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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 12, 2011 - 08:46am PT
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I like to think there are many good writers. There don't seem
to be a lot of great readers, though. That's another subject.
When going into a museum of art, we don't usually try to compare
and say, "Well, Da Vinci really had it over Rembrandt, and that
Van Gogh, well he couldn't keep up with El Greco...." I never
argue with any compliment anyone makes about anyone's writing,
until it becomes a comparison. Comparison, in my opinion, diminish
the value of individual works. We should see each writer
as making his or her unique contributjion, and we value
the gifts that hang there before our eyes. Competition and
comparisons are really a pretty low level of analysis. In the
relatively small, humble world of rock climbing, we have individuals
such as Royal Robbins, whose early writings were an inspiration to
us all. We have Pratt, who did about three pieces -- and we loved
them, as though he had done fifty. Fitchen's article "Up Against
the Walls" is as beautiful as writing gets. Tom Higgins...
here then is a spirit with wonderful poetic ability,
with gorgeous light and humor that drips from every line. We see
a resplendence in many who post on the topo. Doug's thoughts about
Pratt, for example, reach in and grab our heart. I've written hundreds
of stories that almost no one here has ever read, and far more poetry
of a real literary kind, and it has its own voice, and my best
writing has never been climbing writing. But it has a voice.
I've always hated when magazines edit their writers into the
voice of the magazine rather than let the person be who they are.
We love John Long's writing not because he is better than anyone but
because he is a strong voice who has his finger on the humor. He
loves the people in his world and has a memory to cherish the
experiences of his life. But
there are voices that stretch back through time, Murray, Menlove,
Bonatti, up through the simple clear reminisings of Buhl, and the
incredible, perfect works of art of Rebuffat, or even more recent,
Dave Rearick. This is only the smallest sample of the minds worthy
of our admiration, writings that stand alone, always, rather than
in some comparative context.... Many of the works in a museum of
art, for which I and we would suffer if they did not exist, are
smaller, more obscure pieces by artists less known....
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Aug 12, 2011 - 09:58am PT
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No doubt about it the man has talent and wit, any projects in the future John? As Ken Kesey said, "the problem with being a famous writer is you have to write something". Would love to read more from John Long, hope this thread inspires him.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:10am PT
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love is shy in her expressions;
reserved and desolate among foreign minds.
john's pen enboldened and encouraged her outrage,
and her song is now part of many hearts.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:50am PT
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Certainly one of my favorite writers.... his "Rats" always make me tear up! Never met the man but hope to some day.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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Several months ago John gave a show where he presented images( some climbing related, some not) by Dean and others, accompanied by a piece he had written for each one. As the image was projected on the screen, he read a paragraph or two aloud. Part fact, part embellishment and fiction, each one was a theater of the mind. I thought it was brilliant. I look forward to the book, John.
TY
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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Great men just stand there and do what they do .
Others grovel around mixing words , hoping for just a sliver of the spotlight.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
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I think it would be a cool tour to have John do small venues reciting stories. Is is a great writer, but even better story teller! If you've never been around when he's telling a story, you've missed some major entertainment. I'd pay to see it and help promote it fer free! Whada ya say John?
Peace
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 12, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
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john is an antagonist of action and of words, fish finder.
sometimes i stand 'neath a sliver of a moon and enjoy my audience of stars...
have you looked yet for fish between your legs?
might be time for a vinegar bath, eh?
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Aug 12, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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lovefest
sappy.....
all well deserved.
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Aug 12, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
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Hey weege,
was not referring to you as your post is a compliment to John,
and I always enjoy your witty poetic posts
but I can see in placement of posts how you might think I was.
It was a general statement.
Best,Gregg
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Aug 13, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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There have been many great climbers who have written about the experience of climbing and the culture of climbing. Who have attempted to capture the voice of their generation and etched it on paper for all time. Mallory, Murray, Patey, Childs. Some write strictly of their own adventures (Tilman, Shipton etc,) while others try to encompass an era. IMO none has done a better job of capturing an era more than John. Through embellishment, truth, a talent for words but more than that he writes with an authority and skill that few if any current writers have.
I love his stuff and can never get enough................OK. Enough of that sloppiness.
He does BS alot sometimes........;^) Write on John
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:25am PT
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Among John's many strengths, and there are many, he delves his
own personal experiences as they have taken place within
his perception of the
more immediate culture of southern California and Yosemite.
He is an important voice and a creative one.
If there is a weakness, and it is not a big one, it might exactly be
the issue of the era and the broader analysis of climbing
and climbing history, his sense of his own place or context
in the world....
But he's a fine writer, and that... I second wholeheartedly...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 10:12am PT
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John articles and books are some of the finest adventure writing there is. He can capture the moment, keeping you on the edge of your seat. Not to mention the endless routes he has CRUSHED in his lifetime. Viva Largo! Salute!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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The only author that eclipses John IMO in the 1st person narrative as a participant as well as chronicler is Hunter S. Thompson. John was on the bus to be sure
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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After experiencing John's early work I realized that I too was allowed to tell the story my way!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 13, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
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im curious how all of this praise affects john.
some of his literary expressions suggest melancholy tendencies.
feedback has strong influence on an artists' inspiration levels.
for me, harsh feedback feeds my beast,
where praise often leads to a dry complacency.
managing the emotional forces within is like trying to calmly catch
fleeing fleas.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 13, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
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John and Hunter... strange link, as they have lived in such
very different worlds and write in such very different ways.
But here we go again, with the comparisons... which never
seem to work. To compare is like making it a track
meet. One is the winner, one (or everyone else) the
loser. In the vast museum
of writing art, all can make their worthy offering.
How about just comparing the man to himself?
I mean, John at many times has been the best of all the
people he has ever been... or something...
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