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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 22, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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that's really disturbing.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Dec 22, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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Wow =:-O
Dumb question: I recall having seen 'lodestone' notations in a few Pinnacles topos. Does this indicate a big knobby jug, or naturally magnetized rock ?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
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klk, I have more vid too. I laughed out loud. :)
Rob, lodestone is just an embedded or attached cobblestone. It can be of varying size. No magnetism implied. :)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 22, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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Actually, many years ago I named the route Lodestone (on the Monolith) after the big stone you are heading for at the lip of the headwall.
I chose the name because of the magnetic definition - you are definitely attracted to that stone as you grab the tinies below it.
But since then I think many people didn't realize it meant a magnetic stone, and people have used the term to mean any large imbedded stone in the Pinnacles breccia.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 22, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Great photos and TR - more please.
John Barbella and I did Premeditated in the mid-80's. I don't have much recollection of the route other than the typical chunky, chossy, incipient cracksand thin nailing - especially on the second pitch, which I recall being pretty tricky.
I can't wait to see a TR on the rest of the route.
Good luck and have fun!!!!
Paul
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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I stand corrected, as I probably heard the 'lodestone' term from mtnyoung.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Hey Paul! Thx!
Yeah, there is a great picture of Barbella in your guidebook. It shows a lot of placements in the crack as well. I'm guessing you lead the first pitch. Did you guys ever end up doing more than the 2 pitches described in mtnyoung's book (which may have been 3 pitches as described in the 74 Richard's guide).
Really kind of looking forward to getting up there with Mucci man again.
some more pic...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Mucci getting ready to set up the rap.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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The entire formation for those that aren't familiar with it already...
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 22, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Thx! 'always thought about doing that nasty looking thing...however, Todd Vogel embellished his adventure in a way that I placed it on the back burner...waiting for part two!
 ec
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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do tell ec!!
in the meantime, here is some vid shot while trying to avoid the rock bombs that would fall regularly on Mucci.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XSa7-B9Sc4
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 22, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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looks about 5.9ish...
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Dec 22, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
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Youguysarenuts!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 22, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Forgot about that photo of Barbella, and - I guess I was wrong. It must have been the early 80's then when we did Premeditated. I thought we did the whole thing, but then again I don't recall anything beyond the first two pitches, so maybe....
That's not saying much though - sometimes I can't remember the route or moves I did an hour ago, let alone almost 30 years ago.
Have fun!!
Paul
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 22, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
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Well done, guys!!!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 22, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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Munge... so this thing is turning into a Grade V
classic TR man, lots of effort and stuff on words and stuff
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 22, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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I'm feeling slightly nauseous looking at the pictures.
ec; Todd Vogel was the only friend I had that was nutty enough to help me finish Berserkers' Route.
lars
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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Slater - Grade VI if we're lucky!!
Seriously contemplated bringing ledges out.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 22, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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I've often wondered what it'd be like to be a real climber. (Really, no sarcasm here.)
Thanks for offering up a taste.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Nate, thx for the kind words, but I too would like to know what it's like to be a real climber (in all seriousness).
Little by little I learn some more things, maybe one day.
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