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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Nov 21, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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In 1977 Kim completed a route in Little Cottonwood Canyon called Intensive Care. It was and still is one of the boldest climbs in the Wasatch. Jim Knight first started the route, a beautiful 2 pitch runnout granite slab climb. Soon afterwards he recruited Kim. The steep, flakey slab had few chickenheads to stand on to drill bolts, hence there were long runnouts. On the 2nd pitch, their friend Mark Ward was badly injured in a fall when he flipped over backwards and hit the back of his head. After an impressive rescue, Mark made it to the emergency room where he was put into intensive care.
After this, a dark cloud hung over the route. The prospects of climbing long 5.11 runnouts was daunting. Kim went up and finished the lead which ended near the top of the slab. He was wearing EB's at the time. To this day, even with all of the new sticky rubber shoes, no one has finished to the top. Everyone traverses off right, which is still scary.
Kim loved ice climbing as well. One day we were climbing some new farmed ice at Upper Bridal Veil Falls in Provo canyon. On the second pitch, a vertical, hollow pillar led to a thin smear, which led to the top. Although there was an easier alternative to the left, Kim chose the thin smear..."It looks cool". With a questionable screw in, he calmly climbed the 25' smear. Following, I noticed that the ice was thinner than it looked from below -- about an inch thick on average, and the moves were difficult.
I've been fortunate to climb a lot with Kim. Bold leads are typical. In Zion, Kim's fast aid climbing has allowed us to fix & fire all of the walls we've done. This suits Kim well as he doesn't like to bivy...the hotel in Springdale is much more comfortable! With all of the climbing he has done, he has still made time for a successful career and family life. One of Kim's joys is his son Joe, a down syndrome boy. Kim has a great family. He's funny and to the point. He has always gone out of his way to help others and be generous.
It's been a pleasure.
Brian Smoot
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 22, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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Kim loved ice climbing as well. One day we were climbing some new farmed ice at Upper Bridal Veil Falls in Provo canyon. On the second pitch, a vertical, hollow pillar led to a thin smear, which led to the top. Although there was an easier alternative to the left, Kim chose the thin smear..."It looks cool". With a questionable screw in, he calmly climbed the 25' smear. Following, I noticed that the ice was thinner than it looked from below -- about an inch thick on average, and the moves were difficult.
Probably not past tense just yet?
That was a crazy day. You and I got an early start and left a full length rope down to the base of the route, as Kim had "duties" that morning. Sure enough, he steamed up the trail, caught us, we belayed him up, and he sent that last pitch (which was frankly frightening). Then, on the way down, the kids next to us knocked a briefcase sized block of ice loose and I watched it clobber Kim square in the face. Really think it would have snuffed a lessor person. He was fairly calm about it and those guys sure felt bad. Looked like someone had shot a deer there was so much blood in the snow. Off to the ER with nary a complaint. Actually, as I recall, he was fairly cheerful... I can't find my photo I had scanned from that day, but, Kim is smilin' through all that blood...(couldn't he breath without his mouth or nose?). Yikes.
Couple of shots from up at the Castle in Idaho:
Not so typical is that he has a rope on...(!) Maybe typical is that he's clipped to the only bolt on the long route and didn't bother with any other gear...
Topping out some route. As you can see, he can follow me with his eyes closed! I rapped off, Kim downclimbed...
Been my pleasure to get to know and share a rope with RKM.
Let's get out again soon!
-Brian in SLC
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Kim has quietly gone about his buisness for years,
when other climbers have risen to the spotlight he has
been the fundamental equal to the best, maybe not the
strongest boulderer, maybe not the master of some or
other thing, but nearly in many cases, and the kind of
spirit you want to be with on rock. He was all one needed
to be, while at the same time he has managed a successful career
and family.
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