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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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Taking a forty footer off Air Sweden in Indian Creek
I was totally ok just a little shooken up
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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Supposedly the origional route on Super Pin has never been repeated. 100ft of 5.10 which makes for a really big boulder.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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Gobi, ya didna clip tha chains, eh?
neat thread
Hooblie, we'll be near there next season. If you go back in let me know. I'd like to try some of the Glen Aulin stuff.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 12, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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The Vision (Scanned Slide mid-1980s)
Scavanger, Fairview (Scanned Slide late-1980s)
Table of Contents (Scanned Slide from mid-1980s)
Great White Book Photo Courtesy Bill McConachie
Dike Route
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bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Dec 12, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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Squamish, White Lighting last pitch. Full rope length, no pro the entire pitch, being a 5.9 slab, the pump is a mental one. It's one of a few pitches I will never forget. Another one being the crux pitch on Reality Chek, Yak peak. For a n00b like me, there were also many moments on Middle Cathedrals DNB that were also memorable. In my failed effort to create the direct start to Squamishes classic, Freeway, I inadvertently created the start to the free version of Cannabis wall, the same day, I retro'd in 3 additional bolts above the first 2 placed on lead, after I had freed it, to eliminate the ground fall.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 02:50am PT
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that scavenger shot is sick!!
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 12, 2009 - 03:32am PT
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caughtinside: that pitch puckered by sphincter big time
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Dec 12, 2009 - 04:30am PT
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If memory serves - the final pitch of Southern Belle (5.9?) has no points of protection . Only Schultz and Houlding have had the honor .
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Dec 12, 2009 - 09:38am PT
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In 1990, I was climbing pretty well. 5.8 was like an approach pitch to me until I ran up against the second pitch of the Free Blast.
We got to the top of P1, no problems. Day light was running low and to make time I took the whole 'Gunks Style' rack, a water bottle, and dragged two haul lines, being the large sack guy that I was that afternoon. Well, I placed our largest piece, a 2.5 Friend, about 10 feet off the belay. Then I started laybacking. That is a nice, incut edge on that crack and the going was fast and smooth. Eventually I found some face holds out on the right and mantled up and stood on the holds. Then I looked down and realized I was 50' runout and the crack was too wide for anything on the rack I was carrying. Plus, the crack edge became rounded.
At this point, I was still a cocky as$h0le telling myself that it's 'only 5.8'. After standing in that spot for quite a while I started to get scared and began my first series of shrinkage phases. We had bigger gear in the car and my buddy yelled down to my old college roommate to run back to the car and get the big cams. So she runs back to the car. After accelerating through a half dozen more shrinkage episodes while standing on those edges, I decided I needed to do something. So I looked into the crack and thought I could wedge my head in that thing. I got my left foot pasted on the side of the crack and I just rocked over and stuck my head into the thing; I had a legitimate headjam going. It was a good thing that I was able to keep some weight off with my left foot smear. I was able to then grab some chockstones in the back of the crack and I proceeded to grovel my way to the hanging belay just as my old roommate got back with the big gear.
Yep, I've got two pulsars in my sack now. And I can turn any well protected pitch into a death pitch.
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perswig
climber
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Dec 12, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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"And I can turn any well protected pitch into a death pitch."
You, too? I think of it as a gift:).
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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bump for the "sea of knobs" pitches on scavenger in TM. great photo above. did that route a few times in the 80's and hope to go back
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 12, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Speaking of Courtright Reservoir (the earlier Power Dome pics) here's a shot taken mid 90's of the Carson Kodas Arete, 5.11cR. The second bolt is right next to the thin flake a body length above my head. The clipping (drilling) stance is just above my left hand. The mental crux of the climb is rocking up onto that stance. Thankfully the real crux is just after the bolt, moving up and left to the arete proper. Best not to fall from here...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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i guess i'll surrender to fear.
as i embark upon my next spicy lead,
i will pray to jesus at the bottom,
that
way
if i fall,
i will fall up.
and when i get to the summit,
i will bow to lucifer,
and i will descend down.
down. down. to my next
gothic undoing.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Here's a view looking down from the 2nd of the two Sea of Knobs pitches. Note single bolt on what I recall is a ~85 ft pitch. Don't remember whether it was a 3/8" or 1/4" bolt back in the late 1980s when this photo was taken...probably 1/4". At one point I desperately tried to tie off one the larger feldspar knobs with no success. I don't recall any single difficult move. In fact, there are so many knobs up there that that the mental exercise of visualizing and optimizing the near infinite possibility of move sequences started overloading my circuits and I had to shut down the optimizing algorithm and just climb. Eric Collins, my partner at the time, lead the previous run out pitch with total composure and impeccable style.
Here's Eric runnin' it out on Fear No Evil, Lovers Leap
and on Stoner's Highway
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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Dresdoom in Sedona. 5.9+R, five or six pitches of heady climbing. A lot of the pro is slung holes in sandstone.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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I know its a bit of a light weight climb but...
in 1986 I did Fantasia. This was my 3rd 5.9 and I was 16 years old.
I got lost, I climbed around, I thought I was going to die, and then I didn't... My partner got scared following pitch 1 and then refused to lead any pitches.
To this day I can feel the entire experience.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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On the FA of Iron Messiah I went up and left on an easy slab with no pro for 25-30m.
Others have found a harder way that takes pro, and virtually all parties use that variation.
But on the topo I labelled my pitch as 5.4X
Trouble is; everybody who reads the topo seems to assume that the X means that there is a bolt.
Many people have told me that they used the variation because they "couldn't see the bolt."
I kind of wish that the variation didn't exist.
As for the best route name for one of my run out climbs;
Full Metal Jockstrap
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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Probably anyone who was climbing slabs in the Meadows or the Valley before routes started to be sport-bolted has led dozens of R - rated routes.
What freaked me out a little was when I got newer editions of some of my old guidebooks and saw routes that I led, that used to be rated R, that are now rated R/X. One example is Green Dragon on Glacier Point Apron, which is now rated 11.b R/X. I've led that a couple of times and did take a fall one of the times. (Clint C., I believe you were my belayer on that fall if I recall?) I did hit something on that fall and got a really nasty black and blue mark on my butt. Maybe if not for my ampley fat-padded butt I would have really gotten hurt ;).
Another one was Head Rush on Lembert Dome, which is now rated 10.a R/X, but was then rated just R. I can still distinctly remember the huge amount of adrenaline I had going thru my body on that one. That's one I would never, ever repeat!
Phyl
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 12, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
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Head Rush originally had 5 bolts, but 2 of them broke over the years. I replaced the 3 obvious bolts, and then later I was back for more replacement of nearby routes, and I happened to notice one of the broken bolts. I replaced that, and then studied the rock and found a 5th bolt. So the R/X rating is from when two bolts were missing, it's R now (assuming that icefall hasn't sheared off some of the new bolts...).
Ed - your photo shows the leader around the first bolt - you have to go sharply right (like 20 feet right) and up the dike to find the second bolt. If you went up (slightly left then back right) and plugged pro in hand-sized horizontals, that's not the original route.
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