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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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I remember that cover! Ya mean he got olde? Good on him!
And why does it seem all those olde Limeys move over here?
I know they can't grow limes there, or not yet, so...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You don't get on the cover of Mountain by being a punter!
The incomprehensible force that drove the Burgess brothers out into the Desert of Drink aka SLC leaves me in constant amazement! LOL
I bought a couple of Clog hooks from them in support of their beer kitty a while back.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Another shot of Pete along with Leo Dickinson, Cliff Phillips and Eric Jones beneath the Eigerwand prior to the first filmed ascent.
Note the cameras and pile of film cannisters that they had to haul up the route!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Thats the one where Phillips took the wild ride.
Whatever happened to Cliff anyway? (We did Royal Arches in December '76 with an unplanned bivy on top.) Last I heard somebody had seen him by some british lake all wrapped up in tin foil and waiting for the aliens to arrive.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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WELL, !!!
IV that is soooo classic
WTF
Masho told me the same.
He told me that that the Minksy lost his teeth drunk in the bar and he dosnt go out much any mo.
DUDE.
Where are you?
Post up bitch.
Me & Fritz will no dout about it will some day come to find you.
There is no WALL that will hide you.
Thanks for the car
How many years?
We will find you.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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The story about Pete trying to retrieve the gazillion dollar crystal is one for the ages. Minks is a wonderful soul.
And recall his ascent of the North American Wall with Terry Goodykoontz around 1976. Another fantastic story.
Minx is a classic. Love to Pete!
JL
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Stewart Johnson
climber
yo mama
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pete usually wears a piece of womens clothing whilst climbing!
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leo Dickinson
Mountain climber
UK
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Apr 10, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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Minksy... did a lot of climbing with Pete in the 60's and 70's including the Eiger when I 'happened' to have the 16mm film camera running as Cliff Phillips slipped and fell 200ft. His comment as he landed was chilling...did you film me? Yes idiot it will go down a bomb with the viewers... Pete never slipped on the Eiger - only Cliff although I seem to remember another fall on the West Flank on the way down. If anyone wants to see the whole climb/film then I have just brought it out as a DVD. Its on my website www.AdventureArchive.com. Its taken me 40 years to get the film back from the TV company that made it and I have re-digitised it from the original nagative film and the quality is simply stunning... way way better than it ever was. Also the 6 photos used in it were originally only shown in B/White due to a Union Strike about colour. These have been replaced making the whole film look really good. The commentary was narrated by actor Patrick Allen (Danger Man on TV) and was so melodramatic that it almost gave Ken Wilson - publisher of MOUNTAIN - a heart attack.
Oddly it seems less naff than it did at the time. I'm sure people who see it will smile at this nostalig production. Best watched with a bottle of good Californian Wine.. Leo
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leo Dickinson
Mountain climber
UK
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
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Minksy on the Skull...yes what a great story that was although Mollineux tells it best. The team consisted of Alan Rouse - Rousey - Minksy, Brian Mollineux and myself. The Skull was one of Martin Boysens hard climbs of the 60's so it was decided that Rousey would lead it. It was hard but Alan quickly ran up the crux as was his wont. He was simply the best climber I ever saw..now it was Minksy's turn and he found it harder - in fact so hard it looked like he wasn't going to do it. Now we had a problem. Alan was not going to give Pete a tight rope unless he asked for it...Pete was not going to ask for it! Brian said we will be here all night. Rousey decided that Minkys would have a better appreciation of the climb if he had 10 feet of slack rope in front of him. Pete was not amused. Brian told Pete to ask for a tight rope... Pete glared at him, "I've never asked for a tight rope in my life". Brian suggesated it was a good place to break that tradition...eventually Pete asked Alan to take in a bit... "I can't hear you" came the reply."do you want slack?" "No TIGHT" and so it went on. Brian & I just giggled on the stance. Eventually we all got up just as the sun was setting and rushed to the pub with Pete muttering that he hadn't actually needed tight... Of course not...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Apr 10, 2010 - 05:59pm PT
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WOA! Leo Dickinson steps in for a visit! I often wonder how many luminaries from days past are hanging in the wings waiting for something worthwhile to post to...
Nice to have you here Leo!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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The rest of Leo's article from Mountain 13.
"I never dropped it but I often felt like throwing it." -Job 1
Second best to a Yeti! Too damn funny!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 16, 2010 - 06:13pm PT
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Eiger Bump!
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Apr 16, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
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I was shocked, actually, to see Leo Dickinson's post.
I thought, what the Hell is he doing in a place like this?
Welcome, Leo.
Please feel free to tell more tales like the wee one above.
"Did you say TIGHT?"
"No, not at all, just belay a bit Faster than I Climb, that's all..."
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Apr 17, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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Big welcome to Leo.
What is Ken Wilson up to these days? Last time I saw him, late 70s, at our place in Santa Cruz where we had a great visit. Would love to get back in touch.
cheers
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 17, 2010 - 01:39am PT
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yeah, get these studly British climbers to post up more often! Leo Dickinson, awesome~!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 17, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
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Come back Pete and Leo! And where's Donini, he started this thing?!?
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Apr 17, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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Yeah Steve, I think I will bump this. Maybe some more good stories will develop. Some one from Tahoe should point Minks in this direction.
Say Hi to Mimi from me.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 20, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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Someone from Tahoe needs to grab Pete and escort him down to Bridwellfest!
Tom Carter or anyone else out there that knows Meastro Minks and can contact him about this little escapade, give it some thought!
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leo Dickinson
Mountain climber
UK
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May 18, 2010 - 05:33am PT
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How very humbling that so many climbers remember us. Seems like only yesterday but its a lifetime.The Eiger played a big part in my life especially my second Eiger film with my long time adventurer Eric Jones making his solo ascent at the age of 46! Yes its not too late for you guys.
Cliff Phillips is still around but sadly not his original self although I'm not quite sure I ever knew. Talented - dedicated - and brilliant on both technical rock and hard alpine climbs and together with Eric they soloed a huge amount in both N Wales and the Alps. When Mick Burke reviewed Cliff's application to join the ACG (Alpine Climbing Group - an offshute of our Alpine Club) he remarked, "Bloody hell he's done more routes that the rest of the group put together."
I got in with 6 noted 'Grand Courses' such as the Phillip-Flamm on the Civetta, Brandler-Hasse on the Cima Grande (then done with aid! show off Germans!!!)the Bonatti Pillar (now fallen down from the Dru) but Cliff's list was 176 routes - truly impressive back then in the 60's. He soloed the N Face of the Piz Badille in 3.5 hrs. I suggest that without prior inspection that is still impressive.
But now what is happening to our most beautiful mountain on earth - Cerro Torre - (thanks whoever it was for sending me the Messner Trento Interview.) As always having Reinhold pontificate on a subject does get attention from the press but the story is best told by Rolo & Ermanno.
How have we got to this state where one country lord's the first ascent as the greatest thing since sliced bread and the rest of the world doesn't buy it.
When Ken Wilson, Pete Gillman (from the London Times) & myself for the BBC interviewed Maestri back in 1971 we met with a wall of obfuscation that has only got worse. Will the truth ever be told about Toni Egger and the first ascent?
and the latest saga - "These bolts on Cerro Torre need removing not adding to..." I guess this story will run and run
Leo Dickinson Devon UK May 2010
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