Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
|
Four months can be a lifetime, if spent right.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
|
As was referenced above, some people only need 15 minutes to make an indelible impression.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
|
For those out there in contact with Larry Bruce, please ask him about the details on the FA of Hoser's Highway on GPA. What's the dealio with the name? What's the dealio with the single bolt anchors? Has he seen a topo of the route he thinks is accurate? Would he mind is somebody went up there and added a bolt to the belays?
Bruce
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
|
Hilden, That is Hoosier's Highway. (as in someone from Indiana) not Hoser, as in a sexual reference. There is also an actual highway too, "Hoosier Highway". Great first ascent party there too, Steve Shea, Larry B, Molly H, and the equally fabulous Lou Dawson back in 1974. Its in the guidebooks of course.
|
|
ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
|
Bruce,
This is what I could get.
Oh my, this was a wild route. Eric Sanford, Greg Davis, Scott Woodreff and I put up this route in the late 70's. BIG run outs with hardly any protection, 5.9
|
|
renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
|
Great to hear from our old friends , hope you are all doing well. Happy Holidays.
love, Larry&Molly Bruce
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
|
Peter,
I know about the route, Hoosiers/Hosers, my partner and I supposedly did the 2nd ascent after an article in Climbing Magazine noted that the route had repulsed all attempts (from strong teams of 'Valley Locals' nonetheless) at a repeat. The problem with the route is that after about the fourth pitch, the FA team must have started running low on bolts because all we found were single bolts, some of which had to have been belays.
It would be great if the FA team could mark the exact location of their belays on an accurate topo and then give permission to go up there and add a bolt at each single bolt belay.
Bruce
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
|
Tami- If you are ever in SLC, Barb would be the best cold call you ever made...LOL Molly and Larry have done routes all over the desert including Wind, Sand and Stars On the Mace at 5.10d or so? If it was good they were on it!
Her wonderful account of leading the Green Spur appeared in Climb, 1977.
Fortunately, that last paragraph wasn't long in being undone.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:20am PT
|
I was just thinking that someone should also write about Barb. Completely different in temperment but also so competent. I decided my first course at Outward Bound, that if I got injured, I would want Molly to run for help (no cell phones those days) and Barb to take care of me while we waited. When I found out that she had become a nurse, I wasn't at all surprised.
|
|
Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:22am PT
|
Larry -
Pretty funny with my thinking I remembered what went on that day on the G Ghost!!
Chuck Cochrane called me up and set it straight!!
Do you remember throwing me in the river with Vern?
Great times - Glad you are well.
Tom Carter
|
|
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 01:37am PT
|
Renzo!
Good to get the update. I still hobble around on skis and shake my way up the rocks. Best to your clan.
Merry Xmas!
Todd
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 03:09am PT
|
I climbed a couple of times with Molly. Great gal.
|
|
Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 09:42am PT
|
I tool a ski mountaineering course from Molly & Lou Dawson in Aspen in the winter of 1975/76. We were all in our early 20's and spending weekends out without tents; digging snow caves, watching campfires melt deep into the snow - what a time. We even notched a 14er or two over the course of 5 or 6 trips. It's a sport I practice feverously today in the Tahoe Sierra (albeit with better gear). Molly was really fun to be with. She was super strong as well as patient and kind, always happy to be out there. Glad to see she is doing well.
Dave J.
|
|
renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
|
What a blast from the past! I get pretty choked up hearing from Peter, Jeff, Jan. Thank you all for the compliments, and for the old stories.
I had never reread the old articles I wrote, but in doing so on Super Topo the dialogue sounds exactly the same as what I said at dinner last night, "Larry, how could we train this winter so that next spring in Indian Creek we could....... ". One thing is for sure, I haven't gotten any smarter. molly higgins bruce.
|
|
renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
|
Hi Bruce,
I think putting in some new anchors on Hoser's Highway is a good Idea! We don't need another 'Anchors Away' Larry Bruce
|
|
renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
|
I remember climbing New Dimensions with Peter Haan in Yosemite in 1975.
As he led the crux pitch he "rested" in an impossible stem and pointed out that he was getting a rest by placing his heel on nubbin hold, thus giving his calf a break. I use this rest all the time, and always remember him fondly.
Molly Higgins Bruce
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
|
A Big ST welcome, Molly!!! Were your ears getting a bit warm of late? Nothing but a bunch of softened nostalgics around here.
How does your Nose adventure sit in your mind these days?
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
|
awesome thread.
|
|
TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 07:05pm PT
|
I suggested to Molly that her nom de plume should be "scarfacesender". LOL
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!