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Apocalypse Now
climber
Up the river.
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Sep 20, 2005 - 03:25pm PT
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Weenie... when you see bolts on a crack (with perfect placements) you will understand.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 20, 2005 - 03:34pm PT
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"But, my assumptions are all based on my experience learning to climb in a gym. And that experience included zero edjumacation from the gym staff/owners about ethics, bolting and the like."
I'll be sure to work bolting ethics in my next "how to belay" class.
;-)
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Sep 20, 2005 - 04:06pm PT
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Last I checked anyone who claims to own or have used a "bolt gun" can be pretty much ignored...
Drilling hard rock is expensive, slow, and a pain in the ass. And the good hardware I see placed -most- places nowadays aint cheap either.
-Fear
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James
Social climber
The Climber's Subconcious
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Sep 20, 2005 - 05:11pm PT
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My friend climbed Solitary Confinement last summer in Toulumne. If I ever have the desire to climb that route, I'd like to do it in the same style that the first ascentionist did. My friend's description of the route is enough to let me know that there are some things which you must bring yourself up to.
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Sep 20, 2005 - 05:12pm PT
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Lambone:
You failed your first test as a gym owner.
Guy walks into your gym and starts asking about rental gear (obviously doesn't know very much about climbing) and then he admits to owning a bolt gun and placing bolts indiscriminately. Instead of educating the guy on proper bolting ethics (ie talk to the locals before drilling, never drill near cracks, never drill on established routes, .....) you decide to ignore the guy and then complain about him on ST.
As a gym owner you owe the sport of climbing mote than that. You should have talked to the guy and found out more. You would probably ended up with a loyal customer and the climbing community may have ended up with an educated climber as opposed to a noobie.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 20, 2005 - 06:02pm PT
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you have a point, however it wasn't appropriote at the time. the goal was to promote the gym not refine his bolting practices during his first 5 minutes in the door. If I succedded at my test, of getting him back through the door again...then maybe I will figure out a way to polietly bring it up.
also I wan't complaining about him, just siting an example.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 20, 2005 - 06:50pm PT
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I'm psyched when people acuse me of being guilty of getting more people involved with climbing. It has allways been one of my goals in life.
of course that's easy to say here in Southern Oregon where the biggest crowd I have seen at our local crags is ONE other party!
I can definatly appreciate how people that live in more populated areas get frustrated with gyms directly contributing to the over-crowding their favorite outdoor crag.
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Robin Goodfellow
Social climber
1531 Oxford English Drive
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Sep 20, 2005 - 07:33pm PT
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A concious climber went for a snooze,
To the stone meadow with time to lose
He ignored many morons
He stared at tourons
Now the ignorant do as they choose.
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2005 - 09:54pm PT
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Last night I was just in one of those moods. This is the first time I've ever purposefully posted crap explicitly to provoke a response :)
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