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Gene
Social climber
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Dec 18, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Nice line on the buttress where sun and shade meet. Any route(s) over there?
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Dec 18, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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Great trip report and a great route. I've actually done it 3 times it's so much fun. Lots of moderate free climbing with a remote back country feel.
Greg
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 18, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Great work guys!!
I hope I've got the juice to do that approach someday...
Thanks for the great write up and pictures!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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Thanks for the TR.
What's with the pin list? I thought this route went clean.
(Although I heard that hand-placed LAs were useful).
The topo even has A1 on the All Time Finger Crack - shouldn't that one be C1?
The topo is missing the notation 5.10 R on the p10 free variation.
And it is missing the famous "leap" exit from the All Time Finger Crack.
And ... who is "Yvon Choinqrd"? :-) (I see this is partly corrected in the JPG version).
Also, the FFA by Mark and Max was in 1979, not 1980 (the Meyers guidebook has it wrong - good chance to correct this).
Which bolts did you replace?
Did you check out the alternative approach from the rim between West Quarter Dome and Half Dome? (Down the gully along the base of WQD). (Should be helpful when the river is not dry for crossing, although I'm there can be snow in places early enough).
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 18, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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Clint and others... We approached from above down the gully. Pretty simple, no way to get lost, but there are a few VERY loose surfboards in there! I rode one for a few feet and it helped to clear the bowels!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Dec 18, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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wow, cool TR. As scorpion in the Valley??? Who would have thunk it!
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Gene
Social climber
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Dec 18, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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Erik,
The following is from the 1963 AAJ. Did you guys pass through here on your climb?
gm
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Gene- I wondering the same thing. It looks featured and not that steep, usually a recipe for free climbing.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 19, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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Excellent, Thanks!
I've been staring at that face from across the canyon, so this answers a lot of questions.
I went up the one July in the early 70s. We bivied at the base and it was hot all night. But the mosquitoes were fierce, so we had to get in our sleeping bags. Got dehydrated from sweating all night. In the morning we drank all our water and went down.
Always wanted to go back.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Dec 19, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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E... you always post up great, informative trip reports!!!! I was up there three times in the late 60's/early 70's and never made it to the top due to various problems. I did the route to the top of the 7th as you have it drawn and did not do the direct looking corner on the first section. Say... as someone mentioned... the far left side of the buttress looks very doable and I expect someone who reads your post here will go up and give it a good go.... ALSO THERE IS WATER NEAR THE BIVY LEDGE IN THE SPRING SO YOU DONT NEED TO LUG IT UP FROM THE RIVER.
Thanks Bro
Tom Evans
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Dec 19, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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Sweet. Yet another added to a long list! Thanks for posting up.
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Mic
climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 19, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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What an awesome area. I'd love to get up there eventually. By the way, is that a hand saw next to your sleeping bag? Was the approach that much of a whack?
--Mike
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Gene,
> Nice line on the buttress where sun and shade meet. Any route(s) over there?
Yes - Nashville Skyline.
The shot of Tom Frost on overhanging double cracks from the chimney is p11 - see Erik's photo. Mark and Max freed it at 5.10d. The shot is tilted and the left wall is not as steep as appears in the photo.
Here's an 11 degree rotation which makes his haul line about vertical:
Here is another shot of the chimney and cracks from the end of the pitch, showing the correct angle of the main face.
And another from more directly above the chimney/arching corner.
Overlays:
green = Pegasus , red = Route of All Evil
and another thread on Pegasus / Quarter Domes:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=517220
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Dec 19, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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Eric,
I remember you and Logan talking about this while hanging out at the El Cap Bridge back in Sept. Cool to see the TR and pics and yes nice approach beta too.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
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Yo Gang,
Glad you're enjoying it.
I always bring a handsaw in case I run into a snake.....haven't had to use it yet,hahahaha.
Clint, many cheers and thanks for the corrections.(I'm Xmasing with the fam up in Seattle right now but will fix em when I get back).
Most folks(we certainly did) will need pins for the route--especially if you're not freeing 5.10. Will make the other notes. The beginning of the All Time Nailup is pretty thin for 10'. I did 2 big beak moves and then you hit the C1.
cheers
e
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 19, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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Nashville Skyline is a great line! But don't give up... just keep looking left into the shade... If the approach were easier there would be a dozen routes in there.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 20, 2009 - 12:00am PT
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Nice work, useful and inspiring TR... just what they're supposed to be!
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:47am PT
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This is a great TR. Incredible scenery and unusual views. Thanks!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 20, 2009 - 04:58am PT
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Superb report and photos, Erik - thanks very much!
Excellent work on the topo, and especially the annotated approach photos from both above and below. Way to nail those babies!
Cheers,
PTP Pete
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
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Gene emailed that the file I loaded for the pdf download is a little different from the one that i posted a pic of in the report. Ooops. I'm outta town right now but will fix that when I get home.
many cheers
e
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