching and got so scared she started crying...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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I always think more about the fingers and the pro than the stemming on FI-hardbody...
Wasn't there an ad with Some Guy on Blood on the Tracks? maybe I hateplastic could make it into a poster...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 14, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Apr 14, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
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I've heard "Not My Cross To Bear" in New Mexico is high quality...
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Melvin Mills
Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
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Apr 14, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
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Not My Cross to Bear is in Penitente Canyon CO rather than NM but it is a fine pitch of stemming.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 14, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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I'm not so hot at stemming pitches, but I did the moratorium pitch.
I was also thinking about tombstone terror at the leap, it's stemmy.
One thing that blew me away in Thailand was how much stemming you do on the stalactites. I was struggling on overhanging 10's there until I figured out that you were supposed to stem between the stalactites to make the climb more vertical.
Besides flexibility, stemming requires patience which is also not my strong suit. Every step is a move, but sometimes you only go six inches a move. And it take two moves (each foot)sometimes to make that six inches.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Apr 14, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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Thanks for the clarification, Melvin. Can't get my brain out of first gear today...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 14, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
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I have to put in another vote for Bircheff/Williams!
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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Apr 14, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
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Beer Bong: tensleep
Chinnese Revolution: trout creek
crux pitch on cloud tower
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 14, 2010 - 07:01pm PT
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Not my favorite
Not so difficult but continuous stemming for about 50 ft. I'd say a solid 5.9
Definitely easier to stem than to lieback or jam
Chicken Pie at New Diversions
Hospital Corner (Lover's Leap) is harder and much more aesthetic but less stemming.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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Apr 14, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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The flared chimney on the left side of Moby Dick at the base of El Cap, or
The East Chimney route on Rixon's Pinnacle
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Chief
climber
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Apr 14, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
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Watusi,
Ditto for Warrior Eagle and The Condor.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 14, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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I like Creten Bull Dancer and Rockwork Orange at JT. Moratorium is definitely up there. Bull Dancer has the cool feet-above-hands move you love to do on the sharp end
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