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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Leo the Lionhearted! Right on Leo and Grahm. Glad I wasn't there, ha ha.
JR, sorry I missed ya on the coast. You got great weather, I hope you enjoyed the coastal life.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Slater - it was some perfect weather, too bad I was under the weather and working long days, but still enjoyed the coast. Climbed the Afternoon Nap on Saturday, my first climbing in over three months and damn did it feel good. The Big Sleep dome sees a lot of love these days.
John cruised up the 1'000 ft route, his first multi-pitch and only his forth time climbing ever. It was great to watch and a big accomplishment for him.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Back on the stone, stoked for you Just In.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Glad to see you back on the stone...hope that trend continues.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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JRs - Sorta like motocross...
Come over and I'll take you out to the channel.
And bring your fishin' pole!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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And bring your fishin' pole
Hey now, can I come? Ling-cod, halibut, stripers, and maybe salmon???
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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What break is that? moro jetty? I nearly had a wave break on me in that channel on a 25 ft boat with a 10 hp out board.
I miss SLO!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Grahm,
Thanks for the story. I’m glad too, I wasn’t there on your snowy ascent.
Today at the gym, I was recommending Afternoon Nap to someone.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Gaviota shorebreak on the way out to Cojo and Government Point (much better breaks 13 miles north!)
Nasty weather on the coast, can only imagine what it is like up on the ridge today.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Great news Justin!
Grahm your right, the Big Sleep is not obscure... saw at least 6 parties on 3 different routes the weekend before last.
The name of the first route right of Runnel Vision is Friendly Fire then Cry Me A River then The Way We Roll
How many routes do you nave on the Beaks?
Kev, glad to hear you fit in with the locals at the Leap.
Slater, John and Sue enjoyed Afternoon Nap
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Thanks Jeff, Louie, and Tom. Still not good to go, but I had to test it and it was worth it. We met Dan and Sue Mcdevitt on our way out on Saturday. They are cool people and hope they enjoyed that side of the ridge.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Thanks Jeff,
Tom, Jeremy and Justin also added some awesome new routes up there this year. Collectively I think we have over 30 new routes from 5.7 to 5.12 and from 15 meters to 3 pitches. Only one is all bolts the rest are mixed or gear only. With many being ground up. Matt Schutz added a few routes in 2007 and before that Spencers Guide only reported 6 routes out there, with the newest being in 1982. It was great to have our pick of new ones to do. The new trail was key to establishing routes there, but the approach is still around 1 hour and 20 minutes. How about you, anything new?
Pics from yesterday before it really started coming down...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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groan, too soon!
Brandon Thau had something to do with several of those on first weekend in May. I figure after a 5 mile backpack through the snow to get to the beaks, he deserves a mention. If it wasn't for his GPS we'd still be wandering around up there I suppose. He'd probably have eaten me by now though.
The "locals" took the shortcut and ditched us out of towners in the snow ;)
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Stephen McCabe - Hope you don't feel you have to defend how you guys did a route in good style! Very much appreciate the anchor update, the info, how you did the route, your conservative bolting effort, and the route itself for the adventure it preserves. Not saying I'm going to volunteer to lead it, but I know some folks who will love to. The route is not insignificant to us, on the contrary.
Do you or does anyone know about the route between Gumby and Midnight just left of Big Sleep with bolted anchor at first pitch and following the left of two black streaks to the headwall with no other fixed pro?
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Susu,
Thank you very much. Doug and I spent about a day and a half to two days there and put up The Big Sleep and Voodoo Child. Of the two, I liked Voodoo Child better. I’m sorry but those are the only ones I have climbed in the immediate vicinity and I don’t know about the route you ask about.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Oct 11, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
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everyone,
i've recently lost my job and will be climbing in SoYo until the roads are completely blocked with snow. Hit me up if you'd like to get together. It will be great to see you folks.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 12, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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Steve, We climbed The Big Sleep route and had a good time. Definitely runout the first few pitches, which made for some adventurous route exploring. Did the left crack variation at the top which was my favorite part.... as sweet to climb as it looks! Voodoo Child sounds good! Hope to try that before the snows.
Wow Matt, what a great consolation prize! We look forward to crossing paths and having some beers with ya out there.
Good chatting with a couple folks out there this wkend... Jeremy, John, Steve. Sorry we missed chatting you up too Justin.
Hey Jeff, Tiki, Mooch, Sean and the ROTW climbers... had a blast climbing and hanging by the fire that couple of weekends ago. Wish that could happen more often. O, and Jeff, ya know we love ya too!
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mctwisted
Social climber
superslacker city
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Oct 16, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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good job steve, it was great meeting you!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 16, 2011 - 03:07am PT
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I tried to get them to believe that while walking alone I was using the hexes outside of the pack to clang enough not to get shot during hunting season. Seriously, I used to know some of those hunters.
They wanted a photo of my prehistoric gear. What can I say? At least nothing broke.
Nice to meet you folks.
Here’s some even older stuff I didn’t bring, though it might not be my oldest stuff.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Awesome!
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