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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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Peter-Are you refering to Pharaoh's Beard Regular Route (Green Roper guide, p.226, Tom Frost, Chouinard, Weeks? II,5.8)? By the end of May, it might be OK.
So far my "real list" includes Ed's suggestion of "Trial by Fire," "Pharaoh's Beard," and "Turkey Pie" at Knob Hill.
I read Ed's TR on Generator Crack where Jilli got stuck and the efforts (antics?) involved in getting her un-stuck. Hilarious, unless you're the stuckee.
Bottom line, I'm willing to have a go at harder stuff, but not right off the bat. I'll be training harder at the gym now! Watch out!
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
Modesto, CA
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Apr 10, 2010 - 07:55pm PT
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Ed's right, Trial By Fire 5.8 would be a good one. Have to lead it to TR though. Perfect hands to fists to wide to chimney. Mellow moves with an interesting move around a hanging block to gain the anchors. Very fun route.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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If you ever get serious about new routing in Alaska, Patagonia or the Karakorum (read granite), get your wide crack technique DOWN. Often the stopper because your gear is too small and you can't aid it.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:48pm PT
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It WILL get wide, in granite, if you go very far.
Train, mortal.
Thrash & thrutch. It's good for you.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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Left Side of Little John.
5.8 OW
Climb the 3 pitch right side which is an excellent climb by itself to TR the Left
Left side La Cosita, variation.
5.9. Climb the standard Left side (5.7) to set a TR
Left side of Gollum 5.10a
There are a couple of short OW problems at Swan Slab you can TR.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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Apron Jam 5.9 an interesting test piece
Peter Pan 5.9 great position, long runout chimney
it's hard to find 5.7 and 5.8 OW because it is often true that these are surmountable by using other techniques to get around them, albeit at a harder grade... once you get to 5.10 you've got to do it using OW technique (unless you're a freakishly strong young climber).
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
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ow on tr:
Doggie Do... the bottom is about 5.8. Even if you don't pull the crux, you get good practice. There is a 5.7 sqeeze that you can do off of the same anchor.
Cheat off of the tree for an easier go on generator.
Uncle Fanny, Church bowl chimney, and elevator shaft are also doable trs.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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Lots of good suggestions! I plan to try several of them. By the way, Uncle Fanny is already on my "to do" list.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:25am PT
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Remember that "Milk Dud" over on the east end of Glacier Point Apron is a fairly fun 5.10a OW. Actually enjoyed it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:26am PT
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is Milk Dud still there? I heard it might have departed in the rock fall
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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Kinda like slab climbing....
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 09:42am PT
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Now THAT is a list! Another question comes to mind....does anyone really LIKE climbing these pukers?
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Sean Jones
climber
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Apr 11, 2010 - 09:52am PT
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As far as getting a toprope on Chingando........if you go all the way to the left side of Reeds. Go back behind the whole Iota formation. Like inside the massive chimney that splits the Iota from the Reeds wall. You can do a tunnel through. Like tunnel through the bottom of the 5.4 upper pitch of Chingando. You can then clip an anchor, drop a tr, and have at it. A 60m. barely reaches but id doable. If you have a 70m. it'll be a bit easier. Have fun in Yos !
Sean Jones.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:06am PT
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Broke-yes.
Offwidth, as we all know, is the pinnacle of freeclimbing; the most technical, kinesthetic, elegant form of them all. YMMV.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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I heartily second Peter's mention of Pharoh's Beard. Led it recently again, and it's way less scary with big cams.
And you know, 5.8 should be grunty and hard, especially in OW. Nice walk up through the forest to get there. The chimney on the last pitch will pop some sweat too.
I also second the mention of Pratt's Crack (Pine Creek, Eastside). 5.9, enduro for sure at 200 feet, and more protectable than I remembered.
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Chief
climber
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:47am PT
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Back when I was young, lean and flexible my Valley OW apprenticeship included;
Generator
Chingando
Reed's Left
Entrance Exam
Twilight Zone
Blind Faith
Freestone
Powerpoint
Ditto for what Jim says.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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Jaybro-
Offwidth, as we all know, is the pinnacle of free climbing...
Funny..I always thought it was a "back to the womb" exercise! ;>)
Seriously, tho', I really do plan to give several of all these excellent suggestions a shot!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 11, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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ok, you guys are all over the map on the Yos offwidth...
here are the benchmarks, in the Valley:
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Nice list Ed.
Anybody have fun stories from the Crack of Doom or Crack of Despair??
I ran into Greg Murphy and Peter Coward after they did these. I won't bore you with details, but needless to say I haven't been over there.
Ed sez:
...once you get to 5.10 you've got to do it using OW technique (unless you're a freakishly strong young climber).
Reminds me of Kauk talking about Moffat on the ABC route: "He'd do 5.11 face to bypass the 5.8 chimney..."
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