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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
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for good Kev????
Watch what you wish for.
Come on over the Bombay Bitch awaits.
Jeff
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I't on next week, rain or shine.
Kev I need all of your wyde gear.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jeff,
I never approved of the rain in the first place. I'm hoping its f-in gone!
kev
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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sign me up for a day at parkline !!!!~ good stuff over there on the
westside.
Any ice on that cliff ?
Doug
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Flanders,
Ice? Do you know where Parkline is? Maybe I'm on crack but I don't think it EVER gets ice (at least ice to climb).
kev
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I think Flanders is yanking your chain Kev.
That or those ice guys have their noggin in the cold temps for long stretches. :)
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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who me? I am a very serious person !
Doug
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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Who needs ice.
It's all in shape Doug.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
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Replaced protection and anchor bolts on pitches 1 and 2 of The Hawaiian and all the bolts on Fly By. Also the anchor bolts on top of Crossover/Color Me Gone are now 3/8ths with chains, no more tat. Also the first bolt on pitch 2 of Color Me Gone is now 3/8ths. Thanks brother Mucciman!
Jeff
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ShibbyShane
Trad climber
El Portal, Ca
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Mar 24, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Are there any topos floating around of parkline? I need to get up there and check it out.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 12:02am PT
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Eagle's Eyrie: Bob Steed and I replaced all 9 belay/rappel anchors with 3/8" stainless, plus the 3 protection bolts on the first full pitch.
We also finished our route between Dangling Chads and Eagle's Eyrie. 9 pitches, mostly 5.7 - 5.8, with a short 5.11a thin crux on p2. 3 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts on p4.
Jeff, there are still protection bolts to be replaced on Eagle's Eyrie, at least 2 of these on right side version of p3 (but left side of block is better climbing) and 3 on p5.
The route is set to rap, except we ran out of rings at the lowest anchor (the one only 60' off the ground), so I left an old sling there. The hangers there are Petzl Coeur and bolts are ASCA Powerbolts, so replacing with (thicker) Fixe hangers won't work. If somebody would add quicklinks/rings there, it would finish the job, though.
We also added 2 quicklinks to your anchor atop p2 of Dangling Chads, so the rope should pull a lot easier there now.
P.S. Jeff, thanks for *your* hard work. We're just tryin' to join in on the fun!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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Clint, now I see the photos. Set to rap! Nice!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Mar 25, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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What are you guys doing with the old STAINLESS SMC hangers that you pull?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Bryan,
Bob took the 1/4" SMC stainless hangers, in case we ever have to drill from any tough stances.
Roger should have a huge stash of 1/4" SMC stainless, if you'd like some - he saves all the bolts/hangers he replaces.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Minerals, Greg Barnes has dibs on the ones I am not using. But, I will give you a few if you promise to replace them with real bolts right away. Hate to see another bolt pop out as I climb past.
JEFF
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Mar 25, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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LOL! Thanks guys!
1/4”, 5/16”, or 3/8”… They will all work. You just have to drill/file out the 1/4” ones and use a washer with the 3/8” ones. I’ll hit up Roger when I get a chance.
Jeff, go ahead and give them to Greg; he gave me a handful a couple of years ago.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 25, 2010 - 01:46am PT
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Nice Clint! Thanks alot for the hard work on EE, that is a great looking line. What about the bolts on the upper pitches, 4-6? I thought there were a few.
The rope does pull better now with the new links, we both were like,"Did you put those on? No, bet you it was Clint!" Thanks for beefin it up!
Way to get er done! What is the name for the route?
Thanks again for the rap stations on EE.
Mucci
Oh and Tork gets the hardman award, he actually broke my hand drill while trying to establish an anchor! Unbelievable! HAH!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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Josh,
> What about the bolts on the upper pitches, 4-6? I thought there were a few.
I could see 3 on p5 of EE from our route when it was still daylight. We topped out at around sundown, so we did most of the replacement while rapping down in the dark. I don't think there are pro bolts above the top of p5 because there are cracks. EE p8 is the beautiful 5.10a lieback RFC visible from the parking pullout. There might be pro bolts on p4, but it was dark and we wanted to get down. We fixed down from the top of the block and got to the car at 2am. Finished replacing below after sleeping in on Sunday.
No name for our new route yet, but maybe soon.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 25, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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Whooaah! 2 am! Man you guys must have been worked! Nice finish.
Thanks for the info on the eagle.
Mucci
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