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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 10, 2005 - 01:21pm PT
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Hey Werner, did you do the 3rd ascent after Ron lead all the pitches on the 2nd ascent?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
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Oct 10, 2005 - 02:10pm PT
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Werner has pro all over the place in that photo.... handjams and clean living. Best safety net going.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Oct 10, 2005 - 02:14pm PT
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what a climb!, and Werner look cool doing it!
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Oct 10, 2005 - 08:04pm PT
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The belayer looks as though he is cowering in the corner...
Great photo..
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 10, 2005 - 08:23pm PT
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Cowering in the corner? Naw, it’s Merry. She’s hanging cool, after leading the pitch to fix a rope for Charles Cole the owner of 5.10.
Charles then jugs up with his big ass large format camera and starts doing these huge bounces out into space behind me while snapping off shots.
Roger, not the 3rd can’t remember the sequence after Kauk. Maybe it was Bachar. I did it with Dale Bard the first actual climbing time. I belayed Kauk on the second. He lead every pitch and I jumared. Ron was complaining I was jumaring to fast and he had no time to rest.
We get to the last pitch at 11:00 in the morning and Bachar rides his bike over to see where we are and he can’t find us so he assumes we bailed and failed.
He finds us at the deli later and asked why we bailed, ha ha ha
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 11, 2005 - 12:05am PT
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"Roger, not the 3rd can’t remember the sequence after Kauk. Maybe it was Bachar. I did it with Dale Bard the first actual climbing time. I belayed Kauk on the second. He lead every pitch and I jumared. Ron was complaining I was jumaring to fast and he had no time to rest."
That is even better than I thought. Jumaring behind Ron, on his all out ascent, and you have to rush him!!! Gitta up there, Ronny boy. Time's a’ wasting. Any whuse who can lead every pitch of the hardest free climb in the world, can lead it dog ass tired. Hey, come one! I am ready to jumar another pitch. Why you slowing me down, wimp.
What a great piece of history.
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briand
Trad climber
bay area
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Oct 11, 2005 - 02:14am PT
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I thought that chalkbag looked familiar. Growing up as a kid, I helped Mark with all the grunt work(ie cutting material) for his company. Still have a lot of his stuff. Taught me how to climb back in the 80's. Great guy.
How is he and his family?
His shop closed a while ago unless he just recently opened again.
brian
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Oct 11, 2005 - 12:11pm PT
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He used to make us ditty bags and stuff sacks and stuff for our scout troop in Mariposa...good stuff.
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ct
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2005 - 01:25pm PT
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What an incredible photo. Much respect to WBraun.
This thread and Lambone's comment about seeing this photo when he started climbing reminded me of another ad from around the same era. It was a Boreal ad, with the tagline: 'Free your mind, and your ass will follow.' The photo was of a climber free-soloing Big Mo in Josh, taken from above. I cut that ad out of the mag and saved it for years, but can't seem to find it anymore. Does anybody have a digital copy, or remember seeing this ad?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 11, 2005 - 02:59pm PT
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I've seen the ad and I've got the mag, somewhere.
'Free your mind, and your ass will follow.'a dyslexic take on a P-Funk line?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 15, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Anybody want to be the belayer if he pitches ... leading on static line (which breaks after the spinal cord)?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 15, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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Mungeclimber:
http://www.yelp.com/biz/tuttle-outdoor-equipment-winton
I've known Mr. Tuttle since 1983, when I moved back to town and he was partners in a bike/backpacking store on Main; then he started his own further up the street. It closed soon Castle AFB/RIP closed because the airmen were a big part of his business.
I see him at the bicycle races here, his son is usually with him. He must be around 21 by now. They live out in Atwater and his shop's in Winton. He may come up to the Oakdale Festival. I'll check that out.
He told me he climbed with DMT some, back when they was hard. DMT, I mean no disprespect. :D
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 15, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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from the favorite climbs thread:
astroman, behind wbraun. "but werner, it's 11am," i said when he finally appeared in the parking lot. i couldn't believe we were back in the village before beer thirty.
next day rostrum. it never much crossed my mind to give up my pitches at any other point in my career, but deferring to a higher power on those two occasions made for a couple of surreal sessions of carefree cruisin'.
thanks werner for putting a cherry on top of my days in the valley
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 15, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
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It's a strange world. Mark Tuttle and I just had a phone conversation.
A climber for over thiry years and owner of his own climbing shoppe, he lives @ 30 miles from Oakdale and had not heard of the Climbing Festival.
And LilaBiene, a n00bie who lives in Boston, is long-registered!
Thank you, Internet, for bringing us news and friendship and re-runs of Late Night with Jimmy Fallon.
I'll try to talk Mark into bringing some sample chalk bags if he decides he can attend the Festival.
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