Drilling on the Hot Rod?

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JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber

Chatsworth

Oct 17, 2005 - 01:31pm PT

Maybe this is a big Hoax?

Juanito

ToddSkinner

Big Wall climber

Yosemite

Oct 17, 2005 - 03:39pm PT

When you guys actually get up on the route and can intelligently discuss what I have actually done, then we'll talk. Until then it is a lot of hot air being spewed about.

I suppose using a torch to burn off the grease on City Park wasn't acceptable, huh? Too bad.

Shack

Big Wall climber

So. Cal.

Oct 17, 2005 - 03:40pm PT

What would Klaus say?

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Oct 17, 2005 - 03:54pm PT

Lambone sez,

"Hey Todd Skinner, please stop duming down hard aid climbs to your level."

Now that's funny.

shitzy

Gym climber

La Playa

Oct 17, 2005 - 04:20pm PT

Let's have everyone on this thread stand up, raise their right hand, and swear upon something they deem personally important, the following shitz:

"I have never manufactured a hold, or intentionally changed the natural features of a rock in any way to make a climb go easier or be less painfull"

Big name climbers get to go 1st.

John Vawter

Social climber

San Diego

Oct 17, 2005 - 04:31pm PT

I am no fan of Todd Skinner. But how is this different than the Nose, or the Muir? OK, one difference is that Hot Rod is much harder aid. But as Todd points out, do you know that he is placing bolts in a way that would dumb down the hard aid? If not, who cares?

But if the bolts change the nature of the aid route, that is more problematic. Should Todd have gotten permission from the FA first? I doubt that Kurt and Coz had any discussions with Chouinard and TM. Or is it fair game because long free routes are the future and take priority over aid routes?

Based on the little info I have, I tend to agree with Juanito: this route hasn't been up long enough to turn into a sport climb without permission of the FA.

Light&Fast!!!

climber

calgary

Oct 17, 2005 - 04:38pm PT

Oh my god if that really is Todd Skinner he is pretty pathetic! Fake Todd needs to die... and if that is the real Todd well, what a chump in his justification for his actions.

Klaus already gave his opinion on the last jerk to go drilling on the route. Check the route beta thingy.

Shack

Big Wall climber

So. Cal.

Oct 17, 2005 - 04:42pm PT

I hope it's a troll Mike.
Otherwise I'll have to change my name from Todd S. to something else!

billygoat

climber

Oct 17, 2005 - 05:46pm PT

When Ray Jardine went too far askew from valley ethics, there was no question about what had to be done. Ray was shown the way out of the valley, and it was made clear he wasn't going back. I can't speak entirely for JBMHR, but I have climbed Wet Denim and can tell you that the retro-bolting there was questionable in the least and unacceptable is more likely. In conversations with Rob Miller, I've learned that there is no way to climb JBMHR, add bolts, and not destroy the aide line. Rob told me that he's backed off of his free attempts on JBMHR because he didn't want to climb so hard above such marginal protection. In other words, Mr Miller is adhering to valley ethics. Now Todd (assuming you have added bolts to this line), what gives you the right to climb under a different set of ethics on a line being attempted by multiple parties who respect a previously determined standard of free climbing? I think, given your past history, you at least owe us an answer to this question. Furthermore, if you have placed these bolts, perhaps the valley community of climbers should consider this a final straw and show you the way back to Wyoming.

426

Sport climber

Wartburg, TN

Oct 17, 2005 - 06:04pm PT

dear billygoat and others,

I could not seem to find "Valley Ethics" guide on this Supertopo sight. Please send a copy of the 'revised' Valley Ethics guide to me, for I am curious what they are.

426
General Delivery
Wartburg, TN 67931

PS-Warren Harding called, sez to watch out for the VC's.

Shack

Big Wall climber

So. Cal.

Oct 17, 2005 - 06:08pm PT

I don't have an extra copy of the Valley Ethics Guide,
but please don't climb in Yosemite until you get one and read it from cover to cover.

Ditch Trad

Trad climber

Oct 17, 2005 - 06:45pm PT

Anyone got a spare copy for the bro?

I don't think so...

While we are splitting hairs, maybe we ought to ban 2nd, 3rd and so on ascents because they make the pin scars bigger, hence easier for later parties...

I'm more of a Harding man rather than Robbins fellow...

Sylistically though, I've got to go with free climbing over aid...perhaps that's the "miff" issue here for some, eh?....

426

Sport climber

Wartburg, TN

Oct 17, 2005 - 07:02pm PT

Mike-respectfully disagree with your assessment.

What did Harding say after Robbins chopped 1/3 of WEML? (Shrugs). I think that was about it.

I'll have to confirm with my copy of Downward Bound.

Light&Fast!!!

climber

calgary

Oct 17, 2005 - 07:24pm PT

Bolts, everyone has an issue with them! They love them, they hate them. So many people claim to be a trad climber and hate sport climbing. Many alpine climbers hate bolts. Most people with respect for those before them don't like added bolts. Sitting here and bitching about it doesn't do shit! You want to make a statement, go cut fixed ropes he's using, chop the bolts. DO SOMETHING!!!

I've chopped my share of bolts, I've placed my share of bolts.

JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber

Chatsworth

Oct 17, 2005 - 07:45pm PT

I have a real problem with the name of the route. Can it by changed to Buhhda built my Hot Rod?

And does the Muir have new belay bolts in the nice corner above grey. Thats weak!

Juanito