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A Dzzl
Trad climber
Praha, Czech Republic
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:48pm PT
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I think that they didn't have proper pads when those guys climbed it. Now that they are plentiful, and you will have no problem finding pads donated to the stack in the middle of camp 4, the question is why would you?
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 03:59pm PT
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Once Steve Schneider fell off it and broke his arm/wrist? can't remember which, but I see him walking up in the parking lot holding his injured arm.
I think another person fell off it and missed the mattress and broke his ankle.
A few have fallen off onto their backs and had the sh-it/wind knocked out of them.
Ha, funny things have happened since that day Yabo "found" Midnight Lightning on cid.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 29, 2005 - 05:25pm PT
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does anybody know what's the story on the bolt hole near the start of ML?
Werner?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Sep 29, 2005 - 06:39pm PT
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What's amazing, when you think about it, is that folks are pasionatel arguing whether or not it's "right" to use a nylon rope on a 30 foot high boulder set in a nook of a National Park.
A few miles away tower 3,000 foot high rock monoliths . . .
JL
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Sep 29, 2005 - 07:03pm PT
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You are supposed to say that there's nothing to climb in the Valley but the small rocks. You know, crowd control?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 08:31pm PT
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Eddie, I think the point is that what you climb and how you climb it is up to you... as long as you don't do anything to alter an established climb...
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2005 - 08:36pm PT
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Lambone
The bolt hole? I drilled it with the hilti when Minerals wasn't looking. Yabo told me to do it in a dream. Link saw me and I ran like the wind.
As you know no one can capture the wind.
Whoooosh, and I was gone ......
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 10:15pm PT
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I think this all harkens back to the question of style. As far as I can tell, here are the two Rules with a capital R of style:
1) Thou shalt not alter the climb in any way*
2) Be honest about what you did.
*without the express written consent of Major League Baseball...er... the FA party. And really that just means bolts. Any other alterations are a no no.
After that, less is more: "Perfection is acheived, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away" - Antoine de Saint-Exupery (thanks Baba)
If you "headpoint" ML, then say it. If you toprope it and never boulder it, tell people you toproped it. People will most likely mock you when the see you doing it, with or without your knowledge, but who really cares? Do you climb to gain the approval of some dude in camp 4, or because its fun?
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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I would like to just get half way up midnight lightning. I've walking up to it and touched the first holds and felt bad for "greasing it up for the 'real' climbers." Now I don't feel so bad. If anyone wants to try to teach a V2 climber the first few moves (I hear they are not half as bad as the rest) this weekend I'd love it. That is as long as I'm not destroying the most beautiful pebble in the valley.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Sep 30, 2005 - 12:26am PT
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I'm kinda old now and after years of falling ass over tea kettle off of boulder problems (with injuries)I wish that it would've been OK to TR some of them in my day...You just go and have fun! If anyone says anything, Screw 'em!!
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Sep 30, 2005 - 10:58am PT
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Anything beats climbing down that tree.rg
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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Sep 30, 2005 - 12:14pm PT
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Oooo! Oooooo! Ooooo! Can I be in your movie BettyBlowtorch? Please?! Huh?! Can I? Can I? Please!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Sep 30, 2005 - 05:10pm PT
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What about dry-tooling Midnight Lightning? If we don't use a TR is that ok?
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Sep 30, 2005 - 07:47pm PT
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As long as you're wearing monopoints too it should be fine.
-Fear
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AKutzer
Trad climber
From Texas to Tahoe
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Style only matters when you are considering your own. As others have said above, just be honest about it, and (here's the hard part) truly do not care what others think about it.
If it was me, I would rather, personally, not TR it.
I couldn't care less how someone else does it, provided they don't mess up the climb permanently - no chipping, bolts, scars from dry tooling, etc...)
I think it may have been Croft who was quoted in one of the climbing rags as saying, "The first time you ever compare yourself to another climber, a terrible joke has been played on you..."
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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I think we should aid it, slap some heads in here and there, the bolt hold takes a yellow alien. then just hook to the top.
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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2005 - 04:12pm PT
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Burns said:
"
If you toprope it and never boulder it, tell people you toproped it. People will most likely mock you when they see you doing it, with or without your knowledge, but who really cares? Do you climb to gain the approval of some dude in camp 4, or because its fun?
"
I climb because it is fun. I don't really care (everyone does to some extent) what people think of me, but that's not my point. What is really intersting is that you think they will mock the person TR'ing it. I agree that they will. What I want to know is WHY they would mock someone. Why would they do it to their face? And why would they do it behind their back?
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Eddie
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
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And just for fun:
How many of you out there (who haven't already climbed it) would WANT to try ML on TR?
Think for a minute...
Okay, how many of you would actually TAKE the opportunity if it was there?
Think again...
Is it harder to say yes?
If it is--why?
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