BRIDWELL - Proofread PLEASE!

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Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Feb 16, 2010 - 11:17am PT

Kevin wrote: "It's kind of a minor route, and I haven't done it, but some think Abstract Corner at the Cookie was his hardest free route for years. I know Largo thinks it was. Apparently harder than Butterfingers, and ahead of its time."

It does seem a little strange to stack in these little free climbingproblems with his big ascents, but in fact most of what is done today, in terms of scope, would be considered "minor."

So, yes, Abstract Corner is just a short, one-pitch, one-off at the top of the Cookie, but for dificult moves, it's the hardest thing (5.12a/b??) I ever did of Jim's, and I think I did most all of them except Basket Case.
Us Uplanders (Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison and I) did the Corner and we all were impressed with it. It was a lot like a hard Mt. Roubidoux boulder problem, and back in those days we almost lived out at Roubidoux duing the winter.

JL

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:08pm PT

I have added Abstract Corner (5.11d in every book/reference I can find.)

I also changed the Right Side of the Folly to Good Book. It's weird, I always knew the route as Good Book but only one of my guides lists it that way; every other book has it as Right Side of the Folly.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 16, 2010 - 01:10pm PT

What was his very first, first ascent? Maybe that also should be included, as a sort of bookend.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:16pm PT

Mighty... Perhaps only Jim knows that... nice idea though... I will make sure to run that by him at the end of this week when I plan to close this discussion (well, close it as far as Bridwellfest '10 is concerned)

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 16, 2010 - 02:37pm PT

> What was his very first, first ascent? Maybe that also should be included, as a sort of bookend.

11/1961: No Holds Barred, w/ Larry Kilmer (Pinnacles, with aid; he went back and freed it at 5.10 in 1965)

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Feb 16, 2010 - 03:59pm PT

I remember Flak.

He made a pass at Bridwell one night and got knocked out in the dust of Camp 4.

He never forgave Jim.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 05:17pm PT

I remember doing No Holds Barred in about 1974 and being spanked...

Thanks for that Clint.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 16, 2010 - 05:56pm PT

I could show up in the valley wearing a penis gourd, a bone in my nose, and a well-armed blowgun.

Be careful - tourists might think you're a ranger.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber

Will know soon

Feb 16, 2010 - 08:45pm PT

Yeah, Mighty Hiker.....I'd give alot for anything of Bridwell's paisley. Guy not only 'sended....he did it with
Style !!! :D Joy and Peace, Lynnie

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 02:13am PT

Thanks to all of you who helped to edit the list!

The artwork is done for the BridwellFest '10 shirt and it should be available for pre-orders starting Thursday 2/18. After the event the artwork will be destroyed and no new shirts produced. This will be a truly limited edition piece and one you wish you had bought "BITD."

Thanks again!

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Feb 18, 2010 - 08:31am PT

The thing about Experimental Earth (the name came from a line in Coppola's Dracula) is that it is sqeezed in between Wind Sand & Stars and Sunlight Buttress, two of (if not THE TWO) best routes in the Kolob.

EE will therefore probably remain a dark horse and, since it was somewhat retro (nailing between clean lines), deservedly so.
But it was a memorable experience for both myself and my good friend Mark who went on to put up more with Jim on El Cap.

I suppose that Bird should be pleased that flak is envious enough of him to bother to berate him in the taco teacup, but haters are haters, and if this keeps up Chris should whack this mole just on general principles.

As for the employment history, Jim is a harder worker than me and yet has done far more to inspire the docile sheep who lack the gumption to leave their pitiful cubicles.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 10:52am PT

For those who missed it, Sewellymon is referencing a post (now disappeared) from Fogarty that pointed fingers and then ran for cover behind a bush. No matter that it is gone for it wasn't worthy anyway.

Barry Bates

Boulder climber

Smith River CA

Feb 18, 2010 - 12:05pm PT

I remember Jim making a list of the valley 5.10 routes on a sheet of paper with the abcd ratings in 71, as far as I know that was the first time anyone had broken down the rather wide 5.10 grade into a more defined rating. from what I remember of the list, the ratings have stood the test of time and have not changed much over the years. Considering how we squabble over ratings I find it remarkable that Jims first shot at breaking down the grade was so accurate.
When he did the Abstract corner in 70 he thought it was the hardest free route in the valley, which it certainly was. It's never received much credibility because of it's difficult bouldery start. I personalty don't see much difference between a boulder start and a 11d move on a sport route with the bolt at one's waist If you look at it in this way it was way ahead of its time.
Barry